J. Allen

I'm trading in the banshee and have a few bolt-ons I'm taking off. I'll describe the items as accurately as possible. All items are currently on the bike, so I'll need a few days to take them off and ship them out (I work and have a little one). I'm realtively new on here, but I've been on Ebay for a while and enjoy 100% positive feedback. My user name is jasavage1116. I'll end up posting them on the Bay if there isn't any interest here, but, you guys have been a great help so I figured I'd offer it here first. I have a complete DMC 916 exhaust in very good condition, no rust, no dents (save for the intentional one from the factory for radiator hose clearance), silencer re-packed with moose racing product one month ago, includes multi-disc spark arrestor. Known issues for full disclosure: the head on one of the hex screws that fasten the spark arrestor is stripped and I scratched it (the front fascia of the spark arrestor) a little bit trying to get that stripped screw out with pliers. I didn't use it but you may and you should know about it. When I bought it, the high temp collars were no good, so I utilized the stock ones (they work fine and I'll send them along). I'll include the instructions and throw in some jets that I was running if you need them (27.5 and 30 pilots, 300 and 320 mains). For those of you in the know, this is one of the coolest exhausts ever made for the shee. They stopped making them a while back and I scoured Ebay and the HQ for a long time before I found a nice one. The exhaust note is killer and it's a great mid- to top-end pipe. Be one of a few! Looking for 300 shipped using UPS Ground. I also have a Chariot Performance one-piece billet aluminum cylinder head in anodized red. Like brand new, on bike for about a month. Includes the newer heavy duty acorn nuts and washers. No issues whatsoever. I'm sure the o-rings are fine being on the bike for so little time, but, if you wanted to play it safe you could order up a set. I think they are like 12 dollars. Included are 20 cc FAST domes. I ran these on straight VPC12 or a 50/50 mix to play it safe. Some get away with using 93 octane on 20cc domes. This was probably the best money I spent on the banshee, night and day difference. Looking for 160 shipped USPS priority mail. I also have a Chariot performance billet aluminum adjustable timing plate. Beautiful piece. Much stronger than the RS piece that many have had issues with. Known issue: I guess I didn't hit the flywheel nut hard or long enough with my impact gun because on the maiden voyage my bike died. Pushed it home to find the flywheel nut had backed out, and the woodruff key scored the inside of flywheel shaft opening in the plate. I cleaned it up with a high speed rotary tool, it doesn't affect functionality and you can't see it when mounted. Again, just want to be forthcoming. Learn from my mistake, ram the bitch on with serviceable locktite! Looking for 40 shipped using USPS priority mail. Last, I have a K&N powerlid with the drycharger outerwear. On the bike for one ride. Paid 90 dollars for it. Now, I'm not trying to take anyone for a ride here, so let me say this: If you ride in dry conditions this thing will be great. If you ride in trails with water I do not suggest this filter. I hit a puddle at speed, the filter got wet and my bike bogged. I took it off, cleaned and oiled it with the K&N recharger kit, and there it sat. I'll include the instructions and main jets that came with it (a 280 and 340 if I remember correctly). Looking for 60 dollars shipped. If there was someone that found themselves in the same position I did- wanted the best bang for the buck bolt-ons for a completely stock banshee, here's your meal ticket! I did everything at the same time and the difference from stock was unbelieveable. A night and day difference, no bullshit. If you want all four items, largely because you'd make my life easier by getting it all gone in one shot and saving me a little money with the combined shipping, I'll give you a special deal. Let's say 560 shipped (100 dollars less than the combined asking prices of the individual items for those who aren't mathematically inclined). Obviously, this option goes away if one item sells before the lot. I'll post pics in a day or two once I get my camera sorted and start getting the bike apart. My paypal address [email protected] If you want something, tell me first (so I can look for the payment), pay for it, and it's yours. I don't want to try and keep track of who called dibs first. Thanks guys.

If you do a search on "powerlid" here I think you'll find that the consensus is that whomever wrote the jetting recommendations was probably suffering from heat-stroke, drug-induced delirium, or severe mental retardation. I have no clue what the rationale for jetting carburetors differently would be, save for a V-twin where the rear cylinder might not see the same airflow as the front. Maybe someone else with more knowledge can chime in . I know the majority of the Raptor boys jet theirs differently but that I believe has something to do with the fuel rail (delivery) and the carbs serving a primary and secondary role? Anyway.... I'm not sure what your mods are, however, assuming that you're utilizing the stock 26 mm Mikuni's: I'm running DMC 916 pipes, a K&N filter, open airbox, and a coolhead with 20cc domes at about 700 feet above sea level. I have 320 mains, needle clip 4th notch [one down from the highest (leanest) setting], and 27.5 pilots. My plugs are a nice tan color. Please note that I utilized these same setting while I had the powerlid installed and they worked equally well (until it got wet). I don't think that the coolhead affects jetting too much. Each engine is a little different and you just have to play with it to get it right. Do some runs on new plugs, or chops as suggested in many topics on here. If you search jetting you'll find dozens of threads and by looking at what others with similar modifications have had success with you'll have a decent starting point. Good luck.

Just wanted to share my experience with the powerlid...it's a waste of money. If you plan to do any riding where mud and/or water are unavoidable it will cause you problems. The drycharger (supposedly water resistant silicone? impregnated outerwear) does a piss poor job of preventing water from passing through. The end result is a water logged filter through which your engine cannot draw air. It will bog and will not clean out. Trust me, I've been there and done that. Actually, running an open airbox with the standard K&N replacement filter works far better because of the shape of the filter, the water rolls off before totally soaking into the filter. Just my two cents. I wish that I'd have saved myself 90 dollars.

PM sent.

I wondered how those set-ups were. You going with something else now? I think they're going for around 1500-1600 on Ebay new.

Alright. So I'll go down one position from the leanest setting I have now. Thanks.

I understand fully, but based on their descriptions I'm just not sure what others are recommending. Well, there's only five and I know that 2 are no good. Seems to me that a bog in the midrange would correspond to not enough fuel, so I'm going to try one down (toward needle taper) from the stock position. If my novice understanding of carberetion is correct a lower clip position allows the needle to reside higher in the housing. Thus, after the throttle has been opened past 1/4 , the fuel flows past the needle. The flow of fuel past the needle is influenced by both the taper of the needle and the height of the needle. By lowering the clip I'm allowing the needle jet to be raised just a little higher and therefore should increase the amount of fuel supplied.

Nice dajogejr! It's better than the one in Clymer's, honestly.

Just so that I'm clear Inferno, are you suggest that I place the clip in the fourth position when counting from the blunted end toward the taper? I believe this would be one step richer from stock position of 3.

No, I'm at the first notch from the blunted end opposite the needle taper, or the highest as the needle resides in the valve. I believe I misspoke in saying this is the richest setting, it's in fact the leanest. But it seemed like an improvement from the stock position (3). Maybe I need to go the other way to get my midrange back!

I finally got the carb tops off, I didn't feel comfortable trying to torch them so I borrowed a bag full of clamps and pliers from my father-in-law. Finally found a combination that worked. Right tools for the job helped considerably, but, I've never seen carb tops so tight. Needless to say, they were reassembled only hand tight. Anyway, one inside I put the needle clip to the highest (richest) position, went one step down on the pilots to 27.5. Ran pretty well, like a raped ape up top. I still feel like I've lost some midrange though. Also, with the 27.5 pilots, the air screw is only one turn out from seat so I might go back to 30 pilots which seemed to idle well at approximately two to two and one half turns out. Did some runs, plugs looked good, faint light tan on the insulator and electrode after one wide open run. Rode it all day long and the insulator and electrode are a caramel color, so I think the 320 main is probably fine for this setup. Maybe two positions on the needle clip was too much? I'll probably try to move it down one tomorrow.

Thanks for the advice. I thnk that I've tried every type of pliers known to man. When you say clean them with soap and water, I assume theat you mean arond the carb caps, is that correct? I wouldn't attempt to clean inside the bellmouths right? I only ask because if I can't get them off then I'm in trouble with the water. It's really strange, the bike was completely stock and barely ridden. I don't think they've even been off. But Jesus they are on there. So, you think that I should go down one on the pilot? I do have the 27.5 jets, but, it idles well, and the air screw is two turns out from seat. I know there is some overlap between circuits, however, the pilot jet controls the mixture from 0 to 1/8 throttle, correct?

I've done some searching and I haven't found an answer. I need some advice... Yesterday I put on a K&N Filter and the Powerlid, and a DMC 916 exhaust. I for the life of me cannot get the carb tops off. I've tried various penetrating fluids and pliers to no avail. I'm starting to score the aluminum. As was previously posted, K&N recommendations for jetting the powerlid are plain silly. They supply you with 340 and 350 mains. DMC instructions say 320 or higher with an open airbox. Guy at DMC says 300. I changed the mains to a 300 and the pilots to a 30. After doing so, it idled well, revved crisp, but has no low to middle range and powerband hits late but strong as hell. Plugs looked pretty decent, maybe a little lean, although they weren't standard pulls. It was pretty late and the exhaust is fairly loud. I changed to a 320 main and it got a little better with regard to when the power comes on. Compared to stock, though, it still seems that I'm missing a lot of midrange pull. Should I richen my needle clip position, and if so, can you please tell me how the $%&* you get the carb tops off (yes I've taken the brass side locks off)? Thanks guys.

Looking for Lonestar, Laeger, or Janssen on the arms. Works, Elka on the shocks. Thanks.

MarineNYC was kind enough to talk at length about his experiences jetting the 916's. With his advice I think I have a solid starting point. Thanks Sean.

First, let me say that I know very little about carburetion. I've read the pinned topics and lots of other's questions regarding their changes and troubleshooting. I've also purchased a Clymer's manual. I plan to go slowly, and attempt to accomplish this myself. I do, however, have a few questions regarding the necessary jetting changes required to install the DMC 916 exhaust, a K&N filter, and a K&N powerlid. Aside from these proposed changes the bike is completely stock. I live in Western NY where the elevation ranges between 800 and 900 feet above sea level. Temperatures this time of year ranges between 70-90 degrees. I've been running VP 108 with a fully synthetic two stroke oil in a 24:1 mix ratio (I know most of you run 32:1 or higher, but I just figured I'd be safe, hence I used the higher octane to offset more oil in the mixture). The DMC instructions call for a 280 main while using the airbox lid with a hole cut in it, or a 320 main or higher when using an open airbox. With the power lid I figured I'd split the difference and go with a 300 main. Does this sound reasonable? I was going to buy a jet kit, but after reading some posts on here, some feel that they're a waste. I've gathered that the best plan of attack is to buy only what jets I need (well maybe a couple sizes of mains). Also, for those who have installed this combination, did you need to change the pilot jet or could you tune the pilot circuit well enough with the air screw? Lastly, in preparation for this install, I started tearing the bike down. I cannot for the life of me loosen either of the carburator caps. I don't think the person who owned the bike before me had ever taken them off. The manual states loosen but do not remove the caps while the front (engine) and rear (intake) clamps are in place, then remove clamps and carburetor. I tried this for an hour before I took the whole assembly out to try and get a better grip. Even tried some pliers with a shop rag wrapped around the cap, but I don't want to fuck it all up. I used some penetrating fluid, letting it soak in for a while, but, no dice as of late last night. Any insight you guys have for me would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

If your auction doesn't meet reserve, I'd throw you an offer.

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I may be interested in the pipes, silencers and hush kit as a package, provided they are in great shape. Also, what version hush kit? Post some pictures or email them to me, thanks!

I'd be interested in them as well if your trade falls through. Let me know.

What's a story without a picture? I know you've all seen a Banshee before, but, here's a low quality photo of mine!

Well, I wasn't going to hog the forum...I'm not an attention monger mind you, but, since you asked- So far mostly trails, some wide open some wooded. Now since I've just recently purchased it I'm still figuring out places to ride, but there is a local track that I'll likely visit occasionally. That being said, for the foreseeable future I'll pipe, jet, and put an intake on (or at least a better filter) to "awaken" her. I'm kinda sold on the Toomey's but the T5 vs. T6 thing I go back and forth on, apparently many of you here do as well. I know my personality and more than likely I will end up traveling long and far down Modification Road. I also really like the DMC 916. Although, I have no personal basis for liking it aside from the way it looks and second-hand reports of its quality. Sexy doesn't necessarily go fast though. I realize that they haven't made them in a while, the ones on the Bay are usually shitty and someone on here has a deal pending...a day late and a dollar short that's the story of my life!

Thanks for the welcoming. Got the ratio, never wanted a boost bottle, and the first thing I did when I purchased it was tear it down and clean everything up. It purrs like a baby kitten fresh from the teet. Now the TORS, I'll probably leave on until (if) I go to a larger carb. Aside from aesthetics and making things a little clumsy, I don't mind it. The task I have in front of me is sorting out the majority opinion on the modifications I would like to make! I've been reading for hours already!

Well, I've recently acquired the iconic banshee and in my endless "googling" I've stumbled across Banshee HQ several times. I thought it might be wise to register and here we are... Now usually I'd just lurk, soaking up information or opinions or some combination thereof, but, this time I've decided to break form and introduce myself. So, hello. Glad to be here. Seems like a wonderful site...lots of stupid questions to follow [but not before I've attempted (at least half-heartedly) to use the search function.