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Posts posted by Hilarious
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Hello all, i have a question. I usually go riding to sand mountain nevada. If I change the rear sprocket to one with 5 more teeth, will it increase the power? Does that make sense?
you will not gain any power.
what you are doing is making your gearing shorter where the engine wont have to work as hard. increase acceleration, decrease top end speed.
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So I mounted the cdi on the left front of my frame under the gas tank, will the ceo and coil interfere with each other? If so what would it cause to happen? so far I have no issues.
you should not have any problems with stock, oem components, as i also have my cdi mounted right next to the coil on both of my banshees. no problems here.
i think where you get interference is with the hotter aftermarket coils.
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Just wondering, is the j&j axle all aliumium? This could explain the 10lbs difference.
yes
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you will gain either way with the cpi's or shearers from the t-5's.
i would go cpi's not because they have "more midrange and bottom end"
what i liked about them on my play bike is they come on sooner and were a bit easier to get back on the pipe if i let off the go button.
and they flat out had more all over than the t-5's i had.
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i would thimk you will lose some bottom end with 39's over 35's. if not, ill sell ya some 35's and go bigger lol.
not if it's set up right..........
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How much compression should I run with +7 timing & 39pwks? Im looking to get a set of 39's or 35's really soon. What the difference in performance going with the 39's over the 35's? Remember this is a cast 421
the one i just put together is an "out of the box" cylinder, really fun little motor.
it has mid/low 170ish psi cranking compression. some 39's will give you more power all over, at least they did on my motor...
if you are having traction issues, sort those out first.
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my experience with the cub cylinders, they like lots of fuel.
39pwks, +7 timing, race gas and let her eat.
get tired of that, convert over to methanol. that stuff is way more awesome than race fuel.
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Thanks guys for the FAST replies!
Do you guys also put a layer of it around the inside of the carb boot before slipping it over the carbs? Thanks again.
I have never seen a need to do that.
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Does anyone know if it is recommended to apply a product such as Yamabond or ThreeBond flexible liquid gasket to carburetor boots to help prevent air leaks? I remember reading this somewhere online, but cannot find it again to verify. Is this a good idea to prevent air leaks from the carburetor boots? Thanks!!
i have put some threebond on (2) of my intakes between the boots and intake to seal up leaks.
dont see why it would be a problem.
now, i can see where using a sealant that is not impervious to gasoline would be a problem.
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hmm i might do that. first ill sync my carbs, and try to get it tuned right.. i had to get a new air screw cause somehow one of mine fell out. so i had to retune both of them. and the weird part is the new air screw can be turned in a half more turn than the old one.i might just get another new air screw to even it out
There is a small spring that fits in behind the air screws. Check to make sure its there.
Chances are, the screw fell out and so did the spring.
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what size mains do you run?
I used a 175 in my drag bike when it was on gas.
Im also using a 175 in this new motor I just built and it seems to like it as well.
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Here is his time. He is not a little guy and it was his first time out on the motor.
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You should notice an increase or decrease in rpm at idle while adjusting your airscrews.
If not, you may have trash in your pilot jet or the wrong size. Good luck....
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Hi guys.
I am wondering on pilot size with porting. Is it common to go up in pilot size when you get a aggressive dune/drag port on a cub cylinder. Whats the best way to determine the pilot jet? how may turns is to much or not enough? My current setup is a 4mill 421, 35pwk, 52 pilot, 155 main and I think the needle is 3 clip and I am running + 4 timing I am at sea level on the Oregon coast running HJR porting
Your main sounds small. Might want to up it if you are running long distances or in real deep sand.
I have the same pilot as you, i think 1.5 turns out on the air screws. Mine is a little rich though.
Sync your carbs and set your idle and you can fine tune your airscrews from there.
I would say you get to 3/4 ~ 1/2 turn out, go to the next size up.
Past 2.5 turns out, go the next size down.
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Use some high temp grease or oil for seals?
i used a high end wheel bearing grease, pack the inside of the seals.
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sorry to hijack but im still a newbie. what is a lock up or sling shot clutch?
A lock up is a device that keeps your clutch from slipping at higher rpms.
It "locks it up."
The slingshot is a type of lock up device.
I have both styles and like each for different reasons.
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Talks cheap.
That's pretty apparent in this thread and all the others similar to it......
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That 660 won't have a chance. Make sure you video tape it. Surf has a slightly modified banshee and I taped him running against a 2010 built Raptor 700R and he pulled him clean. It's a well known fact that Raptors simply CAN'T beat our banshee's unless the rider SUCKS !!
That's a fact jack
Troy
Really?
I used to have a '06 700r that would hand pretty much any bolt on banshee it's ass all day long.
All it had was a PC3, barkers and an intake. Just sayin'.
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Those bolts forward of the drain plug... what do they do? This is the second banshee i have had that has the exact same bolt leaking. What can be done to fix the problem ?
they hold the engine cases together.....
there is a hole above in the middle of the cases, you most likely have something leaking thru there....
what kind of liquid?
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hey guys just got a pair of those adjustable carb tops from fast racing, is there any trick to installing these? like can they go past full throttle or will they just max out inside the carb? any input is appreciated!
also im running 35mm pwk's
unscrew the existing adjusters on your existing carb tops and put the longer ones in.
I had to install a set of these to be able to adjust the slides to where they would open all the way.
I ran out of adjustment with the shorter adjusters and the oem throttle.
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I have a quick question also. I want to do a 4mil too. But i dont have a few grand to spend. So this is gonna make ot so i can do the mod if itll work. Looking around, i see hot rods connecting rod kits. Its for a banshee, its +5mm long rod for 93.99$ my dads good friends with a owner of a local shop, i can get them for actually 80$. So my question is, will it work if i do the long connecting rods, and cut the domes? Or do i have to buy the full crank? What all will it require? Thanks
You need to save up your money. lol
adding +5 long rods to your existing crank will not net you a +4mil stroker. all you will be doing is lengthing the rods. you have to purchase a dedicated stroker crankshaft for whatever added stroke.
you dont need several grand to do a 4mil. fuck that spacer plate shit, port your cylinders and cut some domes for the 4mil.
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cool thanks ! I hate to say this but I might just go pick up the lonestars... Tim is booked up
Tim puts out a really awesome product and he will build you what you want.
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the bike im purchasing has fmfs on it, but if i'd have to beat the piss out of it il just run the fmfs, i like the look of drag pipes is all
out of the (2) exhausts you mentioned, I'd go with the cpis. the shearers come on a little later in the powerband.
what kind of fmfs does this bike have on it? I had a set of fattys on one of my banshees, switched out to cpis and I liked the way it performed.
same thing with t-5s. the cpis felt a bit more torqy to me. and i am assuming we are talking inframes here.
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Those sand snakes would ok for the ocasional dune trip.
A set of skattrak haulers or stu padla brats would be far superior to those.
wcr override
in Product Reviews
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dg, is your buddy evan still cutting transmissions?
i'm still using the one i got from him in my dragster and its a better operating trans than the wcr in my play bike.