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Everything posted by mxbanshee
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Here are the Janssen with quad rate Elka's.
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Hey tx, You are totally right! No doubt! The new gen 450's are the king of the MX world. I just want to say that yes... with very deep pockets... AND, a knowledge of bike set-up (Not what pipe or shocks to run but geometry and intricate supension settings)... AND, being in amazing physical shape, one is able to be very competative on an old school YFZ. The old two strokes beat up a rider bad, you spend more time trying to tame the power out on the track than trying to make it in the garage. Here is my winning Banshee. It cost mega to build and requires one strong rider. But, with enough cash, dedication, gym and track time... it is possible!
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Installed tons of mods..good jet to start with?
mxbanshee replied to Stinger's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Hey man, read the Jetting link in my signiture, it'al help ya out! -
Read Jetting link in my signiture, it'al help ya out!
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I don't put anything on my quad that make me go slow... HA HA HA...
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HiPer Tech Makes a 10x10, expensive though...
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how do i know if my jetting is right
mxbanshee replied to gixxer_sixxer's topic in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Hey man, Follow the easy to understand instructions in the link in my signiture! -
59 ft-lb of torque.
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No I only need the red plastic... How would you rate the condition?
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Could I please see some pictures of the RED RADIATOR PLASTIC. I will pay PAYPAL. Thanks guys!
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Click here: TRINITY IS BY FAR THE BETTER HEAD
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Hey man, I'll give ya my 2 cents... First off, I't's a GREAT idea to change your sprockets when you replace your chain. See, chains stretch, and lots. A couple of ways to tell when you need to replace your chain are as follow: Pull one chain link off of your back sprocket, if you can see more than 1/2 the sprocket tooth, replace. Another is to take the chain off and measure it. The distance between 21 pins (when pulled tight) should not ecxeed 327mm or 12.75inches. So, it your going to replace your chain, replace your sprockets. If you wouldn't, the new chain would be damaged by the worn sprockets. O.K., now about gear ratio's. Banshee's are always going to spin the rears. One way to drastically reduce this is to go with a shorter swing arm. I know this is a costly fix and may not be what you intend to do, but if your serious about mega traction on a MX track, this is for you. You said that you like to play on an MX track, and drag race your buddies. Sorry to tell ya that you can't do both at optimum performance. To drag your buddies, and kick their ass, you need tall gearing (I'll explain in a min) and large rear tires (20,21,22). Now for MX you want the exact opposite. You want a "shorter" gear with small rears (18 or 19). I'm set up for MX, my budies smoke me when we opened them up on a long straight, but I really could care less cuz they don't stand a chance with me on the track. You have to decide where you want to be. The good news is that there is an in-between that will perform O.K in both. Here are some things to remember: Larger front sprocket = more top speed, less acceleration Smaller front sprocket = more acceleration, less top speed Larger rear sprocket = more acceleration, less top speed Smaller rear sprocket = less acceleration, more top speed Taller rear tire = more top speed, less acceleration Shorter rear tire = more acceleration, less top speed 1" @ the rear tire roughly translates to 2 teeth on the rear sprocket. 2-3 teeth on the rear sprocket roughly translates to 1 tooth on the front sprocket "Taller" ratios mean more top speed, less acceleration, smaller numerically. "Shorter" ratios mean less top speed, more acceleration, larger numerically. The stock 14, 41, gear ratio is 2.93. if you want a taller gear ratio go down in the number, to a 2.86. O.K. these gear ratios are comming from a chart you can find here: Gear ratio Now to be honest with ya, Yamaha pays big bucks to their engineers for a reason. Using the stock 2.93 is a pretty good happy medium for your kind of ridding. There are many other factors here such as susspension set up, weight of the rider, and tires again. You would be amazed at the difference a tire change can make. Like I said, 1inch at the rear tire equals 2 teeth on the rear sprocket so take this into account when looking at the gear ratio chart. Now about the wheelies. A Banshee with stock gearing WILL wheelie. My opinion is that you need some new rubber. Good Luck!
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Here's another pic...
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Read the jetting link in my signiture, I wrote it up, if you have any questions after reading that post question here I will help you!
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No bead breaker required!!! That is cool...
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Thanks Proquad
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I'm trying to start conversation here... Anybody notice that Gust runs 19in quad rate Elka's with only three springs. Ya, it's like they think that 4 springs is just not needed to get a nice progressive spring rate. This might be something I try... With 4 springs packed onto a shock it makes for a lot of variables to play with. If I try to think like them...we need the Zero Pre Load spring, one weaker progressive rate spring, and one (long one) for the big hits. Comments? Here's a photo... not the best quality...but you get the idea.
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Let's go guys... I know that everyewhere you read, Elka, LSR, and Roll all recomend 4.5 degree Camber and Castor for MX and CrossCountry. We all know these are starting recomendations... Anybody find a better setting for a certain terrain? We would be kidding ourselves to think guys like Gust and Natalie bolt up a front end and run 4.5 degrees all the time. It is these little subtelties that never get talked about. You don't pick up an ATV Sport and read about so and so's susspension settings. I truly believe that at the level of GNC Pro the difference between the top three guys has A LOT to do with suspension settings they chose for that track. Not to take away from certain guys that are just plain better, guys who could win on a stocker.
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You definately have a gearing issue but you could also work on your suspension and ridding skill... read this post on late braking into a corner! Click here: Suspension in Corners
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Read jetting link at bottom... Good luck!
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There really is only one pipe... No kidding, Trinity are by far the best. They put so much testing and engineering into there pipes it is not even funny. Just remember that any company can just come along and make some pipes out of metal, it does not mean that they have been designed, tested and engineered to the fullest extent. Come on... that's expensive. You know, trial and error kind of stuff to match a certain engine. Trinity puts in this time and money. -They are stainless so they never rust -Most horsepower gain throughout the powerband -Use high heat O-rings at the cylinder and along the pipe -Not chromed so you get heat marks close to the engine (looks mean) -No chrome to peel off -AMAZING crisp clean sound By far the best pipe! Click here: TRINITY
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Describe your terrain or track and what's been working and what has not. Just read a cool article about braking late comming into a corner. Most guys like to use the rear brake to help slide the rear of the quad aroud the corner and get you going in the right direction faster. I've always done this too... mostly. Well, I learned that if you use your front brakes, it compresses the front suspenstion, allowing more tire to stay in contact with the dirt at a greater force. Allowing you to turn the quad easier. I guess this is why Elka states that if you are lacking traction, it is generally cuz your suspenstion is to stiff for the track. So I guess we can simplyfy this (or generalize) that the softer a track the softer a suspenstion can be. See, those fancy shocks are for more than just soaking up a landing! There are other things at play here too, it's not quite that easy... Like on a softer track you can run more rebound on the rear, this helps keep the rear in contact with the ground. Anyways... This stuff is fun, let's go. What terrain do you ride? What have you found?
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Thanks guys, I was just getting so frustrated reading all those questions! Figured I give some guys a hand, or at least my 2 cents. Afterall, jetting and suspension setup are the two most complicated (and time consumming) things to dial in. Ah ha, great idea. I'll start a suspension thread... rebound, compression, camber, castor, traction, body roll... all fun stuff! GO HERE: SUSPENTION SET UP!
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Hey fixit, I'm up in Canada.

