DigglerD

Don't have one of those... unless you meant "Camaro"

Is it? I have 3 prices out there (to get it into three areas of CL. I just put the price from whatever ad I clicked. If I posted it lower somewhere... I'll clearly take that. (It's just assumed that if you post a price someone who was willing to pay more will ALWAYS ahggle you on it) My bottom is 3500 no haggleing. Is that fair? I firgured stock it's worth around 25-27ish and I easily have $2k into the shocks and a-arms alone (only two rides since new). You tell me.

$3800 obo

I'm in Cali.. 2-strokes after 2001 get a red sticker that means they can only ride certain times of the year... air quality control If you got a green sticker... free game!

Pics at http://losangeles.craigslist.org/mcy/129642364.html Less than two rides on most of the upgrades (got to fix up my 68 Camaro and looking to get an M1A)! Those who emailed... buyer fell through so this ad is back up. I am selling a 1997 Green Sticker Yamaha Banshee on fresh Engine / Trans. You can call 408-393-7612 for more details or a look... Here it is, if you know what a Banshee is, then you know exactly what I got and that it is worth way more than what I am selling for. I am selling because money is tight and I can

There was no white smoke... come to think of it, no smake at all but the mixture was 40:1, plugs looked fine... I will check the oil for water. Yes, I know that all too well. Mine broke off flush as well BUT the other piece fell into the case and destroyed my trans hard parts. That's the reason for the rebuild in the first place. It's there now.

Yep it's overheating... I can tell because performance goes strait to the dumps (snap... crackle... pop...) and it's all I can do to get the thing back to camp. In addition, th shifter is not ...kinda loose. It's just plain sloppy as in, I often can't shift because it had a lot of movement before it hit the shift star.

I just rebuilt the motor on the Shee and expected to have a pretty fun weekend at Pismo, however about 10 - 15 min into my ride my shee would overheat. This happened consistently (day and night). Pismo is at sea level and I am running 310 jets with the needle as high as it will go. I have FMF fatties, K&N, no air lid box and the plugs look fine. What should I be checking here? I have heard the stock waterpumps do very well but my bike is almost stock. In addition, my shifter has a LOT of play in it even though I just put in all new tranny hard parts and a new shift star. What do I need to be looking at to reduce the slop? ANy help is big because I am lost.

Are you going in the case? I need the shift engagement thingie (it makes contact with the shift star to change gears). A shift drum and forks... let me know!

So after getting into it (splitting the case) there were two things going on. 1) there seems to be some sort of threaded stud being used as a stop. It was all the way in and preventing the forks from coming inwrd to hit 1st. That solved the first gear problem but I still have no clue whay this stud would be in there simply to block the forks. 2) the forks bind on the shift drum when sliding orver it through the gears. Fork 1 binds on 3rd and fork 2 on 4th. Everything seems in tacts, the drum spins true and the forks don't look bent... why is it binding?

I took it out to Pismo a while back and on day 2 it would not shift out of 2nd gear. After removing the covers I can see that the basket is wrecked and the clutches burned up a bit. HOWEVER... the shift star looks fine but won't seem to shift. What went wrong? Is this a simple one? I don't want to have to split the case.

At $450 they do not come with Rezzies and are non-adjustable. I took them out this weekend and I can say it is a HUGE difference from the stockers before. I was having problems with my shee and still didn't want to take up offers on using others bikes, it was that comfortable. Hitting jumps was much better, I landed the bike on 1 front corner hard and the suspension just ate it up but did not bottom out. Before, I would consider ditching on these types of landings because the bike usually wants to take me out... This weekend was exceptionally busy at Pismo but I was still able to ride through the tired crap sand without getting arm fatigue. I have not ridden anything other than stockers, but I was happy with the Elkas...not I just need to get the shee to catch up to them.

Big diff between $300 and free...

Put mine on last night and will let you know after next weekend. They cost me $450 from Elka direct and only took about 9 days to get em.

PM me your addy and I will figure out the shipping costs. I can't send until the weekend b/c I work and go to school. Yah, I thought twice about the lights but I have nowhere to store stuff once I pull it off. I also tossed my stock stator, handlebars, aarms and misc other things. I do still have an extra timing plate still sealed from Ricky Stator as a new one came with my new stator.

Sorry, just re-read that you needed a +2. Sucks man...

Was it a stock axle? I just replaced mine and will send you my stocker for the shipping costs... Too bad I didnt read this earlier, I just tossed my stock lights this morning too...

What's the torque spec for putting the flywheel back on?

On acceleration

Also, can I get away with running these caps with everything disconnected for the weekend?

I had the banshee acting up las weekend at pismo, it would pop and sputter every now and then...would this cause that? The ebrake was already disconnected...

I did a serch for TORS removal and got confused when I saw two different kits. One is idle screws, a drill it and tap. Theother is al that plus new cable and caps. Which kit do I need? In addition, my carbs already have idle screws but the TORS is still hooked up. Do I install two more for a total of 4 screws? I added pics of what I am looing at.

Quick note form the law student... In the interest of being honest, you made a few mistakes. He was not happy with what you sent and usually would have the option of getting his stuff back. If he is unreasonable, he should be paying shipping. If you misrepresented the parts, you should be paying the shipping. What really happened on this and the represented condition of the parts is between you two. As far as the arms he sent you being shot with you cleaning them up and buying parts, if the remedy is that you get your stuff back and he gets his back, it's your fault that you put the money and labor into the arms and its unreasonable for you to expect him to pay for that. If you recieved the parts in a less than acceptable fashion, you should have rejected them exactly as he did. It's too late for that now. As far as the whole transaction goes, you got the parts second hand, never used them and was more than happy to spend out of pocket to buy more to send when he didn't like them. This seems somewhat fishy to me as most wouldn't spend a dime to replace stuff they knew to be good. It seems like there are a lot of signs of a troubled deal here but it's too late to heed them now. You are engaged in a deal with this man who currently has nothing so in the interest of good faith you are obligated to answer his calls even if they are a game of merry-go-round. From my perspective, I would say you are dealing with someone who is picky with what he recieves but not with what he sends, it's become problematic because he has a problem with getting bad parts while you did not. The best solution is to go back to start and cut loose of each other. With your investment that's tough, but he can not be held fiscally liable for what you decided to do before the deal was closed. As to the others on the board, you seem really quick to pass judgement on an issue before you even have the story. Bashing a complaint because the person has 100 posts less than someonelse is pretty shitty and unfair. I'm not taking sides, I'm just noting how some do when they don't even know what's happened. And I'm out...

Cool, where do I get one? Part number?