blkshee199

prices guys??

Like it says looking for 34 or 35 mm carbs prefferibly gas...also a good set of foot pegs would be nice if anyones got um... Thanks in advance

How hard are these to switch over to gas??

I see this post is a few days old and iam pretty interested in your conversion kits you should post up some prices

Hey dustin its ryan you tool lol but they are used VF2's like i said earlier i may have to swap in my stockers to see if there is any change...

i actually tried that too i swiped the whole deal stator flywheel coil and cdi off a buddies running bike and still had the same problem but the bike ran this time.. this thing had been sitting for like a year in some hillbillies garage luckly without gas in it but i took of the stator cover and it was all rusted out so i changed it all out with new stuff.. could the reeds possibly be causing this after all they were on the bike when i got it so god only knows how many hours are on that stuff... But i do agree the compression is LOW for what i got but its surprisingly even in both cyclinders considering one of them wont run and the other does and also the bike fires up on 1 kick even when cold? Shit i fold boys lol

its an RM stator from some place in canada

yes the ignition componets are all BRAND NEW the tors are removed with a VITO's kit the only thing that has been bypassed is the key switch which was spliced soldered and shrink tubed the tors crap was all removed.. um its actually pretty close to the standard length as far threads go maybe a thread or 2 difference.. im starting to think someone did some shoddy machine work and couldn't get it to run... i picked this thing up for 600 bucks..

tried that too lol even tried switching sides after running them no change

No pretty sure cincy isn't that high elevation wise(683ft)... its a cool head and has 17cc stamped right on it so pretty sure thats right used all snap on testers so not the cheap stuff there... not really sure how to cheak squish? all i did was replace all the seals in the cool head and used my snap on torgue wrench to bolt um down using proper pattern and torque... when i had the head off everything looked really good like pistons were like new and i can still see the hatch marks in the sleeves from honing.. so maybe it hasn'y seated up yet maybe i havn't really ran the thing at all since i got it from the ignition being bad and yes it was all brand new i usd a business card to set the clearence and what gets me is the other side runs clean and seemingly strong??

Yes and Yes the tube is new and in place, the carbs were cleaned like 4 times now, also performed a leak down test and both were the same and good ??? the only thing ive heard is a cracked cycllinder could possibly be my culprit but i would think i would see it somewhere else like bubbles in the radiator??

Alrighty here is my list of mods... T5's, Cool head w/17cc domes, vforce 3 reeds, boostbottle?? and unifilter, Still have stock carbs w/310 mains, middle clip on the needle,... Compression is 160 and 161 and holds nicely bore is .020 over and looks pretty fresh.. I put all new gaskets in rebuilt both carburators, replaced the entire ignition(stator,coil.CDI,and flywheel) and my finally my problem is i have a dead cyclinder.. Choke side cyclinder is dead i know its getting fuel and has a strong spark(tried switching plug wires, no change)... The bike fires in one kick but the one cyclinder or pipe doesnt get warm like its just not firing, there is not consistant pop through the pipe or when you place your hand behind muffler and rev all you get is a fuel and oil covered hand with no pressure behind it.... so basically iv'e tried everything i could think of and now i'm lost....

Just what it says i need to know what the factory settings for the air screws are im sure it's on here somewhere if someone could point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated... Thanks