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Bansheeb0y5505

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Posts posted by Bansheeb0y5505

  3. Banshee runs smooth and strong will warm.. breaks up

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Hey guys.

    My banshee's always had this issue and after riding a few friends banshee's it's starting to really bother me and I wanna get to the bottom of it.

     

    My banshee's motor itself is healthy, good compression, jetted correctly, etc. It's always been fast (even a hair faster then a couple of my friends shee's which have a few more mods) My issue is that for the first 15 minutes or so of riding, it will run beautiful. No hesitations, no stuttering, just instant powerband. Around that 15-20 minute mark of riding, it starts to break up down low. Once it gets past the hesitation/stutter it still pulls up top really hard. The hesitation down low gets really annoying in tight trails or when im low in the RPM range.. If I let it sit for a few minutes it'll run strong down low again for maybe 5 minutes then act up again.

     

    All this leads me to believe it's some sort of heat related problem. My impellar is fine, looks to be in good shape. My father's and friend's banshee's do not overheat where we ride and generally we stay moving at a good pace. Do you think that maybe my original 89 radiator isn't flowing as good as it once did? I was looking at those oversized radiators on ebay. Or could the impellar look good and actually be shot because of little wear?

  9. Losing patience..

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    To this day I can get my banshee running decent but never perfect, always has some kind of hiccup.

     

    My mods include FMF Fatty's, Powercore II silencers, +4 timing plate, airbox lid removed with a K&N filter, Boysen RAD valves, and that's it. My current jetting is 270 mains, 27.5 pilots, needle clip in stock position.

     

    When it's cold, it pulls strong and doesn't hesitate or stutter. But when it's up to full operating temperature, it has no low end. It runs like shit until I get into the rev's then it pulls hard. I also foul out plugs every ride or two.

    I sync'd the carbs and messed with the air/fuel screws...

     

    My father has an identical setup but with a stock airbox lid still on and stock reeds. He has 260's and stock pilots and his runs PERFECT. One of the best running banshee's I have ridden. He took his lid off one day to fuck around and it popped a little from being too lean. So I figured it makes sense to go 10 up on the main jet for mine since I run open airbox (hence the 270) and I put the 27.5's in because FMF recommended it and it did help over the stock pilots.

     

    I'm at a loss here. Are the weird shape of the RAD valve reed cages messing me up? I don't know where to start at this point.

  10. Boysen RAD Valve Reeds

    in Swap and Trade

    Posted

    To be honest I don't know. I've been having problems tuning my bike to run properly and ive been going off my friends and my fathers who both have identical mods and stock reeds. So im just copying their setup piece for piece.

    Cages (the rad valve itself) are perfectly fine, if anything id change the peddles on them. Don't know if they're good or bad, but my banshee runs with them. it runs strong until it warms up then sputters bad down low and fouls plugs.

     

    So more or less I just want stock reeds on like my friends bike and then mess with the tuning. I don't know if the odd shape of the rad valves is throwing off my tuning or not.

  12. j arms vs a arms

    in General Banshee Discussion

    Posted

    ok time to put this to rest who on here has actually had a j-arm frame fail, break, bend or wear out so called prematurely?? rember alljframes are at least 22 years old. so yea there is probably going to be a lil slop in the front end.

     

    in my actual real world experience i dont see a issue with j-arm bikes at all. i presonally like the j-arm look and lightened drag/ dunner chassis i feel look bad ass on a j-frame..

     

    if anyone close to wichita kansas has a j-arm frame i am looking for another one for a build up. i have an a-arm frame i can trade in on?

     

     

    I totally agree. If anything, I prefer J-arms. It's less sprung weight (which = better suspension action) and the frame as a whole is lighter.

     

    I bought extended J's and like them much more then A-arms. I love when people check out my banshee and are so fascinated with the arms :P

  16. White plastic cover near sprocket?

    in General Banshee Discussion

    Posted

    We had to change the shift shaft seal on my fathers banshee, so I was powerwashing the case area. (all around the sprocket/seal)

     

    As im powerwashing, i notice some white starting to appear.

     

    I continue to finish, and for the first time noticed there is a white plastic plate with three screws there.

     

    What exactly is this for? Can't believe I never noticed it before.

  19. can i beat him?

    in General Banshee Discussion

    Posted

    Predators are fucking turds. Hence the nickname, "Predaturd"

     

    I've ridden two of them. One was a repair we were working on. Stock with a full HMF exhaust system and an intake. I was SO dissapointed. The thing felt like it made good torque, and it ran great, but honestly, it didn't feel much faster at all then my bolt-on 400ex at the time.

     

    Then I also rode a newer predaturd, with a 560 big bore, porting, and high compression. Dead honestly, it looks fast when he rides it, but when I rode it I thought it felt slow for how much work was done to it. (My banshee feels faster...) I've yet to race him.

     

    Just my honest opinion. The predators run real smooth and make for an awesome trail power range, very torquey. But not all that fast. A 450 would kill one.

  21. DMC 916 Muffler

    in Jetting & Exhaust Forum

    Posted

    Does any one have a picture or know how the mid-pipes attach to the 916 style muffler? I'm trying to figure out if they slip in, have a flange, or use a rubber coupler like the expansion pipes. Thanks much! Evan

     

    The headpipes attach to the midpipes by a coupler like every other exhaust.

     

    Then the two midpipes attach to the canister.

     

    Basically there's two holes on the back of the canister, one for each midpipe. Each one has a groove for an o-ring and 3 studs. You put the o-ring in the groove, then slide the mid-pipe onto the studs. Bolts on with nuts.

  24. Need help with clutch rod

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    cant be a nut inside the case.....the bolts thread into the case itself which are tapped......its kinda like a flat spoon lookin bracket that just gets bolted over top of the clutch actuator to hold the actuator pushed down against the cases.

    Can you possibly get a picture of this?

     

    I'm almost embarrassed making this thread as I'm pretty mechanically inclined and can usually fix everything on my own. This gas just got me confused. haha.

     

    I don't really see anywhere where a bolt can go, or a bracket over the actuator.

  25. Need help with clutch rod

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    You can pull the clutch actuator rod completely out of the case? There should be a "clip" and bolt holding it down. It may not be down all the way, and the rod could be stopping it from being down where it should be. I'd tear the clutch down to see what's goin on.

    Where do the clip and bolt go? I looked at a breakdown online and it didn't show anything like that.

     

    And being on the left side of the case, I have a feeling that if there IS a nut in the case that holds it on, won't I have to split the cases to fix it?

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