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Posts posted by someone82
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I've used both Permatex Black and Permatex motoseal on the reed cages before with no leaks before (no gaskets).
Just be sure you let it cure before overnight before you run the motor.
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I recall hearing in the past that FMF Powercore silencer's fit, but don't quote me on it.
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Ice.... or Water Wetter with h2o
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the track is 4/10 mile oval clay...thanks for the good info about what compound, where do you buy ur rims or the cheapest place... and what about some of those lowering kits on ebay, that claim to lower and widen the front, are they any good, or should i save up for some ff arms or some r6 shocks and wheel spacers... kinda on a budget( who isnt?..lol) thanks again...
For rims, I've honestly bought them all off e-bay, I would check out Alfie, as he is a site sponser and I think he can get rims.
If your just trying out flat track, then just get one of the front and rear lowering kit from I think cjr performance. You can also flip the front wheels to get you by and get some added width. Remeber tho, flipping the front wheels brings the center of the tire out over the wheel hub and it will slow down weight transfer to the opposite corner.
Also for my riding style I like the rear to narrow then the front, so I ca turn the bike easier. This is so I can diamond the corners (make the track 4 strait aways), and loose less corner speed through the apex.
If you are going to be serious, save up for arms, get shocks tuned for flat track use (length, valving, and spring rates), and an extended adjustable axle.
I tried the r6 shocks, and they were just way too stiff and couldn't transfer weight properly.
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Another plug that I run is a BPR8ES same plug as stock only the tip is a projected tip. It hanges down in the combustion chamber. Then you side gap them.
When you side gap them, do you run the same gap as a standard plug? Also do you notice any difference in overall performance?
I've ran side gap plugs in my rotory motors and noticed a difference, but that's it.
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can u get more traction by upgrading the shocks my shee just seems to spin the tires all the time and there almost brand new
What do you run for air pressure?
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these look very good, they are really big tho, will they fit with no clearance prob? also ima have to buy rims too, its just gonna be oval track, no jumps, do i really need beadlocks or can i get away with blue labels? one more, ive seen the dura tires on ebay, are they ok or is the hoosier better, the track is actually a car track but they are gonna runs quads a few times too...thanks again
No the 59" tires are fine, you'll have no clearence problems at all. I would recommend running beadlock to reduce the chance of spinning a bead but you can run them on regular rims.
Stay away from the dura tires they are a very hard compound and don't grip worth poop. Stick with hoosiers (RD12 or RD15) or amercian racers (SD-23) if your running the oval.
What kind of surface is the track? Clay, dirt, etc...
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Hoosier has rear tires on clearence:
https://www.hoosiertire.com/discontinuedtires.htm
Go down to Left Rear Micro Sprint Tires, and you can get a killer deal!
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Yes please let me know. He told me he won and there wasnt a payout. Soo i dont know.
David Wilmer or something like that number 8 on a yfz.
Eh you were right it's a Trophy class only, the flat track bikes get payout
David Knight maybe? I don't know if you know him but Mike Lewis should be out there and he is Fast. I know he has done allot of racing up north (trx250r w/raptor plastics, esr motor etc... etc..)
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Get them to do a money or "Pro" class and ill head down there. Ill make it there eventually. I was talking to a guy that raced there last year said yall had a decent turnout for just starting up, just not too many fast guys, But that will come in time. I would need a payout to cover some of the costs.
There is payout for the top 3 finishers in the main, I forget what it is tho, I'll have to look into it.
On a side note, who were you talking to about it?
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Here are a couple of shots, nothing too exciting because I was just putting through camp-ground:
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Next race is coming up, June 12th...
Pre entry form is posted: http://www.venturaraceway.com/pdf/Forms/2010%20%206-12%20Motorcycle%20Entry%20Form.pdf
Hope to see some of you there, as I was the lone 2-stroke there last time.
Hopefully I don't get a flat tire again either... sigh
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2001 raptor 660 rear shock will fit, i know because I have one mounted up and it's just fine and dandy. Now the swing arm is another question.
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Those last two are SICK! I would take the first one on a white shirt and the second one on a black shirt.
Badass work dude, keep it up!
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Pull the clutch cover off and make sure there is nothing causing the kick starter to bind up before you go rebuilding the motor.
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I think am going to try them worth a shot.
Cool man, good luck but two things; one I didn't like their gasket set as their base gaskets were rather thick (I don't remeber their spec) as it would have hurt my port timing and squish as well, so I just stuck with the weisco gaskets. Two I don't know if this build is your first or not but make sure you take the pistons and cylinders to someone that has experance with boring 2 stroke motors (and not just weed-eaters) and make sure to ask if they will chamfer the ports for you. If not just send them off to F.A.S.T. and Jeff will take care of ya.
Well put...
In addition to proper machine work and clearance...proper tune is just as important, only thing I'd add there.
The Vitos pistons I'm going to be using are for the cub.
Blaster piston dome and the specs are a little different than the Wiseco blaster pistons...
The intake bridge is thicker...and anyone that runs a cub knows what the intake does to Wiseco on the intake side (striping) and the skirt is a little longer...as well.
Yeah your right tuning is a huge factor in the relibility of the motor/pistons as well. That is interesting about the blaster pistons tho, something I'll keep in mind for my next motor.
I wouldn't always say cheap pistons are junk.. I've seen just as many failures from wiseco's as I have cheaper pistons.. Working in a dealership service dept you see ALOT of older bikes come through that use all sorts of different parts.. From what I've see.. If there is a piston failure.. its usually do to improper setup of the bore or they failed to change the piston when it was due. I've used a brand called "art" for years.. its a cast piston. and they hold up very well. ($125 a set)
I can only imagine what you've seen working at a dealership...
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Also if bike bandit doesn't have a part in stock it seems to take forever to get.
I had to wait two weeks once for a single gasket because they didn't have it stock.
If they did have it in stock I usally got it next day.
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Anyone ever heard of ARTRAX MXT tires? They have a 5 star rating in every category , 6 plys, aggressive tread pattern etc..... and Im wondering if anyone has had any experience with them?
My buddy has them on his ltr. They work good in the hard pack, but if you get into loose stuff, they lack forward bite.
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If your doing a port job with the rebuild you need to throw them vitos pistons in the trash. They only change exhaust timing some any good builder will tell you let them do that with the cylinders not the pistons. Just go get yourself some weiscos and call it a day. The main difference between them cheap ass pistons and the more expensive weiscos is that the weiscos are a forged piston as where them cheap ones are only a cast piston which is junk. If your going to spend the money do it right the first time. Also just to let you know a good port job alone is going to run you $350 just labor that aint including shipping, pistons gaskets or anything else you would need. I just paid jeff at FAST over $600 to bore, hone, port job, new pistons, gaskets, jets and a couple other little things. Let me just add it was worth every penny. Thanks again Jeff
M&H pistons are forged
Vito's Pistons are forged except for their Cast oem style replacement pistons.
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My biggest problem with that site and those pistons are the rider credits the pistons to being able to beat other bikes he couldn't before, etc. etc.
Either the motor was flat out worn out, out of tune or the guy learned how to ride.
NO Piston on the face of the earth makes that big of a difference.
I totally agree with you on this point. Did I notice a power increse due to the pistons. No
Did I have a noticeable increase of power due to my porting, tuning, etc... yes but I would never put it on the pistons alone.
I had a wiseco piston sitting around and I compared them to the M&H pistons when I built the motor (dome, windows diamentions etc..) and they were basiclly all the same.
One plus the guy that ran "turbo1racing" when I bought the pistons did awnser all my questions up front with no delay.
Here is the deal tho, as you know if you have a piston faliure it is most likely due to improper clearences, lack of chamfering ports, poor tuning, cold seizing the motor, sloppy rods, etc... etc... If you have your machine work and etc. done right the first time, you really shouldn't have any type of faliure. Basicly a lack of attention to details casues failures, and sadly it happens way to often in the aftermarket/racing world and so people go an blame the part that has the most damage instead of really looking into the cause.
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I know I'm probably the only one running them, but I've had them for about two years racing flat track/trail riding and haven't had any issues with them at all. Rings are still sealing (165 in each hole, same since I built the motor).
I only bought them at that time because money was tight and I chanced it and now I'm happy with my choice.
I tore the top end down at the beginning of the year and everything was still in spec.
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We've tried a simalar product in sprint car's before with little sucess. Due to the high rate of speed the tire is spinning, quick deceleration, and sliding it would end up causing worse vibrations.
Just have them balanced with regular sticky weights.
But you might want to make sure your axle is true and your wheels are not bent in anyway before you go to this extreme.
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Welcome to the never ending addiction...
Where abouts in California or you from?
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Out here in cali I just put stainless screen in the pipes and I get through the gates everytime. They just do the poke test and never look for the usfs stickers (or lack there of).
Dunno maybe I'm lucky.
top end
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
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Wow that made my eyes hurt.
Anyway I've always broke my motors in by running through 3 heat cycles and then I re-torque everything in between heat cycles. Then I ride it like a stole it hasn’t failed me once.