Sprntr81

well,i can say this much for myself,NEVER have i had a customer come back to me with a flywheel looking like that.If i would,i would surely make it right for the guy and replace whatever damage was caused.

YES! It is the builders responsability to make sure the parts is not already defective.. done

SAFE? C'MON MAN

i think the guy is fortunate the flywheel did not come out and cause HIM damage,i think the statement of "luck of the draw" and"its just a matter of time" is very poor.Not trying to be an ass here,but any shop that does any kind of work such as that have a "liability".Even if the customer says to take so much off its paper thin,the shop should have had nough sense to say"sorry we cant,,thats gonna make the material way to thin"the guy can come back and sue you even if the guy signed off on it.After a shop lightens a flywheel,it still should never come apart,anyone can machine a flywheel down to nothing and take a pound off it but is it safe?

alllllllrighty

thats way to much material removed from that thing...i would be asking for a new flywheel whoever done the job.

I WOULD RECOMMEND AN ADJUSTABLE STATOR,I MYSELF HAVE SEEN NUMEROUS "DEGREE KEYS" SHEAR OFF.i SAY IF YOUR GONNA PULL THE FLYWHEEL OFF AND MESS WITH YOUR TIMING,DO IT RIGHT AND GET THE STATOR PLATE.

looks like youll need to rebuild the crank,looks like alot of side to side slop in the rod.But for 125 bucks you cant beat it.

foredom tools are great!They do offer 2 different styles of right angle grinders(#55,#55A),but they are for very light work,plus youll need a special latch type burr to use in them...CC specialtys 1MC handpiece is probibly the route you wanna go for right angle grinder,ive got 2,and put alot of hours on the first one i got and still runs smooth as silk.

i agree,if your gonna mess with your timing,get an adjustable stator plate...........The degree keys are prone to shearing off

youll be ok,as long as you keep the bore taped good(i imagine the media will eventually wear through or pull the tape off,and try to use a fine glass bead media,not sand)i mysel prefer to beadlast the cylinders before i do anything...As far as porting goes,ive always ported after bore and hone(on iron liners)you figure you spent all the time porting it and making it perfect after you bore the cylinder its gonna change it all(very slightly).After you beadblast those cylinders clean those things out real good also.

yea,its best to warm the engine to operating temps so you get an accurate reading....just putt around on it a few minutes and then check.

Does anyone know where i can get some offset pin pistons for the shee,im looking for the offsets tward the intake side?i was looking at the 795 pistons but they are just moved closer to the piston crown(from what ive read) to make up for the longrod setup,but i need them offset to the intake side instead.. Any help is appreciated,Thanks in advance :beer:

PathValley is located in SpringRun PA,South central PA...Last time i was there only 3 quads showed up,2 Rs and a Shee...Its a kickass fast 1/4 mile clay oval..They run on saturdays i believe,i was just wondering if anyone ran that rack any,maybe i could come up and hang out with some people...I was pritty big into the microsprint scene up there so i dunno anyone that really ran quads. Link is: www.PathValley.com Check it out

anyone run at path here????just curious

cuting the piston crowns is an old trick we use to change port timing without changing the actual ports,really only time you should cut the pistons are when you are looking to make small changes in port timing ect..Cutting the piston is mainly for experimenting before you alter the actual ports(that way if you dont like it,your not left with junk cylinders).My advice,if your only looking to make a small change,cut the pistons and see how you like it if its good and your happy,then port the cylinders.