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dantheman7502

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Everything posted by dantheman7502

  1. well i was riding on both. but in sand it was horrable i know it will bog some but i couldent even shift into 2nd i continuously got stuck bc i would bogg so bad. This was at bull gap in mio, MI alt is about 1000ft or so and temp was 50's. I'v never done a true plug chop before, no where around i can do it safely. but when you cut the plugs do you use a hack saw or a pipe cutter or what whats a good way to go about it.
  2. any input on this please
  3. OK Finished rebuilding over the winter new motor, .20 over, super stock pistons, shaved head, all new seals and new crank stock stroke, stock carbs, fatty pipes, k&n filter, open air box. 32:1 fuel ratio. jetting as of now is 290 mains 27.5 pilots, and needle in middle clip. Run the bike on flat pavement or dirt road and it runs well, but in sand it bogs like hell, even with paddles on, could barily make it up bull gap in MI this weekend, even when i drop the clutch in 1st it bogs in the send unless i have the throttle pretty much pinned. i was messing with the needles and that didnt seem to help. when i do get on the pipe it runs ok. the plugs are a little dark but i havent fouled any. any help would be appreciated.
  4. Im just kinda ciruous to know how long a rebuild usually lasts, i'v heard from some people that say 40 hrs that sounds like crap if you ask me, but i was just wondering what all you other people think and how often you rebuild the top end??
  5. Exactly the same thing that happend to my banshee, im were you are at except i split the cases, its not that bad, mine wasent even running lean, i think i had a crank shaft seal leak on the left side. the entire lower neddle bearing is gone and i have some damage to the case, but not where the bearings sit so i think im ok. if i were you split the cases and get as most of the possable metal shaving out of your oil transfer ports and inspect your crank and get it trued and welded.
  6. I was thinking the same thing but when it was fresh it ran great and after the detonation started i put the stock key back in and it didnt help at all, unless i missed a leak somewhere or something, i wasent running lean, a little rich acually but not bad, but i definatly know the crank is bad, left piston dosent even go up to top dead center its like 2-3 mm away, but that was after it broke. so the only thing i can think of is maybe the crankshaft seal on that side went and i couldent tell. could float level be a cause? also when i pulled the head the oil in the left cylinder was dark grey and thick covered everything, the dome too, right cylynder was clean
  7. ya iv talked with him many times hes real knowledgable about that shit, Any thoughts on why i was having detonation?? could a bad crank case it? what are some causes it was just baffling me??
  8. and by the way is vitos a good builder,is there stuff really any good, iv heard some mixed thought on him, i live like 45 min from there shop?
  9. compression was around 150 psi when rebuilt the fist time, when the cylinder whent on it, it was around 130 cold by way both, 5 degree timing advance on 93 octane, ran good for 6 months untill i started getting the detonation and couldent figure out why. couldent find any air leaks carbs where clean. leak down test was good. And if a can find a decent stock crank i will get that and get it welded, trust me i need to save the extra money,
  10. thanks for the input guys, i think ill just go with a hot rods crank seince i do plan on other mods in the future and iv already got fmf pipes, and ill try and pick up a used head for cheap i think mine is scrap its already been milled down once and the one dome is toast i believe, im also bored .020 over, and trust me i know boost bottles are a waste one of my buddies have one and its a waste, but i got one more thing to ask, would a bad fly wheel cause detonation, mine has a little rattle to it, magnets broken off, you know that though.?? thanks again for the advice.
  11. Ok i need to rebuild my motor due to a detonation problem that ruined the crank and possibly the jug and head. But i was wondering what brand of crank i should get, either a stock one or a hot rods, hot rods 5mm long rods or a stroker. Im not a seroius rider just want something powerful and reliable, also i need a new head any recomendations there? thanks for any help
  12. acually i pulled the head of today and got it looked at and i have detenation in the left cylinder, what are some posablities of this.
  13. I am 1000 feet above sea level
  14. I have a 98 banshee bored over .020 FMF pipes k&n filter with an open airbox. In 1st through third gears i have hesitation at wot but in 4th threw 6th its strong, I have 290 mains 27.5 pilots and stock needle in the middle pos. any thoughts?
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