Jump to content

Fre530d

Members
  • Posts

    152
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Fre530d

  1. They will fit if you have the conversion kit for YFZ's. But +2's will actually be +4-1/2" wider. And if they're +1 forward, they will actually be +1-5/8" forward. Maybe if you road raced it, and you slammed the bike, and put some street tires on it. But I just can't see the need for having a quad that's 9" wider than stock. Besides, you ain't gonna find a rear axle to go with it, unless you have a machine shop make one.

     

    Thx 2001 stroker, i'm going to buy some stock YFZ a arms then. Will the stock arms from a raptor 700 fit the banshee (with mod) ?

     

    Are they the same as the YFZ ones?

     

    Thx

     

    Fred

  2. Sounds like your all fixed up Fred. Glad the package made it safe to Belgium. Just holler at me if you have any questions!!

     

    Yeah the package made it safely to Belgium, thx for the well packaging !

     

    I have a question,

     

    i installed the carbs PWK35, the billet intake from FAST today , after I synced the carbs i wanted to put my PODS on but it I cant get them on. They hit the airbox support round pieces and i am unable to get them on.

     

    What can I do about it , thx ? Do I have to cut those with a grinder?

     

    Fred

  3. well you need to check the condition of your clutch parts.. if your clutch is toast and the engine is fairly old, theres a good chance you need a new basket, inner hub and pressure plate..

     

    call Jeff @ FAST. hes got a magnum billet basket that works great in addition to stock inner hub and pressure plate. he also sells the best clutch kit ive ever used..

     

    Thx for the answer, Jeff contacted me and im buying the clutch upgrade package from him.

  4. Hello,

     

    My clutch is slipping due to the reasonably high output from my engine.

     

    Mod's are Vforce 3, FAST aggressive dune port, trinity stage 4 , +4 timing, Noss coolhead with 20cc domes and POD filters.

     

    My clutch cant hold the power.

     

    What must I buy to get it puttin up with the power?

     

    THX

  5. Hello,

     

    I want to remove my flywheel and put an adjustable timing plate.

     

    I don't have an impact wrench so I have to loosen the bolt with a normal wrench.

     

    So i want to make a tool that fit in the outer holes of the flywheel so i can hold it when i turn the bolt.

     

    Can someone please give me the dimensions of the holes (how far they are apart and the diameter of the holes) so i can make this tool, i am at work right now so i don't have the oppurtunity to go at home and measure my flywheel.

     

    Thanks in advance

     

    Fred

  6. Thx for the answer.

     

    I have got another question :

     

    If i want a cub setup, and don't want to work on my engines cases and want good reliability.

     

    What's the best setup for me? Stock stroke , +4mm stroke, or +4mm stroke long rod or somthing bigger perhaps?

     

    What are the posibilities for a cub setup?

     

    What's the advantage from a long rod or +4mm , can someone explain this to me pls?

     

    THx in advance.

  7. Hello Guys,

     

    It's been a long time since ive been here but i'm going to dedicate some more time to my banshee again.

     

    I want to buy some Keihin 35 PWK carbs to get some more power out of my banshee.

     

    I have dune ported cylinders from FAST , 20cc domes, v-force 3 reeds and Trinity stage IV pipes, I run 98 octane fuel.

     

    I run a 360 main and a 27.5 pilot right now with stock carbs and it runs great.

     

    What jets must I definitly have to fine tune those 35 PWK carbs to my mods?

     

    Another question, I also want to buy a +4mm stroker CUB cylinder, what jets do i need for this one for the 35PWK carbs?

     

    With regards and thx.

     

    Fred

  8. I know of guy that runs 400 mains in one of Jeffs Dune ported motors, and it screams. Not sure of the pilots or needle clip position.

     

     

    The biggest main that Jeff has sent me is 360 so I think that's the one Jeff suggested me.

     

    Thx for all the answers.

     

    Maybe Jeff can shime in?

     

    WFG

     

    Fred

  9. Hello Guys

     

    I installed my FAST ported cilinders last week. It is a agressive dune port.

     

    I started with 360 mains , clip 4th pos., air screws 1,5 turns out.

     

    Mod's are 20 cc domes Noss coolhead, trinity stage 4 pipes, V force 3 and POD filters.

     

    It was bogging a little in the midrange but pulled out well from the lower range.

     

    Now I've putten in 330 mains , rest is the same, the bogging stopped but when i am driving slowly

     

    let's say 5000 rpm in 6th gear and I push the throttle , it revs super slowly , it takes ages to get to the

     

    powerband. The engine feels like it's low on compession but it isn't.

     

    Am i running too lean? I thought it was my compression but the compr is 170 Psi what's fine

     

    at sea level I think. Any sugg?

     

    Fred

  10. That's one wide ass. Very nice lookin and sweet mods, but a 17t? Mine's fast enough with 13/42 :biggrin:

     

     

    I still got the stock axle but it's widened with those wheel extenders or how do you call them here?

     

    I need the 17t because I drive mainly roads , so I can keep a nice low Rpm when cruising at 60Mph and get a higher mileage.

     

    Fred

  11. Hey Guys

     

    Finally got my pipes back from trinity after a fitting problem.

     

    They fit pretty good now and the quality is awesome.

     

    Put those on in about 20 minutes with some wd40 so it slides like butter onto the exhaust port.

     

    Then I put the needle on the 4th clip, put some 330 mains in, air screw 1.5 turns out.

     

    Left the plastic off and went for a ride on the street here.

     

    Man its unbelievable, the front goes when I touch the throttle full in 1st, 2nd and when I pull a bit also in third.

     

    It does about 90 Mph maybe faster amazingly quick. I got 17th in front and stock in the back.

     

    Got a trailtech vapor for measuring the speeds, yes I puttin the right tire diameter in the computer.

     

    Got an rpm dial also, very nice.

     

    I got a Noss head w 20cc domes, some big look-a-likes K&N's and just bought some V-forces 3.

     

    Threw away the parking, the TORS, put an idle kit on.

     

    I think the jetting is spot on, very good acceleration, no bogging just nice and smooth.

     

    Going to do a plug chop within a few days after I buy some new plugs.

     

    Man I love these pipes!!!! :notworthy: Can't say it enough. Just a Night and day difference.

     

    What a power boost.

     

    Here are some pics ! :thumbsup:

     

    The back

     

    DSC_0191.jpg

     

    The front

     

    DSC_0186.jpg

     

    Left side

     

    DSC_0185.jpg

     

    Muffler

     

    DSC_0184-1.jpg

     

    Stock carb's with K&N look-a-like

     

    DSC_0183.jpg

     

    Trailtech Vapor

     

    DSC_0182.jpg

     

    Right Side

     

    DSC_0180.jpg

     

    My shed with tools for the shee

     

    DSC_0176.jpg

    DSC_0177.jpg

     

    Hope you liked this

     

    Grtz

     

    Fred :wink:

  12. drop the tors power... splice into your yellow with red line power that goes to your lights... thats constant running power.. should solve it...

     

    how ever take that with a grain of salt cause im by no means an electrican! im just going by what common scence says how ever that not always the case with these :)

     

     

    Ok thx , will try that and take that with a grain of salt ;)

  13. Hello Guys

     

    So i am installing a Trailtech vapor speedometer.

     

    It is possible to supply it with power so the backlight stays on so I used

     

    the White/black cable from the tors (I cut the connector that goes at the black tors box that i don't use anymore) as positive lead and the black cable (ground) as a negative.

     

    I saw this in clymers manual.

     

    It's also possible to measure the rpm so I twisted the red cable around the sparkplug cable and

     

    connected the black cable to the same ground as I did with the power supply cable.

     

    But as soon as I start the engine the display starts reseting.

     

    I just can't get it to work properly.

     

    Anyone got some suggestions, experience?

     

    Maybe a better source to tap power supply off?

     

    WFG

     

    Fred

×
×
  • Create New...