Midway USA
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Posts posted by Midway USA
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150 shipped
Sorry but no. I have more in the cores and machine work than that. I'd like to have at least $275. I got these ready for spares for my Banshee but am trading it. Guess maybe I should have thrown them in on the trade to sweeten the deal.
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I have a set of 1995 Banshee jugs with a fresh .020 bore fit to a pair of used Vito's Super Stock pistons. You will get the pair of pistons, pins, jugs, and upper end Wiseco Cometic gasket set (gasket set is complete except for reed cage gaskets). I do not have rings or circlips but the pistons use standard issue Wiseco parts. The intake runners have some blending done. The exhaust runner is polished, and the bottom of the transfer ports has had the casting flaws blended and cleaned up just at the opening. Ports are chamfered. Anyway I am taking offers if anyone is interested. I have pictures I will post later, or upon request.
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Ok don't flame on me for saying it, but I am contemplating trading my Banshee for a Raptor 660. I know the guy who owns it, not that it matters. Anyway the 660 has aftermarket shocks on it and he wants to keep them. Commented that he would like to put them on my Banshee and me keep the stick Banshee shocks to put on the 660. I know guys have done 660 shock on Banshees in the past, but can you swap the other way? My thoughts are that it will lower the 660 which would be fine with me as long as they fit. The rear shock is the one I am worried about. Will it bolt up or am I going to have to mod the hell out of things to make it work?
A little voice keeps telling me I am a fool to get rid of the Banshee. The thing is, I don't get to go to the dunes enough and I just hate trail riding the Banshee. Especially after recently getting a Warrior 350. Since I got it, I rarely even bother loading the Banshee on the trailer and hauling it. Anyway I am still thinking hard on the matter and just wanted some input. Thanks in advance.
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Thanks, so now I got the boots covered either in a kit or separately, just need to find those dang caliper bolts! As hard as it is seaming to find some, I may just machine some, if I end up with some spare time before I find some bolts. lol
I am sure the dealer can get the bolts too. I wouldn't think they would be that expensive, but I could be wrong.
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You can get the boots from the dealerl. I just ordered a couple the other day for my Warrior. Same part number as the Banshee. They are about $2.50 each.
Part number 1UY-25917-51 1 boot per package
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How much do you plan on making on it if you part it out? The problem is someone always has something cheaper !!! Yours looks nice what kinda offers did you have?
Not one phone call or any offers. I have it listed on Racing Junk, Craigslist, Waynoka forums page, and tried on E-Bay twice. There are lots around here with cool heads and more aftermarket stuff for less money. On paper I can't get less than $2500 or I feel like I am losing money on it. I completely went through the engine about 3 years ago, but have only had it to the dunes about 10 days or less total in that time. I hardly ride it around here because it just isn't much fun on the trails. I am trying to come up with funds to buy another Warrior and go through the engine on the Warrior I currently own.
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Can't seem to get it sold and can't just give it away for the money invested. For now just checking interest. Don't want to start a part out and have only part of it sell then have the rest lying around. Interested in best value for the parts and will decide from there. If I part it out, the wheels and tires and rear hubs are not for sale.
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Creepin up on 45. First ATV I ever owned was my Banshee and got it at 42. Recently acquired a Blaster but hate it. My boy is 8 and we ride semi-regular. He has a Raptor 80 at the moment. Love the dunes but just can't afford to go as often as I would like.
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Lookin for a decent set of front shocks to put on my Blaster to improve the suspension. I have a set of shocks that some idiot cut the springs on if anyone has just some springs.
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I used a cut off part of a broom handle to prop mine up and used a heat gun. It worked very well for me. Same concept as the propane torch but maybe a little easier to control.
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I got chrome t-5's but im debaiting to sand em down and paint them with a flat black hi temp paint!!! ive done it with a few other pipes... But nothinng with chrome plating!! I plan on sanding the pipes with 400 grit and sanding in the direction of the exhaust flow.. cleaning them with wit acetone.. and throwing down some paint!!! If anyone has painted the chrome pipes before let me know you process and how it turned out.... I got a buncha polished billet aluminum covers.. I think with my bike being black it would look badass!! give me the opinions come on!!!
If you don't sand or glass bead the chrome off, the paint will never stay on. Nothing really sticks to chrome very well. I used a scotch brite pad on a Blaster FMF pipe then painted and within a few rides the paint came off . I used the VHT high heat header paint which we use on car manifolds with great success. When we put chrome valve covers on a car engine, we glass bead the area where the gasket sits otherwise no sealer sticks and they always leak.
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Took my shee to the dyno last night to have it tested after my new top end, drove 40 minutes to get there got it hooked up and found out my rear carrier bearings where bad started to wobble pretty bad, so a wasted trip, Luckily I had a backup at home with brand new bearings. Went back today and finally got to make some runs only to find out my stator is possibly going bad it has a little sputter at high rpm's and it loses power for a breif second but doesnt do it everytime. Well it is putting out 60 - 61 hp. Not to bad for riding trails. What would be a decent reliable stator to buy for this? The only place that I know of that makes them other than OEM is Ricky Stator but from what I have read on here it is a crap shoot with those whether you get a good one or not. Any advice would be appreciated
Ricks Motorsports Electrics. They sell complete stators or will rewind yours. Talked to the guy a while back and he seems to have a handle on building quality stators.
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so if there is pitting then would resleaving the cylinders be a good idea or just scrap em cause there stock cylinders. money wise whats the best idea
You aren't really going to know until you have them measured. Most shops won't charge anything just to measure for size. We don't. If it is somewhere between std and .060 then you could bore to the next size. If it is .080 or .100 then you may need to look into something different. Not sure what sleeving costs because we don't do 2 strokes, but it may be cheaper to find some good used cylinders.
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can rust like that just be sand blasted out? or when your honning your cylinders would that take of the rust?
Rust like that can be blasted or honed out but there will most likely be pits and stains when finished. Depending on the severity of this, it could compromise ring break in and sealing. The machine shop should be able to tell you if it is good or bad.
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how do people bore cylinders??
We use the Sunnen CK10 cylinder hone to bore and hone them unless more than .030 material needs to come out at one time.
If we need to bore them we use the Rottler boring bar:
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the angle looks correct just sitting on top but a smaller peg and drilling a hole seems better to me. I guess they would say on the package if drilling was required. Looks funny to me but it worked for you so what ever
I thought it looked funny as well. That is why I asked the guys at the dealership where I bought it.
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I bought a moost front chain slide, it has a post towards the back sticking out tht looks funny sitting on the top of the swing arm IMO. It either looks funny or I need to drill a hole for the peg. anybody use this slide?
Yamaha shop told me it just sits on top of the swingarm. I have had mine on for a couple years and it works fine that way.
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i am getting close to making my purchase, but want more opinions about my jet choices. locogato11283 has recommended me a 280 main and 27.5 pilot. ive read on the forum that FMF fattys like big pilots so im also thinking about a 30 pilot...27.5 vs. 30? also, is 280 main good? or should i go higher to a 300??
Info on Banshee:
*No port job
*stock carbs
*FMF Fatty Gold Series Pipes
Info on my location:
*Jamaica, New York
*About 40 feet above Sea Level
*I ride between 40 to 100 degrees Fahrenheit
I have ordered lots of them from here
I have 280 mains and 27.5 pilots on FMF pipes and it is good for around 80 degree temps.
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Theres a hole in the upper case, right in front of bolt #16, is something supposed to be in there or what? I cant find it in my manual?
There is supposed to be a 90 degree plastic hose elbow there. It is for the crankcase to breathe.
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Don't know how many jet sizes I would have had to go, but last July 4th I had to pull my lid to lean mine down. Mid day it was 101 degrees and rich enough it didn't have any snap on the jumps. Pulled the lid and it ran great the rest of the day. Late in the day a cool front came through and temp dropped back to the 80's and had to put it back on. No lid makes a big difference but also louder kind of like flippin the lid on the old Chevy truck air cleaner.
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Mine did fine without changing jet size.
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cool to see that i'm not the only one that has heard of beaver, ok. i rode there for 15 yrs growing up. nice place that not many people know about.
We camped and fished there a lot when I was in junior high and high school. First started going around 1981 and last time until now was 1986. Never had ATV's then so didn't get to ride. It is small but fun.
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I bet I don't have enough posts, but here I am anyway!!