frickengreen

I have an 84 rz350 motor in my banshee and It died on me one day and it would not start unless i pull started but i had to keep it revved at 6000 or 7000 rpm and above or it would die! anyone have any ideas? i changed out the coil but it didn't help! also can i run a Banshee stator in the rz350 motor?

my uncle had a set on his raptor and the ball joints would separate while you rode. they have no cotter pin hole to hold the nut on and it falls off. after the fist time it fell apart, he used red loctite. He was flying throuh the sand whoops in idaho when the joint fell apart again causing the front end to dive into the sand in fifth gear tapped out. he broke his collar bone and was not real impressed. after that he drilled the bolt out so he could safety wire it. this has worked it still will vibrate free every now and then.The arms were a few years old so mabey ASR has updated the ball joints. but the arms are good and strong.

how would I make flanges to fit onto my rz and not change the distance from the piston to the cone in my pipes. when I cut and modded them to fit I kept the same dist from the piston. wouldn't adding a flange inbetween my cyl and pipe detune them? I have read this forum and have learnt a great deal about pipes and looking back the t6's weren't the best choice for my setup. :: but when i got them i knew no beter. -What would be a good high reving pipe? CPI or trinity? or another. I mostly ride dunes and high speed ditches and fields. -does anyone know if a banshee head (OEM or aftermaret) will fit the rz. I have used banshee head gaskets on my rz so shouldn't the head fit on. or how much will I need to shave to gain 45 psi. and will that much shaving change my squish drastically? -where is the "31K " located is it a # in the serial number or is it stamped somewhere else?

I have an 84 RZ 350 engine in my banshee with T6's. they did not fit, the flanges had to be changed. the banshee uses a spring type where the rz uses a bolt on flange. I had to cut my brand new pipes and weld on the old rz pipe flanges. I also had to cut the one pipe inhalf on a seam and rotate it about 10 degrees so it would clear the powervalve cover then reweld it. the power valve actuator was installed under the fuel tank and it works good. I don't know what electonics I have I will have to look someday here. I also have porting done to what extreme i'm not sure. but I know when i got my fresh motor back I only had 95 psi on each side. so i figure the port job was quite excessive. I have 35mm pwks vforce 3's and the t6's but my machine is not as fast as it should be with that combo. I need to get a new head with smaller domes so my comp. will be about 140psi. then my machine should rip.