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cjcrete

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Posts posted by cjcrete

  1. -3 chrome fireball swingarm

    in For Sale - Parts & Accessories

    Posted

    Selling a like new custom fireball -3 no-link round house style swingarm. (Must use longer shock) no-link makes a huge difference!!! This swing arm is for mx and flattrack applications, where extreme traction is needed. Chrome is in beautiful shape and bearings are like new. Only a few rides on them. Can't load pics on here. See ebay item number 361381807540 for pics. 300 bucks plus the ride. Thanks

  3. Pro TT/Flattrack Roller for sale Best of everthing

    in For Sale - Parts & Accessories

    Posted

    This is the Green and Pink Banshee on the HQ Home page.

     

    Getting out of racing and parting out my pro level flattrack / tt racing banshee. No motor! I have years and years of banshee parts accumulation. this bike has all the best parts money can buy! and all like new. oem lightned yamaha frame. roll design long travel lobo front end, custom axis remote reservoir shocks all around w/ rebound adj. lonestar rear axle and all aluminum light weight components. incl wheel hubs,sprocket hub, brake hub nut, and stay. chrome lonestar steering stem, chrome duncan bumper. polished front brake master and lever, gold tag t2 fat bars, ac racing pro nerfs,high flow aluminum radiator, green fullbore race plastics, 3 new chrome no link swingarms minus 1,2 and 3 lengths,rath racing swaybar, all brakes with galfer rotors and pads. stainless braided brakelines, spindles,ac rear grab bar, and much more. email with what u need and I will give u a price. All parts like new. Please no beaters! I know what these parts are worth and in no rush to sell.If you want to buy give me a shout thanks!

    update.

     

    fullbores sold

     

    ac nerfs sold

     

    bars sold

     

    swaybar sold

     

    thanks peeps!!

  16. Pro TT/Flattrack Roller for sale Best of everthing

    in For Sale - Parts & Accessories

    Posted

    This is the Green and Pink Banshee on the HQ Home page.

     

    Getting out of racing and parting out my pro level flattrack / tt racing banshee. No motor! I have years and years of banshee parts accumulation. this bike has all the best parts money can buy! and all like new. oem lightned yamaha frame. roll design long travel lobo front end, custom axis remote reservoir shocks all around w/ rebound adj. lonestar rear axle and all aluminum light weight components. incl wheel hubs,sprocket hub, brake hub nut, and stay. chrome lonestar steering stem, chrome duncan bumper. polished front brake master and lever, gold tag t2 fat bars, ac racing pro nerfs,high flow aluminum radiator, green fullbore race plastics, 3 new chrome no link swingarms minus 1,2 and 3 lengths,rath racing swaybar, all brakes with galfer rotors and pads. stainless braided brakelines, spindles,ac rear grab bar, and much more. email with what u need and I will give u a price. All parts like new. Please no beaters! I know what these parts are worth and in no rush to sell.If you want to buy give me a shout thanks!

     

  17. Need pipes for serval dyno testing

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    I have a 10mil serval running shearer sb in frames 39pwks 22cc domes 7deg timing and race fuel it is a monster in low to mid rpm but does not rev to the moon compared to a cub.. Off pipe it had a shit load of power and comes on hard has a decent hit "which I don't really like".

     

    On the pavement it will blow tires off very easy even off pipe in the 1st 3 gears I would say I'm 330lbs and it has a 8in swinger thou.

     

    I rode my buddy's 492 cheetah and my serval has more real low in the rpm range but the cheetah had less hit and way more topend .

     

    But his is a 4mil where mine is a 10mil

     

    Hope you find a setup that works for you

     

    Nice set up lms! I'm sure our setups are very similar. These servals do run hard down low. Ive always ran my 7 mill bikes to the max with the best parts and the right builders and they run very well. I try many combos to suit my needs. THese servals are fairly new and i believe there is alot to be tinkered with. Just funny to me that these servals are pulling so much harder down low than the cheetah's I dont care what my motor does at 10.5k!!!!!! You will never win a pro level shorttrack race with a 9-11k motor!

  18. Need pipes for serval dyno testing

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Hey I am a flat track ice racer out of Michigan so I know what you are after. I definitely think there are great advantages to the PV motors but as you mentioned they still seem to take a while to really come alive. Big Red has a nice motor but it is not like those PV's actually create more bottom end on that particular set up, they more or less make the abrupt delivery of the power become smoother which is nice out of the turn on blue groove clay or powdery topped ice tracks.

     

    I really think that the more research I do that a properly set up big serval is the ticket. I am seeing guys doing things with them to get more front side curve then an equally sized cheetah will produce with only a slight sacrifice to the top end. And in our kind of racing covering ground faster out of the turn means being first in to the next turn. Hence you wanting the roll on power. On that note, I really don't think you will find any pipe to get you going any earlier then the Pro Circuits will. However those pipes will look good on a dyno, yet in the real world they will become totally heat saturated and not transfer the heat nearly enough to let your big serval do its thing. A 7mm super serval is a pretty big motor and I am designing my new set up around the same motor maybe even a 10mm.

     

    This is where I ask exactly what your set up is? I know you don't wanna hear it but under true oval race conditions you are gonna need a big inframe pipe. With just a little porting you can have it designed to come on smoother and even earlier. There are a handful of builders doing it. But do your research and make sure if you do go that route that they have built that style of motor and actually raced it. Not just sent a racer a dune port(HJR, FAST).

     

    Then comes in to play the proper domes, with a bigger in frame you should be using compression and race gas or even alky if you are a warm weather racer. These servals seem to really do well around 165psi cranking. Then you can throw timing at it. With he better fuel the motor will handle it and resist detonation. Start around 7 degrees and work from there. Back when guys out in the north west were milling cubs down to create serval type cylinders, they were throwing as much as 10 degrees at them so it can be done. Don't be a pussy with the fuel, you spent all that money on the motor don't be cheap now!

     

    Next, learn to gear that thing! That is a totally different motor combo then what most guys are running for our style of racing. So duners and drag racers can only make UNEDUCATED guesses. You will have to ride the thing and really figure it out. I don't know your experience, but I've been ice racing since my teen years and I have found that grabbing the brake is a momentum and RPM KILLER! A motor that size should have a lock up and if you give it the compression you should be able to take advantage of engine braking by gearing it so that as you approach the turn at WOT all you need to do is literally yank the clutch drop ONE gear let the clutch go and let the bike do its thing and set up. IE. as soon as you let the clutch out the bike should slow a touch and begin to pitch sideways all the while staying on the pipe. As soon as the bike finishes pitching, full throttle that bitch! Come off the apex and grab your gear maybe two but if it is two you are on a bigger track and might need to gear differently.

     

    If you were willing to read what I said, I have a set of Original Rockets you could play with on the Dyno. You pay the freight both ways and I must have a deposit or copy of your info, something...... You can play with them for a week and then I need to get back to testing.

    If you think the Shearer pipes aren't doing it for you these might. Like I said, you might not see it on a short run on a dyno, but once you are hot lapping that thing it is a total different ball game. We are litterally drag racing these things twice a lap with 3/4-full throttle bursts in between. So a pro circuit on your bigger bike may not play to well after 4-5 laps. My bike is an 80hp set up but probably makes a few less on the rockets but it seems to make more usable power on them then the shearers with my Passion 12 port/4mil short track motor.

    If you like them I know a couple fellas you can get a set from. You might be surprised. Loco took a 4mm serval with rockets and won a hill climbing event, so they have some grunt.

    PM me and let me know. Maybe get me a contact number? Brett

     

    Sent u a pm Bret!

  20. Need pipes for serval dyno testing

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    if your looking for that specific of a set up... the only route to go is a PV cheetah... go look up Bigreds cheetah... if i remember right it was around 58 TQ and 90ish HP. 4mil 78bore (if i remember right) you want TQ smooth deliver and off / on pipe friendlyness... get a proper set up PV cheetah and never look back. You gotta pay to play

     

     

    ive done more reaserch into cheetah's and kicked a few tires flat shopping for a set up... in the long run... a proper running PV cheetah is a TT racers dream.... the key is propr set up... there are very few properly running cheetahs out there. For starters the trick is not to get a bolt on set up from trinity

     

    your looking for something so specific that the serval will never really accomplish what you exactly want fully.

     

    budget wise sure serval is awesome after some porting and work but a pv cheetah will put you over that bar and surpass your expectations the people that got proper running ones can vouche for that.

     

     

     

    Thanks for the input, still not why i posted this thread but........... i value your input, unlike some. I did look back at reds dyno numbers on that pv cheetah. 55tq/109hp Great numbers, But the only problem was it took till 9500 to make that 55tq and was only making 35tq @7500. were the serval is making 50tq @7500 and holding it to 47 @9500 More usable torque cuve for my liking.

  22. Need pipes for serval dyno testing

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Comparing 4k to 6.5k,,,yea. But i see many engines that come on at 5500. now we are back at only a 1500 RPM difference. A 4,7,10mm Serval is FAR,FAR from "pipey". Blip the throttle at almost any REASONABLE rpm, and BOOM, you are in the power. ,,,Afterall we are talking about engines that IDLE at about 1500 rpm..

     

    Im wondering if what you are trying to explain is an engine with good TQ backup and roll-on power without a pipey delivery? I mean, an engine that comes on good at say 5500 RPM and pulls to 10,500 RPM should suit a shorter track or a longer one. Yea? How wide of a spread of power do ya need?

     

    Good Tq backup is a must. This is why I started this thread. I want to try a few pipes that will not fall off the pipe like the shearers do. The ability to (blip) and its right there. I've had all this with my 7mil stock cylinder. 84/52 are great numbers but I just need that motor to wake up without the off pipe lag.

  24. Need pipes for serval dyno testing

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Why does it have to roll on at 4k? Whats wrong with 5500-6000? Cant you gear for your power to be ready for you @ 5500? Seems like you would want a less brutal "hit" in that application,but what difference will 1500 RPM make ( difference between 4k & 5.5k)

     

    Very simple. A motor that starts making power at 6500 is worthless for a short track motor! talk about a peaky motor. A short track can be anywhere between an 1/8 mi to 1/3 mi track. (very small) in a perfect world if a banshee got the whole shot every time and the track was from Ny to Cali your motor could start making power at 9k and kick ass. Just hope you don't have slower traffic in front of you in a full sideways drift at 60 as you have to let off and grab a handfull of brake your peaky motor falls on its face and you will be in last before you know it!. If you see the actual difference in time over a dyno run from a motor that comes on power from 4 to 6500k it would shock you. Long enough for you to go from 1st to 4th! Most people will never get it until they have been competitive in our sport. The more you gear down for high rpm the slower you are!

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