shee rips
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Posts posted by shee rips
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i think squish would be a problem before compression unless you get it chambered too. i took .020 off mine and if i remember correctly there is about .035 squish clearance. it jumped the compression about 25 psi but i did the top end at the same time
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hmm. i have one thats been sitting here for a while waiting for me to change the oil and put it in. i guess itll keep on sitting.
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you could put a 13 tooth on the front and it should put you close to where you are now assuming you have 20s now
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i dont see why it would. the cylinder sits farther forward than most of the bottom end, so the oil should go to the low point.
only one way to know for sure tho
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so if i take .020-.030 off the head do i need to have the domes rechambered?
no you dont.
obviously a builder could make a little more power by chambering it as well. i dont know how noticable it would be though.
mine has .020 taken off with stock porting, and it was a good increase, especially on the bottom end.
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Yea, thats fine but you would have to come up with some money aswell.
.20 over
yeah, i expected to throw some cash in. unless they were bored right out.
how much you thinkin?
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I have a cool head, but thinking about haveing the head milled to keep the stock look when i do the 4mil in a week or two.
I do alot of trail riding and hills and such, is the bike more likely to over heat with the head milled or what?
Like yesterday in PA, i was climbing hills for like 2hrs straight without letting the bike cool down, will the stock head be okay for this also?
thanks Joseph
should be fine. i would probably go that route if i were doing it.
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Yea, the jugs that are on my bike are mx ported, i have another set but there are bored .40 over..
might consider looking for a fresher set to have ported..
would bigger carbs make a bid difference also? like 33's without hurting the bottom end?
i might be interested in a little tradesy. my stock bore unported cylinders for you mx ported.
what bore are they on?
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a saw chain file works good. dont put a dremel that close to a fresh bore
you dont need to take much off. just take the sharpness off.
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think about it this way. in any engine, when you find a partially sheared key you replace it, but people are going and buying half sheared keys that should be thrown in the garbage, and installing them to replace a perfectly good one
makes no sense to me.
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Check your PMs man!!
I've been looking for the sticker in your sig forever.
haha you have to be able to say youve done it to sport the sticker :biggrin:
if so its from royal distributing. they are out in ontario canada. they mostly do the sled thing, but have lots of quad and dirtbike stuff too. im not sure but i think they would ship international.
i get their catalogs sent 2 or 3 times a year.
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its the clearance between the piston and the head.
to measure it,take a peice of solder and bend it into an L shape. and insert through the spark plug hole( dont drop it). put it so its in line with the piston pin, and all the way to the cylinder wall, and slowly turn over the engine with the kick starter. it will s1quish the solder. then you measure the squished part with a micrometer.
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i got .020 taken off mine, i freshened up the top end at the same time, but it was a good power gain
i did the math on it, and i think it was .020 off is the equivalent of going 1 cc smaller.
check the squish once you get it on. my squish is about .035 with .020 taken off the head. just so you have an idea where your at, unless its been rechambered, then this wont really work for comparison
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OK, I guess I gotta back up a bit... I just did a magnet test on the cylinder wall to see if it's nikasil... and the magnet stuck...
Doesn't this mean the my cub isn't nikasil?
I thought all cubs were plated.
Is the magnet test even true?
Man I feel dumb and I have no bike to ride and the weather is beautiful!
Guess this is called learning :-)
Nghe
the magnet will stick through the plating.
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or get fmf sst's.
when i just had sst's and a k&n and he had fattys and a k&n, my bike hit harder, pulled longer, and i coulnt tell any difference on the bottom end. my motor was a couple years older too.
the fattys felt a bit 4 strokish to me.
my .02
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like what?
iron bore.. conventional pistons & bearings, large clearances...
the banshee engine design is nearly 30-35 years old.
if your bike is close to stock i reckon you can run whatever 2 stroke oil you want
he speaks the truth. some shandaiwa weedeaters have chrome cylinders, and tighter tolerances than a banshee.
they also run at about 10000 rpm and a 25 cc makes somewhere in the 2 to 2.5 hp range. at that hp to displacment ratio it would work out to 28 hp at 350cc. pretty close to a stock banshee. i know the ratio wouldnt be linear and blah blah blah but i dont see why it wouldnt work. those motor are also air cooled and run at about 400*F.
with all this said, i would run it in a pinch, but not make a habit of it.
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hahahaha scrap metal or you can use em as a tuba haha its gotta be silent tho cuz where i live everything echos off the mountain like my old lt250r i only rode when my parents left and didnt kno i was ridin
just tell them to get the sand out of their gine because you want a fast noisy banshee :biggrin:
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funny how a while back Snopczynski had nothing but good to say about the 2 into 1 set up
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or worse than wearing a chain, it can take out your carrier bearings or the countershaft bearing.
i ended up buying a new chain after my carrier bearings went like 2 rides after taking a link out and having no slack.
i was used to the dirtbike where it doesnt even have to be adjusted all the way out to take up the difference of one link.
the banshee has to be adjusted all the way, and super loose before it wil do it.
my .02
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how much are those led lights going for?
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polaris is garbage. plain and simple. they may have acool features and shit, but the build quality isnt there, and they suck to work on. unless they have changed how they run their show in the last couple years id stay away.
if i could choose any brand new quad, itd be the ktm 525.
that being said, a good banshee can be had for easily less than half of that price :beer:
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first ride with my vapor isnstalled i got her up to 255. i slid off a bank on some slick grass by myslef and had a rough time getting back up lol. '
it was boiling a bit.
for taking it easy in 6th gear i was around 140 degrees, harder riding more like 160 - 170
thats with a pro design impeller, no timing advance.. mods in sig
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they are good quads. mostly just a cruiser imo. not so great for hard riding, but for an all day cruise they are comfortable, and they go forever on a tank of gas
cylinder stud removal
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
in that case heating it was the wrong thing to do. one, heating it expands the metal, tightening the fit. getting it hot then quenching works though. two, you got it hot enough to get soft. andyways, a pipe wrench often works. if the double nut trick is good when you plan on reusing the stud. you can also buy tools for it that work like a charm