spike
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Posts posted by spike
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Bump, this thing's got to go, needs funds for my new rifle!!
try an offer!
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Bump, this thing's got to go, needs funds for my new rifle!!
try an offer!
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here I got for sale a nice swaybar for a banshee, its an older model off an unknown brand, the bar itself used to be aluminum but was bent so i replaced it with a stainless bar. I also painted the arms and scavenged new linkage rods from some spare parts drawers it works like a charm, i've used it for a total off around 10 ice races without an issue, there is a little bit of oxidation on the bare aluminum from all the road salts around here but nothin major. the swaybar bolts trhu the cross member right in front off the rad and attaches to the lower shock mounts by a longer bolt and a few spacers. you need to trim a bit off the front fender to clear the bar. Its might not be a durablue or a fancy rat racing but it will get the job done and put you in front off anybody without a bar garantee! 150$ plus shipping/paypal fees
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I got a set of works Dual rates remote rezzy's, I painted the small spring white and the large spring black, how about 250+shipping from Nova-Scotia. I will send you pics after work if your interested.
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Head, reeds, intakes, pancake bearing, a-arms, cdi,pipes hangers and throttle assy are gone, everything else is availsble. comon guy's make me offers on stuff. I have 2 months to get rid off all of it.
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I'm parting out my banshee. If someting is not listed just ask i probably have it. I will provide pictures on request.
Price are negotiables and if i'm way out to lunch just let me know, I went thru ebay to check the average price off stuff.
crank, jugs. pistons domes. about 20 hours. 1000$ for the kit.
33mm pwk with K&N pods 350$
boss intakes 75$
VF3 125$
billet basket 100$
panckake bearing 30$
noss head 125$
shearers chrome is not in best shape but its good enough for a non show bike.400$
chassis
Wicked +3+1 A-arms 350$
Works dual rate remote reservoirs shocks, black and white springs. 200$
G-force axle 125$
stock swingarm 50$
2 sets of spindles 30$
2001 frame with papers, black 400$
misc
painted white plastics with a white pearl, really nice shine in the sun, fronts are cut 150$
black tank an rad cover, painted as well with a simple flame job, 80$
sway bar 125$
ITP beadlocks front wheels 150$
steel rear rims 60$
set of stock wheels, not in top shape being 9 yrs old 50$ per pair
2 inch extended steering column. 50$
Universal brand protaper style handlebar with clamps. 75$
Kenda knarly rear tires, 70% treads 60$
set of studded ice racing tires 500$
black and white handgards 25$
odi lock on grips, diamond plate patern 15$
homemade grab bar, really nice and strong 40$
seat with gripper cover 60$
shotened, striped down to bare minimum wirering harness with cdi and key relocation bracket. 100$
AC racing front bumper 40$
CDI 75$
pipe hangers 15$
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100% wicked, the rounded ball joint mount gives it away.
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might be cheaper to buy but since you have to use twice as much there is no savings.
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Well, if you just cut the band width, who knows what you'll end up with for volume. Not to mention you've changed the length of the band width as well as the squish clearance. There is a lot of power in the squish clearance. So, with everything looked at, the money put into these engines, do you really want to sacrifice HP and TQ numbers over the cost of an $80 set of domes?
SP
I talking about cutting the combustion chamber not the squish band. part off my question was if i should keep the same overall shape or i go deeper with the same width so i keep the squish intact. its not just 80, cut domes are 100$ + about 20$ shipping and that adds up to about 150$ CAN 2 weeks delievery time...
i guess my question would be how much cash are you going to spend just to make your bike perform less?i'd guess that you could buy enough race gas to run your bike for a while for what you'll end up paying for custom cut domes and an o-ring kit to make it run on pump gas.
now if your converting back due to availibility of race fuel then i guess i can see why you would want to do it but i personaly would just run the 50/50 and leave it as is....
I`m getting rid off it and its a turn off for buyer around here if a bike can`t run on pump gas.
Talk to Dave Noss, or dlnoss on the board here. He can answer questions like that for you, and cut domes if need be.Yeah I was thinking that too, just wanted to know if anybody had a quick answer last night, I`ll give him a call. Oh and thanks for giving an answer instead of an opinion... I dont really care what poeple think i just need to cut a set of domes.
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hey I need to get my bike back running on 91 pump gas. right now i have 21cc stroker cutted domes and it cranks 170psi compression. I would like to get back to around 150-155. so i guess a 22 cc should do it. how much do i have to shave from the dome chamber to get em to 22cc? following the same curve? or it the shape will be slightly different in order to keep the squish band width?
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like title says if you got some 22cc cutterd domes for 4mm stroker. let me know
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I use this guide to set the front end on my bike. its pretty sweet and you can set it for your riding style.
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I've never fucked around with floats and I dont think I ever will. I dont see the need of fooling around with something that just meter the amount of gas coming in your carb. unless it pisses on the ground while sitting.
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I run it too in my bike, been running just that for at least 3 years now, my current setup is 170psi, +8 timing. not a problem. there is an engine shop localy that builts racing engines and ship em all across north america and he once told me that it was not the best thing to use but it will work good and is far better that running pump gas. I also heard that AV will stay fresh for almost a year in a gas jug... not that i would ever try it but it sure attest of the quality of the stuff.
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nice boke dude! but I'm sure the honda in the back would walk all over it! :biggrin:
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I also have a passion motor, 4mm stroker 12 port duneport. I Love that thing! Real torquey motor for a shearer piped bike, will wheelie just by giving it gas in sixth, 14-40 gearing. I had a drag ported motor before with my shearers and i didn't like it. bottom end was to shitty so my first plan was to ditch the shearer's and go back to t-5's. Jim told me to stick with my pipes and he would make me a torquey motor with the top end I want. He did not lie. Like wesw said it was a little tricky on the jetting but once I got it dialed in It became an animal. I say go for it we need more Passion nut swingers back on this board! :biggrin:
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Finaly!! found it... yes thats it, when i was removing the clutch basket bolt, the basket fall down and hit the ground so hard and it broke... so that part fell off of the old one that broken. i bought new clutch basket thats way i forgot it..
The Broken Basket:
Basket and Gear:
Thank you guys for the help... i'm fine now i was in nightmare last day
... u guys having fun trying to find parts well my bad, I never seen that gear removed before, so the backside with the two dogs threw it off for me... ha well learned something today!!
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Im positive that its not a banshee gear, banshee trans gears have three dogs, this just has 2...
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I need a throttle housing. let me know what you have and price shipped to canada.
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mesure it, inside bore, engine side.
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check out 4snow's instead they work great!
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dont go race trhu farmer's field and it will solve your problem
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It would be fine but I would not waste my money on one, no need for an aftermarket pressure plate IMO, specialy since the stocker is not even 20$ brand new...
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your title sounds like your'e talking about drugs or something :ninja:
WTB stock stroke cub or dune/drag ported stockers 4mm or stock.
in Wanted
Posted
how about a set off passion 12 port 4mm jugs? dune type porting. pm me in interested.