mopar1rules
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Posts posted by mopar1rules
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Are you using a trinity head? If so the problem lies in the squish band angle being negative to the piston crown angle. I had to remachine a set of trinity domes for a guy locally. Trinity sucks!!
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Yeah +4 timing seems to works best with stock head and lower comp ratio. Once you start improving head dome profile and increasing comp ratio, then stock "0" timing seems the best. The +4 helps low end but you will notice your top end suffer some.
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This ain't the first time i heard jeff at FAST give a setup that he said was suppose to be pump gas worthy when it really ain't. That squish is far too tight for pump gas and you can't use your comp tester to dictate what octane of fuel to run. You go off of comp ratio and not a cranking psi reading from a gauge. I had to machine 22cc domes to be in 110 octane fuel range, for my 64.5mm bore 4 mill build. There is no way unmachined 22cc domes will work on pump gas in a 4 mill build. Adding another base gasket will help the squish issue and not jack with the port timings enough to notice by seat of the pants.
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What kinda port job done on the 4mil cylinders? Do you know any specs?
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Someone likes math and making sure their Texas Instruments scientific calculator still works. Lol.
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Still have 19cc and 22cc domes available. Someone needs more domes.
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I have never used the BiMotion software. The TSR software is the universally accepted standard, but sucks now because Tom is no longer handling everything. I would like to get my hands on a copy at some point in time to do some comparing. If I remember correctly the TSR software also has a recommended octane starting point based off inputted figures and dome profile, right? The burette has its issues also with fluid sometimes not getting into every crack and crevice, along with people getting carried away when applying the grease seal. I think the best way to figure all of this would be FPV the dome with a spark plug, then account for other volumes by software/calculation to arrive at a compression value. Then use software of choice to determine the MSV of the entire package... Evan
I hear ya about Tom retired and not supporting his software any longer. Yes TSR gives octane estimates, but I'm 100% sure its based off of the UCCR and not dome shape. I don't recall the octane requirement change when I played with the head design package. I only notice the octane requirement change when I play wih the compress program. You don't have Bi-Motion? Your picture looks just like Bi-Motion. What program do you have then? Yeah I hear ya about people possibly getting carried away with the sealing grease. I give only enough for the head and gasket to seal and no oozing goes on. IMO I do it very accurately. Everyone has there own way I guess. I just never had the cc volume program answer equal what my actual measured amount. I don't know if the creator of the software has his formulas round to high up or whatever and that's where my differences come from, but I just continue to measure with the burette and SOMETIMES use the software to get me in the ballpark.
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All these magical, mysterious, cranks that no one has a clue about. I would stick with real name brand Hot Rods crank. How much money are you going to save going no name vs Hot Rods? Then ask your self is saving that dollar amount worth having to possibly buy a new set of cases, another crank, cylinders, and pistons later on down the road if it fails.
Exactly!
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Question for the original poster, how do you like that BiMotion software? I have and use TSR and like it. I never found the computer calculations of cc volume to ever be what the actual cc volume is that i measure with my burette filled with kerosene. I just do it the trusty burette way and know the actual. Some the calculations on paper or in theory, don't quite seem to equal what the real world measurements are.
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Got the payment. 17cc domes sold. The 19cc and 22cc domes are still available.
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You want the 17cc domes? Then send $35 as a "gift" to:
mopar_rules1@hotmail.com
I will need your mailing address.
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Pics sent
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I will send pics tonight when i get home.
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I forgot to add the price.....$35 shipped per pair.
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I have 3 used sets of pro-design domes. 17cc, 19cc, and 22cc. One of the 22cc domes is brand new and there are 2 uses ones. One is beat up from a broken ring and the other is kinda dinged up by the o-ring groove from being dropped. I have pics of domes for those interested. All domes are for near stock bore and stock stroke.
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i'd love to see the "design differences" in all these diff domes. i have seen a TON of differt builders domes come through here and almost all of them were the same basic shape.
had a few that came through that were similar to GP designs i have seen in the 80's most just had differnt width squish bands. some were 8mm and went up to around 9 or 10 all the PD domes are in the 11-12mm wide range ( to damn wide in my opinion)
i'm playing with ways to stimulate turbulence and control hot spots...
its fun!
I agree that it seems pro-design domes have a really wide squish band. It makes for a higher MSV and require less ignition timing advance. I prefer an average band width and nothing really over 60% SAR. Pro-design has some that I thought I remember being around 70%-72% SAR. That's wide!
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I've found that by using a not so aggressive cutter and by tiping the handle a certain way, takes away 95% of the chatter that can come from using the sometimes tricky CC specialties 90* 1MC unit. I also have the non reversabile TMX 1/3hp motor and its a torquey unit for sure! Love the quality tools. I used a 90* blue point air grinder for a few years, but found it to have zero torque and you need to run it wide open to have some power and then it grabs and chatters around. It sucks!
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Sounds like whoever cut your domes, has the squish band angle NEGATIVE to the piston crown angle, instead of POSITIVE. Trinity domes are notorious for this also, as well as some Pro-Design domes.
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Thats a custom forged Wiseco 83mm's. I didn't do the cutting sir.
I see. So I wonder why wiseco cut such a big window? They should have known better??
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But I can see from your pic that you had a forged wiseco and it cracked, but you have little "meat" left there on that piston. Why did you go so wide on that intake port?
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I had the piston in my 400 lightened/ported and it cracked.
Just something to think about before anyone gets too crazy with a dremal.
Its more prone for a lightened/ported cast piston to crack, then a forged one. Something to think about I guess.
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Will get pic up tomorrow . Not a stock rod because has K in circle..
Rods with a "K" and a circle around it, are I believe made by KingRod in Taiwan. Andy from M&M posted some info about them way back.
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I have a pro design head and have been fighting a leak problem myself. It likes to leak out of the head studs. New o-rings don't fix it either. IMO the head design is the problem. The head shell should be 1 piece instead of 2 pieces and it should use a stock head gasket instead if o-rings, so the bastard doesn't leak. I fixed the problem by throwing away the pro-design.......I mean poor-design head and machining a stock head and using that. A friend of mine tested between a stock head and pro-design head and the pro-design only dropped coolant temp by 2deg. Not enough to justify any benefit. I understand your head is a Ada head and mine is a pro-design, but I would remedy the situation with the use of a stock machined head.
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The intake windows in the piston skirt aren't what you get concerned about, its the piston crown edge that dictates the port timing of the ports in the cylinder. The blaster piston has a different dimension, between the piston crown edge to the wristpin bore, versus the stock banshee piston or 795 series piston. Understand?
HJR 4MM cranks
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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My vote is for a vitos 4mm long rod crank. Mine has been good so far. Only problem was keyway for water pump gear seemed to be off a little. Had to sand the key to make it fit the keyway. The rods are good tho.