swag

actually they use it on heads for pulling trucks its rated for 8400 psi and 520 f but i guess you guys make more sense. i'll use it in a pinch. (although everyone knows engines only fail on friday night when you leave saturday) but that's all. just takes awhile to get um up here and i procrastinate too much to actually keep a couple sets on hand. we have to go online because no dealer within 100 miles of here seems to be able to get them. or they just don't want to go thru the effort of looking them up!!!!. thanks for the input.

ok ok i get it... don't be so f...ing cheap. 20 X 3 = 60. 60 X5 = 300. 300 = new big radiator for my sons shee i'm on a budget and every little bit adds up. I get the o-ring rolls from a buddy of mine who works in a performance engine shop. they use them on 1000hp engines. mind you they only have to hold for about 45 seconds but they use them and swear by them. i get the rolls for nothing. anyway, didn't mean to stir it up, just looking for feedback thanks

plugs without the solid tops can also cause strange issues. the ones with the screw on ends are prone to arcing.

anyone ever tried those cut to length o-ring kits in their cool heads? i tried it this year and they seem to work ok. i'm now running 20cc domes with a strong mx port and 1 carb. they have held out pretty well so far and are a super cheap alternative to the boughten ones. just wondering how long they last? if i can get a 10-15 good 4-6 hr rides out of them then i'll keep doing. yeah yeah i realize it's not the brand name stuff but i have three bikes to deal with. (wife and son) and money saved on there adds up to more for something else. thanks

if you are not fussy go to radio shack or circuit city and get a 13 volt bleeder that is rated for up to 200watts. i have one on mine with a ricky stator 200watt unit and it workes fine. its been on there for about a year now with no trouble. The 13 volt bleeders are really small too and take up way less space than the stock banshee regulators. just wire um up inseries and away you go. the cost about 12 dollars canadien so the should be almost free down there.

it's like gasoline there are diffrent grades from kerosene like fuel to diesel like fuel. and none of them would work well in a 2 stroke gas engine.you would need like 3or 4 cc domes and then i would assume some major fasteners to hold your jugs and head on. it's like jackass it's cool to watch someone else do it but may not be so cool if it's me.

thanks dajogejr that helps. 1 size perthousand is the info i was looking for.

sorry i had a typo. my main jet size is a 200. sorry.

hey guys I may be moving from the east coast of canada to the west. My elevation here is sea level. Where I am moving is 2274ft. I run a 2 into 1 setup, pod, mx porting, fmf fattys, cool head 20 cc domes, +4 , 100 octane. my current jeting is a 48 pilot and a 20 main. runs great. My wife and son also have close to the same setup. Question is...... is there a thread on here somewhere that can give me a ballpark starting point? Mine and my wifes carbs are 38mm pwk's and my son runs a 40mm lectron so his is easy as pie. Oh yeah we are all on the third slot from the point on the needle. And also is that enough diffrence in elev to need some tighter domes? See i think i will be fine because we have some foothill type "mountains" that are about 700-900 ft tall and i can see very very little diffrence. We are also right on the water (atlantic ocean) Any help at all would be great. And I realize that there is probably a thread that was just on here telling me exactly what i wanted but i could not find it with a search. Thanks Swag

i'm in for sure.

thanks for the input guys. So far it is looking like glamis. if it is open in febuary. any idea what a trail pass or whatever you have to have to ride there costs for a canuk?

Hey Guys, I am from Nova Scotia, Canada and damn you all for your talk of dune riding. lol. Now my wife and son want to go "duning" as they call it. We each have a shee but they are armoured and set up mainly for trails and mx. They are super fast for around here but I am wondering if they would cut it in the big dunes. They are as follows. Mine: 03 k@n, 38mm, flatslide, v3's, mx porting, 66.5mm bore, cool head 19cc domes, sst's, timing plate, barnett clutch, way wide dura blue, +1+2 arms, yfz frt shocks, elka rear. Wifes: 04 k@n, 40mm lectron, v2's, heavy mx porting, 66mm bore, cool head 20cc domes, fattys, timing plate,stock clutch (springs), dura blue, +1+2 arms, ohlins frt and rear. Son:05 pod, 38mm flat, v3's porting (unknown bought a set of those preported jugs off e-bay), jug port hits way up on top, 64mm bore, prodesign cool head 18cc domes, trinitys, timing plate, hinson clutch, dominator axle, +1+2 arms, elkas all around. I have no idea what kind of hp these would have compared to "the big boys" and if they are going to be sucked out and no fun for us we won't come. I race mx and i know what a sand track does for power so i can't imagine a virgin dune! Also I have no access to paddles or frt tires either. And i don't know how many paddles to run with our bikes. My wife thinks we sould just get some when we get down there but i don't know. Any suggestions? Where is the best duning experience in the U.S.A.? Actually forget I asked that. I don't want to start a huge argument. Where can a experience the dunes where we can camp and it's ok to have a few cold CANADIEN beer after riding? Sorry for the long post but I'm hoping for some feedback so i can make plans. We would leave here in late feb cause in feb it is like -28 here for like 2 months. The blazing heat of the desert will feel good about then. If any of you ever want to jouney this way in the summer there is no land restriction here. Crown (federal land) is fair game. so there is litteraly thousands of miles of trails, gravel pits, mud holes, and fire roads to jam on. Also ice racing in early winter before it gets too cold. Thanks for any feed back.

oh man do i feel silly. one of my silencers was messed up. the core had come loose on the frt side and was half blocking the pipe off. i knew it would be somthing simple.

i bought a ims 5.6 gal tank for mine and sold my tank cover on e-bay. but did i f@#k up there. it absolutly looks like a big yellow turd. ruined the whloe look of my bike. i hate it.....but i can go forever on a tank full. still i think the oversize tanks look like trash. just my opinion.

hey guys ok here is my problem. the right side plug is perfect coffee color after a good hard ride. the left side is drooling black. i have:k&n, 38mm kehin carb (flat slide), moto fast spacer plate and adapter, mod quad cool head (21cc domes) running 91 ot, rt side .090" and lt side .080" over fresh bore from trusted shop, pistons have .004" clearance, rings .003" clearance, fmf gold series pipes and silencers, rickey stator plate at +4, 180 psi compression cold with throttle wide open 500 ft above sea level, medium port job, and crappy stock reeds one side new (rt side) one three months old. I am running motul full synthetic 50:1 When i am below half throttle the lt side barely hits at all and as soon as it gets on the pipes it hits great. oh yeah i am running ngk br8es plugs. I have checked both reed cages and the both will hold water with a few drips after 3-4 seconds. i am at wits end here. i have puled my jugs and kind of made up my own test that may or may not be valid. heres what i did. i taped over each transfer and intake and exaust port filled them with water and measured what i dumped out into a graduated cylinder that will measure .5 ml all are within 1ml between the rt and lt jugs. they look exactly the same and i have measured as closely as i could with an inside bore gage and got them all within .100". the one thing that i could not get exactly right is my boost/bust port but it is within .180" and like i said it holds as the same amount of water as the good side i realize the water method may be a bit backyardish but i think it should get me close. any way i know i am probably overlooking something really simple but i am sure you guys know what it like to frig with something for so long that you start chasing you tail so to speak. i also have a lightened flywheel not aftermarket i just put it on my lathe and shaved some off. and it has new crank seals too and yes i put sealer on the ribs. any help at all would be very much apprciated. its starts well cold too.

Hey does anyone have any decent pics of their transfer ports. I just got my banshee and someone has already been at them and made a hell of a mess. I am just trying to see if i can do anything with them or if I need new jugs. Normally I just open them up a bit but they are all messed up and i can't tell what was what anymore.I have just recently switched back to four wheels i was on two for a while but my wife is into wheelers so i jumped back on a quad. I just do a mild port job on my stuff. Open up the cages and exaust. Smooth exaust port and open the transfers a bit. We don't have sand dunes on the east coast of Canada. Just rocks, gravel pits, and race tracks. So i don't need the massive amounts of power some of you guys are making...... Not yet (have to convince the wife that it is a reasonably investment) anyways. Thanks for any feedback.

thanks guys. that helps alot. now if i can just find a sequence pic i'd be all set. Also , i assume that the numbers cast into the case halves are the torque sequence for the case? Does anyone know if high quality rtv sealer is ok for the case halves? I am an auto tech at a gm dealer and we have some wicked stuff alot better than that old three bond stuff.

anybody know of any links to torque specs for an 03 banshee??? I just got my banshee and tore it down to check the condition of everything and have lost the book that came with it. As you probably all know these things are braindead simple but i would like to get the case halves, jugs and head torqued right. Also it has a cool head on it. Does anyone know if the torque is the same for o-ringed as it is for gaskets? Any help would be greatly appreciated.