rubberneck
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Posts posted by rubberneck
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check make sure the idle jet is clear
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Me personally id pull it all the way down and inspect and weld the crank. Ive had 2 bikes lose cranks shortly after acquiring them. If youve got it half way apart just go all the way and make sure its in good condition. While youve got it apart you can mod the shift shaft, shift star and put a pancacke bearing on the clutch and new water pump impeller and seal at a minimum. If necesarry billet clutch basket and new clutch. Those are the areas that always seem to take a shit so you may as well do it now and be done.
As far as the rebuilt carbs. The last set of stockers i have leaked worse after the rebuild than before. I dont think the aftermarket needle and seats are worth a shit.
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I have zero info except for what i read on facebook. The debate over which materials/how light things should be could go on forever. I just have to think at some point you have to say, man is my life worth saving a pound of weight on a bike? Thats my .02 which after inflation is really worth nothing.
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Weren't those the mountain bike bars so many fellas like?
I believe that is true, I also have to think that the stresses put on bars on a mountain bike vs a 300 pound quad are way different. None the less i dont think he will be using those particular units again, that could have been way worse and im sure he is sore as fuck
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After brad lindseys video from the northwest drag racer forum on facebook today i can say carbon fiber handlebars are a no go.
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Thats the one. If placed back by the tank it will work well and last a long time. as you know electric pumps like to push fuel not draw it. Whoever decided putting the electric lift pump on the motor on these trucks is a jackass and single handedly ruined lots of lift pumps and consequently vp44s. Like i said mine now has 130k miles on it and is still going strong. So here is the deal with the 5th gear nut. The best fix is to put a fully splined main shaft in it. The easy and simple fix is just to buy the aftermarket nut which locks in place with set screws and loctite. If you leave it be and it backs off sometimes you can get away with adding the aftermarket nut but sometimes it will walk back off. If you put the nut on before it walks off it generally will stay put. The nv4500 is super simple trans to build so if he waits and it fails its really easy to build and at that point he could simply buy the mainshaft and new 5th gear which is the way to go anyway. Its just a matter of trying to prevent a breakdown and a lot of guys like to do the nut because it can be done in the truck whereas a rebuild obviously means removal and down time.
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Is that truck a 5 speed or 6, they had both for a while. If 5 speed you may want to address the 5th gear lock nut, they like to walk off.
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was reading on that... would cost anywhere from 3-5K to do it all said and done.
a lot of guys have been fine with a airdog kit and monitoring the fuel pressure. If you where driving long distances and didnt want to mess with that bs then yea id say investing that kind of cash would be worthwhile.
from what I gather the issue is the VP44 messes up when the lift pump starts slacking off on fuel pressure due to lack of cooling and lubrication. a new LP and keeping an eye on fuel line pressure and your golden. takes about 30mins to swap out lift pumps from what I read too
Just put a carter 4601 back by the tank and get rid of the factor lift pump. Ive been running the same one for 130 thousand miles now. And yes fuel pressure monitor is critical imo.
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It turned pretty epic today for sure.
Think I skipped over 40 posts
Something happened today, im not sure epic is the right word to describe it. hahaha
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JFC i think the real idiot is me for reading this shit
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Since you have the equipment, cut the trans while you have that thing split apart. It doesnt take long and they shift so much nicer.
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I've seen them on big engines. Class 8 truck engines I mean. I haven't seen any for the little engines but I'm sure they're available
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They do make one for the 5.9 There are aftermarket options as well as cummins options. My understanding is it is not uncommon in other applications for it to be on the 5.9s it appears that dodge did not feel it necessary (big surprise). they replace the freeze plug in the back of the motor, you either need to pull the head or the transmission to install. (this is on a 2nd gen truck i have no fucking clue on anything later)
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Being that my truck is never gonna haul anything significant I'm not too concerned... All of the "shanty draggers" here in elkhart run cummins hundreds of thousands of miles... It's all you see around here....
Shop recently had a 700,000 mile 6.7... Deleted at 120k... Yes she was tired but running.
You have nothing to worry about.
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It would make sense.
Paging F1HDR, come in please.
I think the reason you dont see a lot of #1 cook downs is you are feeding the coolant to the front of the motor
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Steel crown pistons FTW lets make some EGTs. LOL
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I was thinking I had heard the same thing on the pre emissions cummins motors too.
Actually i think it is common to all inline 6 motors, i know my uncle lost #6 on his Cat powered motorhome last year.
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I wonder why? I remember the old VW 1.9 ALH TDi motors use to have issues with cyl #3 due to the fact the way the intake manifold flowed. No. 3 cylinder would always get a rape train of boost shot at it, and sometimes that #3 rod would bend. Not bend bad, but bad enough to cause a drop in compression in that hole, and sometimes hard starting and poor running.
Curious if that's the case on the 6.7?
#1 and 6 run hottest on the inline 6 cummins, number 6 especially. As i understand it, it is also an airflow issue, both in and out. The outer 2 cylinders just get less airflow but #6 being crammed in the back suffers the worst. #6 is usually the one you toast due to excessive EGT even on the older non emissions motors. So if they are on the edge due to heat id expect thats why they are seeing problems with #6
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They claimed they couldn't find one. I did a quick search on Autotrader and was talking to a dealership in OKC within 15 minutes. They called me back in 5 minutes and I put the deposit down. We picked it up the next day. Fucking lazy dealership here.
I had the exact same experience with both the local dodge and honda dealers. Both said they couldnt get what i want. Traveled to a dealer that was more than happy to either find it (honda) or order it (dodge). some of these fucking salesman just dont seem to want to earn any money.
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Clean and synch carbs, make sure you have fresh fuel in the bike do a leak down test.
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Here is my 95 Dodge 2500 hightop Sherry designs conversion van. Fully loaded inside and cozy as fuck. I'll be taking this with me on the east coast spring ride. I love this thing!
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Much less "Rapey" looking than DDQs mystery machine
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For anybody that hasnt seen this, I think it sums bitches up pretty well
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figure roughly 1 jet size increase for each 1500 foot drop so im guessing you will have to go up 3 to 4 jet sizes on the mains, im betting your pilots are close at 27.5 maybe need a 30
Interesting read on carbon fiber control arm manufacturing.
in Suspension
Posted
What concerns me on CF suspension parts is how they are most likely to fail if they do as compared to a metal component. If any of you are fisherman you have most likely overloaded and broken a rod. Most every modern rod is a carbon fiber or carbon blend. Everybody refers to them as graphite rods but i assure you its nothing more than a long cone shaped carbon fiber part. When they break they explode, its not uncommon to end up with 3 or 4 pieces because once they let go all hell breaks loose. I built rods for about 8 years and always test loaded the blanks to make sure there were no flaws before going through the work of building them out. I can promise you when they go, you know it. With a chromoly or mild steel part i think its more likely to bend or twist on a hard impact than break into pieces. Look at how the carbon fiber axles they were pushing a few years ago to the drag guys were breaking. Im sure it has happened but im thinking you are far more likely to bend a JJA than to shear it clean off. Same with the handlebars in the post mentioned above. the dang things just broke clean off. I bet if they were aluminum they may have collapsed and at least he would have had something to hang on to. May have still crashed, who knows.