SnowBigDeal

Thanks for the feedback so far. Looks like a new port job may be in line. Any comments from anyone about my jetting? I figure next time I'm out there I'll go down 1 step. It felt pretty strong at where I had it, but I think I may be able to go 1 step leaner. I run a mix; 1/3 91 premium and 2/3 111 Race Fuel. Premixed at 40:1 with Klotz Super Techniplate. He was running a 30hp shot of Noss.

I wouldn't have expected a raptor on Noss to beat me up Sand Mountain, Little Sahara, UT. Elevation ~5,000 feet. I may be off on my jetting, does anyone have a recommendation for my jets? Or is it expected that a 700 raptor on Noss would beat me? Here's my setup: Trinity 420cc Big Bore 17cc Trinity Stave IV Head Trinity Pro MX Port/Polish CPI In-Frame Pipes 35mm Keihin PWK Carbs. 148 main jet, CEL Needle, Middle Clip Stock Gearing Here's the video: I'm not really a fan of posting up when I get beat, but I don't like to get beat so I gotta figure out what to change.

I placed an order on 6/13/08 from ridegear.com. I haven't received any shipping confirmation or anything from them as of 6/23/08 . I try to call and they don't answer their phones, I send them emails and I get no response. Anyone else have problems with these guys? This will definitely be the last time I order from them and I would not recommend them to anyone. I'm usually not one to post these kind of items on a forum, but I've tried to get in contact with them with no luck. I just don't want anyone else wasting their time/money as I have.

You have to call him to order. Kindof a pain, but he's a good guy to work with. I just ordered the easy springs for my 35mm PWK's from Jeff. The diameter of the spring is a little smaller and I'm having a hard time getting them to fit/act right for me.

it looks like you have the amp link; which is different than stock rollers. With the amp link there are two rollers that look like sprockets. In your picture it looks like you are missing the top roller. With the amp link, the chain goes on top of the top sprocket/roller and below the bottom sprocket/roller. I just lost the top roller on my amp link, didn't think it was worth the money for a new amp link roller, so I just took them both off and went back to the stock rollers (just the bottom roller is all I'm using).

OK, not that anyone really cares, but I thought I would give an update. I kept coming back to the steering stop on the frame, it was stopping the steering stem, but just not soon enough. A big hammer and a little love bent the stopper a little closer to the steering stem and that seemed to have done the trick. I'll know for sure once I get it back on the sand. Thanks everyone for your help.

Couldn't see the pic. I'll have to monkey some more with my tie rods and take a pic or two. I'm starting to lean toward the cause being the tie rod ends, but I'm not convinced that new ends will fix the problem yet. It has happened several times when turning right, but only once when turning left. I can duplicate the problem though on either side with it in the garage. If I turn the wheel left or right and push on the tire a little, it will "give in" and go all the way to the A-Arm. I'll see if I can take a couple pics. I'm stumped and don't want to start buying parts just to replace them to see if that will make it better.

Ya, kinda local and kinda loco. I live in Denver area (Thornton) but I'm from UT and am there quite often. I ride Little Sahara more than I ride anything else. This past weekend I was up at Walden for the first time. Ok, so I check the steering stop at the bottom of the steering stem. It seems to be stopping just fine and isn't bent. I did notice on the steering stem where the tie-rods connect that between the two tie rods connects there is a slight arch, is this normal? Also, when I adjust the tie rods out a ways and make my shee "pigeon toed" it fixes the problem, but that isn't a fix I'm willing to live with. How much flex should the rubber ends have on the tie rods? They seem to flex out a bit when it seems the tie rod should stop. Thanks for all the help so far. Anything else?

Riding the sand dunes this weekend, made a sharp turn to the right, and my right-front tire turned almost 90 degrees and the only thing stopping it from turning more was the inside of the tire wall hitting the A-Arm. My tires started acting more like snow plows; just about put me over the handle bars. My first thought is the the tie-rod is too short. The bushings that connect on the end of tie rod seem to look okay, but then I'm not an expert on tie rods by any means. Any help is appreciated!

Anyone going to be at Walden this weekend? I'll be up there for the first time. I've only ridden at Little Sahara, UT (ride there a lot). I'll be up there with some buddies who have never been there before either. Looking for someone to show us the good spots. Is there much dragging there? Prolly nothing like racing up the face at Little Sahara, but is there anything similar? What kind of riding can I expect?

I'm running 150 mains on my 35mm KEIHIN PWK's at 5500' elevation now. I'll be riding at 8500' elevation next weekend. Question is, how much leaner would you go when going from 5500 to 8500. I just want to be close, not exact. I won't be riding often at 8500, so I don't want to spend a ton of time fine tuning. I was thinking of going down to a 145 main, but don't know if that will be too much or not.

Not trying to hijack the thread, but question regarding the Dyna FS. I originally bought a timing plate but have since put it back to 0 (Stock) and now have the Dyna FS that has not reprogrammed. My current setup is as follows: 421cc trinity with Pro MX port/polish, 17cc domes, V-Force, 35mm Keihin PWK, CPI inframes. Here is my question: In your opinion am I better getting rid of the Dyna FS and going back to a 4 degree advance timing using my timing plate or will I be better off using the Dyna FS? From the DYNA FS timing curves graph I have, it appears that the most advance the Dyna FS gets over stock is about 3.5 degrees, which is on Curve 3. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Anyone have a Thumb throttle, throttle cable, and grip(s) that will work with the 35mm KEIHIN PWK carbs? Let me know what you have and how much shipped to zip 80241. Thanks!

Climbing hills with the twist throttle just isn't my idea of fun. I currently have the KEIHIN 35mm pwk carbs. What all do I need to go from twist to thumb? Do I just need a new cable and the thumb controller? Where is the best place to buy these?

X2.