Stinger
-
Posts
281 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by Stinger
-
-
Thanks!
I don't know what the hell my problem was with finding them...I must have searched for 15 different word combinations with "ebay" "peg" "footpeg" "extensions" and such...never got it to find what I was looking for.
-
I saw a thread on here about some damn nice looking peg extenders with kickups on ebay. The guy had to make his own spacers but said they where a hell of a deal. Now I want to buy some but can't find the thread, nor can I find them on ebay...anybody know what I'm talking about?
I just spent 20 minutes searching for the thread and I'm getting pissed...
-
Typically it's 155-160psi...anything more requires pump gas.
-
-
Yeah...here's what I figured out.
Install the long pushrod, grease the end, then the ball, more grease on it. Then put the top hat looking pushrod together like shown in the last pic only make sure to 1) have the small washer that comes with the bearing between the bearing and pressure plate and 2) put another small washer on the outside of the pressure plate between it and the lock nut.
As for the adjustment, You are "supposed" to adjust it so the two arrows (one on case, one on clutch arm) line up but Jeff says he adjusts it so the arm is pointing about 1/4" past the arrow on the stator side. To adjust, install the top hat looking pushrod and then grab the clutch arm and pull it towards the clutch, when it starts pushing on the pushrod is when it should be lined up with the arrow (or 1/4" behind as mentioned above). This makes up for the variance found in aftermarket cables and such.
Now, if that was confusing enough, ask me again and I'll try to straighten out the confusion...
-
Well shit, I've been out of the loop. I just got off the phone with Jeff and he informed me about this get together.
My motor's been apart for like 2 months but it's mostly put back together. Just waiting on one last part. If the wether clears up soon enough for me to tune the new combo, I'll try to make it down there. It's not looking real promising right now though...
-
Well, Jeff called me and got it all squared away...
-
OK, I'm trying to put my motor back together. Everything was going smooth until I got to this part:
I am installing a F.A.S.T Racing clutch setup. Jeff also sent me a "pancake bearing" to prevent the ball from welding itself to the pushrod. Problem is, I don't know how the new pushrod/bearing/locknut/adjuster setup goes back together. It's quite a bit different than the stock setup.
Here are the parts I'm working with. New pushrod/pancake washer on the left, old pushrod on the right:
Now I "think" it goes together like this and then the pressure plate is slid over the whole assembly:
Problem is, you can't adjust the clutch mechanism adjuster once installed like this because there is no longer a way to keep the pushrod from spinning when you turn the phillips head adjuster. The bearing allows it to swivel.
Also, the stock setup shows a washer behind the lock nut but mine didn't have one when I took it apart. Do I need a washer with the new setup or not?
I've called Jeff a few times but I'm just getting the answering machine. Anybody care to enlighten me on how to install and adjust this stuff?
-
This was some funny shit...
0-60 stock is 6.0 seconds according to some article I read...can't remember where I saw it.
-
I only live 2 miles off I-70 between Salina and Hays...you drove right past my area. I hadn't heard of the crash though I did see the skid marks today...I'll let you know if I hear anything about it...
-
"Cost" on a new frame is only 350 or so...I'd have to look it up again. If you've got a hookup at the stealership, that's your best bet.
-
Hard to say without seeing the exhaust port, transfers, and knowing how far the tranfers and exhaust are from the top of the cylinder...there really isn't much to see in the intake ports...the power is in the exhaust and transfers.
-
I dunno, I've got a piped 99 CR 125 and my banshee (pipes, cone filters, reeds, 20cc domes, +4 timing) will just barely outrun the CR to 60mph...after that the CR is out of gear so the Banshee runs away...this is on pavement btw.
-
I got a swinger from him about 3 weeks ago but he hasn't replied to my emails or PM's since I got it...I don't know if he read them or not.
-
Will these "require" revalving or will they be available for stock valving as well?
I'm only 135lbs and run mine on +2 lonestar arms...any what would work best for me for MX and big jumps?
-
Could it be that your running +2 arms with 450 shocks. I just put +2's on my shee...with works fronts set up for stock arms. I am bottoming out on everything...in fact I just landed on a rock and took out my brake pedal and water pump cover. Id hate to think about what would have happened had I been 6 inches to the left.
Anyway, if you have +2's, you need suspension for them. Im not sure what the 450's are set for....you would have to measure the arms on a 450 and find out what banshee's are.
Well, I would imagine that does make it where I have to adjust the springs a little harder to compensate. I'm only 135lbs though so it helps. I'm only adjusted about in the middle for compression right now and don't have much preload so I don't think I'm "maxing out" the 450 shocks yet...
Thanks Ruko, I found it...that is exactly what I was looking for...
-
I looked all over their site and couldn't find that...I thought it might be in the owners manual page but it was a dead link...
Here are the Bike tuning links I was referring to earlier:
-
Here is a case of me bottoming out...doesn't seem all that extreme to me...top of second gear, ~35-40ft in the air...~4ft off the ground...
-
I've been looking for a how to article or solid info on how to dial in your suspension on quads. I've found motorcycle articles that explain it in easy to understand terms like "if the rear is bouncing over woops, soften this setting" and "if the front is bottoming out on triples, increase compression".
Does anybody know of a site that explains this type of info for quads or want to take the time to type it out? I know it will be similar for bikes and quads but I know quads also have to deal with tuning the suspension for good cornering as well.
A specific question:
If you are bottoming out on large jumps with flat landings, is it better to increase preload or compression?
-
I rode one just like that not 2 weeks ago and I was not impressed. They are in no way a "race bike" or anything close. Trail riding is as far offroad as I'd take them. The suspension felt the same as my old 1979 175 Honda (soft and bouncy) and the power was about like an 80cc 2 stroke...and I'm only 135lbs so I can't imagine how bad it would be for someone larger.
if you are just looking for something to put around on, it would be great...if you actually want to jump it or anything...find something else.
My buddies 05 CRF250 is a whole other story...
-
In most cases yes, it's bullshit. There is a octane booster from Torco that actually works though. It's very popular with the turbo/supercharger guys that don't want to run race fuel but need the octane. I've used it in my Turbo Mustang with great success...over 20psi on pump gas + 1/4 can of Torco Race Fuel Concentrate.
-
-
-
Okay I got the shocks.
What tool can I use to loosen the large flat nuts on the top of the spring to shorten the shock.
A coilover spring adjustment tool works pretty well...I got mine off ebay for like 15 bux...
Peg extenders with kickup on ebay...
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
Yeah, I contacted them about it as well and they said it says in the auction to specify if you are using them on a banshee and they will send double spacers and longer bolts...