r4mclaren

Engine Specs: Dyna FS CDI Keihin Carb (It's either 33mm or 35mm.) vForce 3 Reeds Cool Head with 19cc Domes Wiseco Pro-Lite Pistons (64.75mm) FMF Gnarly Pipes Thanks for your help.

Ok so here is the story..... I've had my banshee for about 5 years now. When I first bought it, supposedly it was rebuilt, but I have now idea if it was or not. It had a cool head, fmf pipes, vforce 2 reeds, stock carbs. About a year after I got it, I got a Trinity 2 into 1 carb kit for it, 19cc domes for the head. I don't ride much, maybe 30 hours a year. Earlier this year I was riding around, was trying to carve out a track in a field so I was wide open for oh I'd say a half and hour or so, then no power from right cylinder. After tearing apart the motor, there was a hole in the piston, yay. So I just got done putting new pistons in and cleaning everything. Before the "break" it started on the 3rd kick or so in warm or cold weather, now, the only way I have been able to get it to start was by blowing some compressed air (not much) into the carb, after that it starts right up and idles fine. If I shut it off, wait 20 mins or so, while the engine is still warm, it fires right up. I cleaned the carb entirely twice, cleaned the reeds thoroughly. Compression after rebuild with WOT was 120psi on both cylinders. Another thing to mention is that the left cylinder did not seem to fire all the time while idling, the right pipe got hot while the left pipe was room temp, I did try swapping plugs, but I didn't try swapping wires although both plugs have spark, however it did seem to fire once revved up.. Any insight would be appreciated.

You were right badassbanshee479 I think I got myself into a big project, Trail Tech explains it all: http://www.trailtech.net/dc_conversion.htm But what I still dont understand is why I can still have the gauges light up? What is the volts of the light output of the stator, 12v dc?

I don't think it is run off of AC because I also hooked up a Blue Cold Cathode light from my computer which runs off of 12v DC and it worked fine. But thanks for your comment, I'll do some more research.

I just put on 2 autometer gauge pods one has a temp gauge and one has a tach. They both have a ground wire(black), a battery wire(yellow), an ignition wire(red), and the sending unit wire(temp is blue, tach is green). I know what to do with the sending unit wires, blue goes to the temp probe and the green goes to the tach output on my dyna cdi. But I am having trouble with the battery wire(yellow) and the ignition wire(red), I cannot get the gauges to function properly, I spliced off my lights positive and negative wires and connected the grounds of the guages to the ground of the lights. And then I connected the battery wires(yellow) and ignition wires(red) of the gauges to the positive wire of the lights. When the shee is running the gauges light up but do not function. I hope I explained clearly enough, any ideas?!?! Do I have to connect the gauges igition wires(red) to the ignition(key) switch?

I was normal riding for about 5 - 10 min before I cut lose, but it was like 35

The motor was just done over with a 409cc sleeve kit about 2 months ago, could a new piston just fall apart being so new?

Thanks, i'll do a compression test first and post how I made out.

Riding down the road winding it out in 5th and 6th then backed off for about 30 seconds then motor died. Came to a stop and went to kick it and it felt like the motor froze up. So I had my buddy tow me back to our meeting spot and went to kick it again and it started right up. I did notice an extra noise, but nothing extreme, something you really had to listen for. Runs fine now, any idea what could have happened?