letsgetthisdone
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Posts posted by letsgetthisdone
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So does mine.
The CRF was stock. I don't know about the KTM. I had all intentions of getting beat when those bikes lined up. All 3 of us had an even launch (nobody was sleeping). I pegged the throttle and dumped second gear (15/41 gearing). Both times I pulled on them out of the hole and kept them about 2 bikes back and held on to that lead. Both races were the same thing. From start to finish that throttle stayed pegged. I just grabbed the clutch just enough to shift and never let off the throttle.
I DON'T F^*K AROUND! I DON'T BULLSHIT!
now way. you are making around 50hp with your mods, CRF450 make just a smidge over 50hp, and the bike weigh about 170lbs less then the banshee, no contest or the dirtbike...
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if you took it easy for a tank, the rings didn't seat right. let it idle for a few minutes to make sure it doesn't kill itself. search motoman breakin on google, break it in just like how it says..
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TCS is really. you can also try PEP or axis, but they are spendy. stay away form elka and works IMO. and i'm pretty sure fox doesn't do anything LT for banshees..
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depends what curve your dyna is on...
if you're gonna run c12, you might as well go all the way as far as motor setup to run that gas. 175-190psi compression and some timing...
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you could prolly go down to 18 or 19cc domes and +4 timing with the c12 depending on your elevation/compression. that'd really wake your bottom end power up..
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thewy are very expensive. get 7 paddle skat-trak extremes in whatever size you want and call it a day
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you need a special aadaptor for the tire machine so that it will go small enuf...
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put 68mm sleeves in your stock cylinders and go with a lil more agressdive port job. cubs and full-on cheetah cylinders have ZERO bottom end and hit like 10 tons of bricks...
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it would be cheaper to buy a 421 cub setup....
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WESW...lol, j/k j/k, i had too
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Thanks for the tip. I will take a closer look at my harness..... Any recommendations on a switch to use for the bigger lights? What more would I need for a DC conversion....a battery and a rectifier? I don't want to spend a ton more money.....
use a regular switch, but use a relay so all of the power isn't going thru the switch..
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single 35mm 432 +45 k n filter +80 labor =575 total
stock with tors removal total=408 total
2 dual carbs 35mm or so =501 total
those r his prices.
im thinkin of just buyin the 2-1 n installin it myself....i know how to
dude, buy a clymer and a set of tools. it will save you so much money. you'd be into the tors removal kit maybew $250 if you went out and bought you set of tools, a manual, and the kit...
and if you get stuck along the way, there are plenty of people on here that can help..
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WOW, sounds like you have a GREAT mechanic. basically he is saying, "somethings wrong, i don't wanna fix it, lets throw expensive parts at it." fuck that guy, buy a clymer manual ($35) and a good set of tools (about $100) and work on it yourself. you will save a SHIT TON of money in the long run.
as for your problem, install the tors removal kit, then make sure all the moving parts in the carbs are clean, as well clean out and lube the throttle cable, and take the thumb throttle all the way apart and clean it out. the only way the bike can rev up is if the carbs aren't closing. the things i just told you to do SHOULD fix your problem...
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well, it says its a right pipe only. and it looks like a T3 or maybe a DG...
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i think it was a lil over 65hp, and the dyno it was on is supposedly a fairly conservative one... i gave the guy the bought it all the dyno sheets.
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There is a reason no one makes those................ It's a fuse in the waterpump drive. If something breaks in there, then it doesn't take out everything else under the clutch cover. Plus, plastic gears are cheaper and quieter than a bronze or steel gear. :geek:
EXACTLY what i was gonna say...and there is not nearly enuf load on the water pump to warrant a stell gear...
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my shee with a FAST aggressive dune port, T5's, 160psi compression, +5 timing, and 30mm carbs hit 10,700 on the dyno doin 4th gear pulls. usable power went up to about 10,400-10,500ish, really fell off hard after that.
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heres another way to break in a fresh rebuild with some supporting evidence.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
interesting way to go... note that this break in method is for a 4 stroke, but the piston and rings on a 2 stroke and a 4 stroke do the exact same thing and basically, i believe the breakin method to be similar. also note that motune's method is close to the method that wiseco recomends.
thats a very good write-up, and basically what i said, just longer. and he emphasizes allowing the engine to slow the bike down instead of using the brakes..
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let it idle for 10 minutes, then let it cool all the way down. after that ride it normally, just don't let it hang in the higher rpms for a long time, just go thruough the gears a lot. you have to make sure the rings seat, and if you take it easy on the motor, they will never seat properly...
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Its all about ordering Elkas corectly and not from a pull down screen. Talk to Elka or the person your ordering them from Every type of riding what tires you have, your skill level, where you like your sag set the list goes on and on. If you know your needs before you order your Elkas (or any other shock for that matter) they will valve them 100%. If your unsure they will valve them off shelf after they test them on the dynometer. so when you get faster and know what you need out of your shocks you might need a new main spring or a revalve. Elka does valve them a little soft out of the box if you dont tell them exactly what you need.
People that say everyone who gets Elkas need to send them back or to someone else to valve them is bullshit. Elka offers a 30 day test ride. If your not happy with the valving within the 30 days you can send them back and Elka will valve them to your specs at no charge.
i work at an elka dealer, all we ever put on the order form is what the customer wants (type of shocks), and some very general setup info. other than that we just put down the customers name and phone number so elka can call them and get all the exect details for setting up the shocks. I'd say we have to send 75% of our elka stuff back for a revalve... And yes, we emphasize that it is very important to be honest about how much you weigh and your riding ability/style when talking to the elka tech...
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if you wanna go with TCS, go for it, they are amazing shocks. mine worked awesome for the tiem that i had them. And the shock setup was spot on the first time, i've heard of countless people have to send thier elka's back for a revalve cuz elka didn't do it right the first time...
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and we all know how good a boost bottle is....
i think minkia38 did this one....
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fuck, if you weren't halfway across the country. and if i didn't have to sell my current bike to come up with the cash...damn..
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they are about twice as wide, but they are about the same length, maybe a lil longer then stock.
Smoked by a ltr450
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
that'd be a good dune bike, everywhere else it would need A LOT more money to keep up with a 450. track, desert, anywhere there are decent sized whoops...and then that 65hp brute is gonna tire you out really quick. thats why i got rid of mine and got a 450..