Twyztid

Found some so I am all set now.

Nope, sorry, I am looking for the intake boots (manifolds) that go between the carbs & reed valves.

Alright. I am watching some on eBay also so I'll see what happens.

Is there anyone that might have an intake boot for the stock carbs laying around that I could buy? Or maybe the pair? One of mine is partially cracked and I need to replace it. You can contact me here, at [email protected], or at 616-437-3634. Kevin

I have some also that I won't need. I'll have to measure them but I think they are about 3/8". Kevin

Is there anyone from the Grand Rapids area that might have a stock right-side carb boot laying around? Mine is partially cracked and I want to replace it before I go to Silver Lake this weekend. Otherwise I will have to try to find a new one that I can get by Thursday at the latest. You can contact me here, at [email protected], or at 616-437-3634. Kevin

Well, tonight I did the following things so far. 1. I already had a compression tester so I did a compression test on the cold motor but I don't know if my tester is accurate. I got 90psi in both cylinders 3 times each. Seems low since it was just rebuilt. I guess maybe it could be my tester or the fact that the motor was cold. I have some other stuff torn off it and it was pretty late so I didn't want to start it to warm it up. Does it need to be warmed up first to get an accurate reading? 2. Pulled the carbs and rebuilt them but kept the 280 mains and replaced the stock pilots. I also stole the float from another carb for my right-side one that seemed to be sticking. Set the float height at 21mm. 3. Pulled the reeds and they seemed to be OK but I found that right side carb boot has some cracking around the base in the rubber. It doesn't appear to go through but I want to replace it anyway. 4. Drained fuel tank and pulled the petcock. The screen had a small amount of debris in it but not much. On a side note, is there anyone from the Grand Rapids area that might have a stock right-side carb boot laying around? Otherwise I will have to try to find a new one that I can get by Thursday at the latest. Kevin

That's right, I guess I was over-thinking it and completely forgot about the kill switch. :wallbash:

Do I need to disconnect the coil or anything? Usually with cars you need to cut off power to the fuel pump and pull the ignition fuse.

Yes, I have the stock airbox with K&N filter & only the snorkel removed. Lid is still on. I know how to do a compression test on a car/truck but is the shee similar to do? Any direction you can give me on this? I hope the compression is good. The motor only has about 6 hours on it. I guess I wasted $30 on 27.5 pilots & 290-320 mains. That sucks.

I didn't have time to tear into the shee at all last week so I will see what I can find out this week. So you think I shouldn't go richer with the jets? I bought 290-320 jets from Vito's Performance (in MI) based on their recommendations that pretty much matched another person that I was talking to. Vito's told me that I should move up to a 310-320 but that seemed like too big of a jump. I was thinking of trying the 290s or 300s. Would 27.5 pilots help it start easier when it has been sitting for a couple of weeks? Took me like 20-25 kicks with the choke the last time. Once it is warm, it takes 1 without the choke. If my pilots & mains were good but my needle clips were not set right, do you think that could cause a problem if I was running a distance at 2/3 to 3/4 throttle? It is on the needle yet at that point, right? Kevin

More oil should have no effect on the dieseling problem. The oil is for lubrication, not ignition. It seems that you are the only one that thinks that the 280 jets may be rich. I think I am going to try going richer first. Everyone else that talk to says that I should be at around a 300-320 for my mods and the current temperature of around 50-60 degrees. This week I am going to check my fuel petcock, rebuild both carbs, install 300 main jets, maybe install 27.5 pilot jets, check for air leaks, and if I can find my compression tester, I will also check the compression. Kevin

That might be what happed to me Saturday. I ran mine hard for about 1/4 mile on a smooth gravel road and when I slowed down to downshift and do a U-turn it was revving higher than normal without any throttle input. I ended up hitting the kill switch and turned off the key and it still took about 20 seconds to shut down. I realize that this could be caused by other things such as an intake leak or bad jetting but running a float bowl out of fuel also seems like it might cause that if that cylinder got a lean condition from running on basicly just fumes and got hot enough to make the motor diesel for a short period of time. Kevin

OK, well, I will try to get time to check some of this stuff out tonight or tomorrow night and let you know what I come up with. I won't get home until later both nights so I won't be able to run it and check for air leaks until Wednesday. I live in a residential area and it's too loud to run after say 9:00pm. I might not even get a chance to do that this week. I am going out of town Thursday about noon for the weekend.

Yes, I will check that. Would bad reeds cause any of these problems? I haven't checked those either yet mainly because I don't have new gaskets for them so I didn't want to take them apart.

I don't think the head was shaved at all because he told me it was a new, stock head. I better check the compression anyway. What is normal for a stock motor? I will also have to check to make sure that my fuel petcock isn't partially clogged. I guess it might have been starved for fuel.

As I said before, I appreciate you trying to help me. It's just that I read a BUNCH of threads about what oil to use and came to the conclusion that I could safely run the Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil at the 80:1 mixture. Choosing what oil and what mixture ratio seems to be kinda like choosing what motor oil you are gonna run in your car. Everyone has their own opinion, which doesn't mean they are right. Typically, in the end I make my own decision based on reading threads and gathering opinions. Anyway, I don't have pics of the plugs right now but I could get some tomorrow night. The seemed pretty normal to me. I didn't chop them but they both looked the same. The coloring of the ground strap looked right, there wasn't any signs of detonation that I could see and they had a nice brown color on the porcelain at the top part. I couldn't really see the bottom because I didn't chop them. I haven't checked the compression yet because it runs strong and has only like 6 hours on a full .030 over rebuild (crank, pistons, rings, bearings, rods, & head) that the previous owner had a local company do just before I bought it. He had it rebuilt intending on riding it but never really rode it because he had another ATV. I have a compression tester so I could do that as well if needed. Do you think compression really has anything to do with the dieseling issue I had? The timing is stock. I am running 92-93 octane depending on what gas station I go to. I am running BR8ES plugs gapped to .030". I think that is the gap anyway. My SeaDoos also take that same plug. I know that one is supposed to be a .028" and the other .030". I am pretty sure that the Banshee is the .030. The previous owner had BR9ES plugs in it but I don't know why. I didn't think it the setup needed a different plug than stock so I went back to stock with the plugs. The BR9ES are one range colder, right? Do you think a stuck float or needle not sealing would have had anything to do with it not shutting off immediately when I hit the kill switch? Kevin

Did I say something funny???

I appreciate that you took the time to reply but I wasn't asking what oil to use. I was just informing what I am running and this thread is NOT to be turned into a "What Oil Is Best" thread. I have already looked into that and decided on the Amsoil with that ratio. The link that you listed requires a login. Is there a way to see the thread without having to register? Thanks, Kevin

I also found today when I started it that the right carb is dumping fuel out the vent. I am guessing either a stuck float or the needle/seat isn't sealing properly. I had this once already and saw a slight groove on the rubber tip of the needle so I stole the needle from another set of carbs that I have. I also checked the float height and it seemed OK. After I did that it was fine for a bit but now it is dumping again. With the carb turned upside down, are you supposed to check the height of the float with or without depressing the slight springy feeling that the float has when it is turned upside down? The plugs didn't look really bad to me. The coloring seems to be about what it should but I am new to reading plugs so it could be a little off, I guess. The did look the same.

I just recently got my shee and was out running it yesterday on various terrain for the first time. At one point last night I had it probably around the 70mph range on a smooth gravel road for almost 1/4 mile. I wasn't really at WOT in any of the gears but I was probably at around 3/4 throttle. Anyway, when I let off the throttle, hit the brakes to slow down, and pulled the clutch to downshift the revs didn't seem to want to come down like normal. It wasn't really screaming but I think it may have been dieseling on it own because it didn't turn off for about 15 seconds even after hitting the kill switch & turning off the key. Also, I have noticed a slight bog mid-throttle that doesn't seem to be present if the rpms are above of below that particular range. It idles fine but it started kinda hard after sitting for 2 weeks. Took about 20 kicks but after it was warm it only takes 1. This seems like it is a jetting problem to me but I would like your opinions. It is all stock with the exception of FMF Fatty pipes/FMF Silencers, K&N filter, and the airbox snorkel removed. My current jetting is 280 mains, stock #25 pilot, and the needle clip on the third (middle) position. Also, it was about 78 degrees & humid when this problem happened and I run an 80:1 fuel mixture (Amsoil Saber 100:1 oil). From what I have read on this site it sounds like I may need to move my needle clip and go up a size or two on the mains. Would moving the needle clip towards the blunt end richen it or do I have that backwards? Would a larger pilot help cold starts at all? What do you guys think? Kevin

I ordered the Cascade adjuster from Jeff today along with some other parts. He was very helpful on the phone and I am sure I wil do more business with him in the future. It seems like the parts-buying never ends. I think I have spent about 20 minutes riding so far and about 25 hours working it since I bought it at the end of August. :sad: I usually do a complete look-over of anything I buy and take care of any potential problems right away. I think I should be good for a while once I get just a few more things straightened around. This forum has been VERY helpful so far. Kevin

Thanks, Jeff. I will call you tomorrow. I had called today but you told me your tech lines were VERY busy so I really didn't get to talk to you. No problem... I will try again. Kevin

I have a question. I just got done opening my case to see how my adjuster was set because it seemed off (from the previous owner). The stock adjuster was threaded almost all the way in and the tab on the lever on the left side was about 3/4" outside the tab on the case. I wanted to get the two tabs on the lever on the left side to line up. When the adjuster screw is turned clockwise, which way does the lever move? I already too mine apart because I wanted to check the condition of the clutch plates too. It seems that clockwise would move the lever towards the middle and counter-clockwise would move it to the outside. Is that correct? I am trying to figure out if something else is messed up to determine if I need anything else from Cascade. Thanks in advance. Kevin

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