luv2ride

Alright here's the deal. I've been through everything with a fine tooth comb. It comes down to plugs. Been using NGK BR8ES after riding for more than 15-20 minutesit won't restart - plugs are fouled out. They're totally clean, no oil residue, no nothing. Any ideas for a plug that won't foul out? Secondly why? Why is this happening? Fuel perhaps?

Anyone ever run into this issue? New plugs works for the most part. I'm just trying to chase it down. I don't know what it is or where it's coming from. Spark looks weak after running for a while but will push start no problem. It's frustrating. Any ideas would be awesome. When it does kick start it always fires on the 2nd kick. Carbs are clean, idles perfectly runs great.

Ha... You guys crack me up. Of course I don't have a machine shop in my garage. Would be nice though wouldn't it. What I meant about running it till it blows up = well hopefully that doesn't happen but if it does I'll address it at that point. I've had banshees now, well since they first came out. For me I jetted & piped it. That was always fast a enough for me. Always ate up the 4-strokes. I've just never had a motor like this, hence the questions It seems apparent no one likes Trinitys work. While I have yet to have a problem I hope it stays that way. So for now I'm gonna run it and run it hard for a while. See what happens. Again, thanks for all the suggestions and information regarding Trinity. Fired off an email about the heads this morning. See what he comes back with. Installed a new set of BPR8ES fired right up and ran well. Now idles after adjusting set screws. Why the hell does Kiehn run plastic idle screws? This just seems idiotic if you ask me.

Haha! I think I have a set of 8's if anything I'll redo it myself. Run er till she blows up then fix it. Right now it's working and running well I might add. Need to get out and thrash it a bit now that it starts right up! Makes things much easier.

There were BPR7ES in it. Got rid of the resistor part although I did buy an extra set. Doug Shaw was then person who set this up out of Indiana. As noted I'm an old 2 stroke guy. I know the things to listen for and check. Just need to get out and ride it a bit and check plugs etc. What plug should I be running? 8's? I have to check the domes. Not sure what they are it where there from. I can certainly ask Doug. He's a great guy. Now if only I didn't live smack dab in the middle of the city.

Well what a pleasant surprise. New BR7ES plugs and she fired right up the 2nd kick. I must be challenged or something. Never had plugs do that before. Ah... 2-stroke madness struck again. I'll take it though. Need to adjust idle and should probably sync the carbs. Anyone have a suggestion for that? Don't have a carb sync tool and the crossover pipe doesn't exist. Sure I need a sync gauge but if there is anything else I can do that would rock. Also are there any different plugs I should be using? Something a bit more durable or better performance related? Now for fuel, if I recall I'm mixing 50:1 using golden spectro. Is that enough? Or should I add more oil per gallon? I'm sure this has been answered and I'll have a look bit thought I would ask considering the motor that's in this thing. Adrenaline - it's addicting

Brap... Thanks I'll try that. Yes I do have a service manual. Checked compression. 120 each cylinder after 10 kicks per side. That's certainly not bad and shouldn't be causing the problem. I'll chase down the electrical issue and perhaps take the carbs out one more time just to make sure I didn't miss something when I cleaned them the 1st time. Installing new plugs as well. Might be worth checking the reeds? If it had an air leak it would be running lean when it does run. Spark plugs indicate that's not the issue. Thanks again for all the help! I'm in Wisconsin. 1987 Banshee 421 cheeter 1986 Honda 250R 2006 CVO Harley Davidson Fatboy 2009 Suzuki GSXR 1100 1974 Kawaski H2 500 Triple

I had a strange feeling it may be compression related. I'm hoping that's not the case. Have a few errands to run this morning and will check when I return. If I recall correctly, again I'm old, 100 and above was thought to be ok? 125 would be wonderful however. This thing sat for many years. The guy I bought it from, actually traded my 4-poke was very anal about everything. Trusted him, he's been very helpful in regards to any questions I've had. I did ask him about the kick start problem - well he never answered that one, had to go back and look. It's been sitting this summer as I just haven't had the time to look at it. Now is the time. Got a week off, might as well get er done. I never really heard bad things about Trinity. Interesting information. I'll keep ya posted. Cheers 1987 Banshee 421 cheeter 1986 Honda 250R 2006 CVO Harley Davidson Fatboy 2009 Suzuki GSXR 1100 1974 Kawaski H2 500 Triple

Fuel appears to be fine. Little worried about spark, for some reason it seems more white instead of blue. Picked up a new set of plugs this evening, i'll install them tomorrow along with a compression test. Does anyone know what it should be +100 per cylinder? Then to look at jets. I should've noted them when I took them out and cleaned em. Age i tell ya! It doesn't seem fuel related, seems to be enough fuel but the plugs weren't soaked after I kicked it at least 10 times. One would think more fuel would be on the plugs at that point.

Alright guys need some help. This old man (48) has been a rider many a year and never lost site of 2-stroke power and eventually went back (couldn't stand my 4-stroke anymore, although it was nice not having to carry oil) So here's what I picked up. 421cc Trinity Racing Power Valved Cheetah (not a cub) Full Race Tunnel Ported 5mm Long Rod Hot Rod Crank 250R V-Force 3 Reeds 35mm Keihin Carbs Trinity Racing Lightening Fast Ignition (fully indexable +/- 5 degrees) Trans Gearing is Stock ( except the star indexer, which I modified for smooth gear to gear shifting & made it easier to find neutral) Top End was rebuilt last year. Drive Line Clutch last winter w/ Direct Connect Lock-up Clutch CPI Inframe Pipes (small bore setup) RPM Dominator +/- 2" Rear Axle & hubs Lonestar +4" Swingarm This was from the person I purchased it from. It only runs high octane fuel (110 or above if I recall) I've cleaned the carbs (done this a million times) the jets were clogged a bit but not to bad, nothing that would prevent it from running. I thought for sure that was it. For the life of me I can't get this sucker to kick start. No matter what I do, choke on both carbs, choke on 1 carb, no choke etc... Plugs are wet so I know its not fuel, I'm starting to lean towards ignition. I'm not that familiar with the Trinity stuff, need to do some reading, although when I tested for spark it was there. My old Kawi triples were a bitch to start when compression was low, haven't checked that yet & to be honest I'm not sure where it should be. When the thing is running it scares the living daylight outta me. A problem when I want to run out for a quick jaunt and no one is there to help me. Even after its warm its still hard to kick start. I've been successful once I think. Just never ride it alone in case it decides to die and I can't get it started again. I just hop on my 86 250r to play. If anyone has an idea I would be very grateful! Pat

Am I missing something (probably) where would one find the led lights Matt from SCSS has? Thanks for the battery link, very helpful. Now my last question, anyone do anything for brake lights??

PIcked up a drag 421 cheetah banshee over the weekend. There are 3 wires on the entire machine to run the ignition. Nothing for headlights/taillight. Its still able to be trail ridden for the most part except I need to get some lights on it. Been searching for some battery mods like this, havent found any. I want the lights to work strictly off the battery. I can charge it when I'm done riding and turn the lights off when not needed. Wiring isnt an issue. I'll handle that. Anyone have any recommendations? Thanks

1. If its white smoke its condensation plain and simple. 2. If its truly a crank seal there is no way thats going to blow white smoke unless water is in it. 3. Its either a bad head gasket or something cylinder related. Water/anti-freeze is getting in the combustion chamber, probably past the rings and into the crankcase... Start with the heads, they are easy enough to remove. When draining the coolant chk for oil mixed in. Good Luck

Ok, call me crazy but I'm running 250 mains with 27.5 pilots. Stock air filter and stock exhaust. This thing screams. Other than that its all stock. To me it seems Yamaha purposely under jets em

How do the plugs look? Stock pilots are 25's and yes they should have the number on them. I believe stock mains are 200's but not entirely sure off the top of my head. If low end sucks check the needles (middle clip) make sure the pilots arent clogged and adjust the air mixture screws as such Turn the air screw all the way in, just until it's lightly seated, then set it 1.5-turns out Slowly turn the air screw in, then out, until you find the fastest idle If the air screw is less than 1-turn from Closed, it needs a larger pilot jet If the air screw is more than 2.5-turns from Closed, it needs a smaller pilot jet Once you have determined and installed the correct pilot jet and tuned the air screw for the fastest idle Set the idle back down and ride the bike, using Closed to 1/4 throttle positions Turn the air screw slightly (1/8 of a turn) in either direction until you find the point that gives you the best response when cracking the throttle open Cheers

So whats it going to take?

I'd do 80 shipped on the nerfs.

Find out what works and the bad will hit ya right in the face. It takes a couple things to make a motor run right? Both fuel and spark, without those 2 things aint nothing gonna happen. Check for spark by pullin one of the plugs and lay it next to a piece of metal like the cylinder and kick it over, does it have spark? If so go on to fuel. Trace everything find out what works until you find the non-working part/issue and go from there. It's like a big chain all the links need to be connected. You may want to check compression as well. Good luck

This is the cleanest machine you will find for an 03. I'm in Milwaukee and have to sell. Been adult ridden since it was new. The only mods are pipes and 260 mains to match (FMF Recommendation) and a UNI-Filter. Other than that its all stock. Yes, T.O.R.S is still fully functional. I have all the paperwork/manuals & jetting from when it was new. Open to trades. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/rvs/694912609.html

30 shipped to 53027 if you still have it? I can use Paypal

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