AUSSIE BANSHEE

Thanks guys, Looking forward to a ride this weekend, hope I can concentrate on the trail in front of me and don't spend to long looking at my trail tech. Happy riding

I also had the same trouble. I found that just one stroke of the master cylinder and then crack the bleeder worked best for me, i think if you keep pumping it it sucks the air backout of the other line. Slow and steady, just do one side at a time. Good Luck.

Hi Guys, What is a normal coolant temperature for my shee. I have just fitted a Trail Tech Vapor and i want to know what is normal and when i should shut it down. No major mods just pipes, reeds and jetting. Standard timing.

I have just bought a Trail Tech Vapor. I am chasing some advice for wiring, the instructions supplied are generic for a couple of models. My main question is regarding the RPM. Has anyone wired straight to the orange wire at the coil or is the wrapping of the ignition lead a better way to go. Any input will be greatly appreciated.

NGK IRIDIUM ARE THE PLUG TO USE. TWO YEARS HARD WORK IN MY SHEE STILL LIKE NEW

I STILL HAVE THE STOCK A-ARMS ON MY SHEE, DOES ANYONE EVER BOTHER TO LUBE THE BALL JOINTS, IFF SO WHAT GREASE DO YOU USE?

DEFINITLEY MY FRIEND, MOST JET KITS WILL COME WITH ALL NECESSARY JETS AND NEEDLES TO GET THAT THING FLYING, THINK I USED DYNOJET KIT FROM MEMORY WITH PRO CIRCUITS, REEDS AND SPACERS. ALL INSTRUCTIONS AND TUNING GUIDES COME WITH KIT. DON'T RIDE IT WITHOUT JETTING YOU WILL KILL IT.

I HAVE BEEN RUNNING THESE PLUGS IN MY SHEE FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS AND HAVEN'T TOUCHED THEM, ALWAY USED TO CARRY A COUPLE OF SPARES IN MY PACK, NOW I DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT ALL THAT EXTRA WEIGHT. BUY A SET AND BE DONE WITH IT THEY DON'T FOUL.

DO YOU STILL HAVE THAT STUPID PARK BRAKE SET UP ATTACHED? IF SO I WOULD BUY A BLOCK OFF KIT AND PULL THE CALIPER APART AND FREE IT ALL UP, MINE USED TO CHEW UP PADS IN 2 OR 3 RIDE UNTIL I DID THAT

YOUR GEARBOX MIGHT BE BUILDING UP PRESSURE FROM THE CRANKCASE, HOW OLD IS THE ENGINE?

I POSTED A COUPLE OF WEEKS BACK WAS HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING SWINGARM PIVOT BOLT, THANKS FOR THE HELP . I TRIED EVERYTHING RECOMMENDED BUT ENDED UP HAVING TO DRILL THE BOLT OUT ON BOTH SIDES UNTIL I COULD CHISEL THE REMAINING METAL OUT AND REMOVE SWINGARM. QUICK TIP FOR ANYONE WHO DOSN'T WANT THE SAME PROBLEM, PULL THE BOLT OUT (WHILE YOU STILL CAN!) AND DRILL A COUPLE OF SMALL HOLES IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BOLT THROUGH TO THE CAVITY, PUT A GREASE NIPPLE IN BOTH ENDS OF THE BOLT, PUT IT BACK IN AND GIVE IT A SQUIRT. HOPE IT COMES OUT AFTER THE NEXT WET SEASON. I ALSO PUT A GREASE NIPPLE IN THE SWINGARM ITSELF SO I CAN LUBE THE BEARINGS TO. HOPE IT HELPS SOMEONE!

THINK I MIGHT HAVE TO TRY A SLEDGE HAMMER , THIS BITCH IS TIGHT!

HAVING TROUBLE REMOVING MAIN BOLT FROM SWINGARM BOLT IS LOOSE AND SPINNING BUT CANT GET IT TO BUDGE ANY IDEAS?