feti68

I took the top-end off and replaced the bottom gaskets and the o-rings because I saw some oil around the exhaust ports. It's still revving like crazy. I didn't see any oil around the head gasket so I didn't take it off. Could there still be a leak in the head gasket that I can't see?

I think I found the problem after I inspected the cylinders for cracks. Somehow my right cylinder where the reeds connect there's a minute 1/2 inch crack and it's split out so you can nearly see inside. I put some JB weld on it temporarily to see if that helps. Once it cures I'll try it out. Does anybody happen to know if the JB weld will hold once the engine gets hot?

The slides are not down completely. There is a minute gap maybe 4mm that I can see. Also, I did have one of the TORS housings apart when replacing the throttle cable originally because I wasn't sure which side I had to open. Also, when I put the choke on the revving does go down which does make me think it's getting too much air to begin with. But the question is where? Can I spray WD40 around the carbs to find out? The screws on the caps of the tors are all the way in and the left is slightly out more in order to sync the carbs. The throttle cable near the lever is screwed 50% in and if I push it in any more it will attempt to rev high. It just doesn't make sense why such a minute turn in the throttle cable near the throttle lever would make it go from non-idling to over-revving

I cleaned out my carbs as suggested by Dextreme. My pilot jet in the left carb seemed to be clogged so I blew out whatever was in there with compressed air. I put the carbs back in. But I'm getting high-revving even when I'm not pressing the throttle lever. The carbs are synched and the idle air screws are 1 1/2 turns out on both. Over the past few days I've installed a new throttle cable, clutch cable and clutch lever. I don't know if anything in the throttle cable housing at the top could have anything to do with the over revving. I noticed that the TORS does have some connections inside, which may be part of the problem. I'd also like to do an air leak check and am wondering what I can spray on the engine that won't erode any of the gaskets. I only have WD40 handy, but I don't think that's too good of an idea. Another thing I find odd is that if I turn the throttle cable in up near the lever, that's when it starts to rev high. But when I turn it out it won't rev up at all unless I press the lever. But the difference is not gradual as you might expect. It's a tiny twist and it goes from not idling to over-revving.

J.J., Should I disconnect at the TORS box itself, or inside or around the TORS housings above the carbs?

Gee, thanks for the intelligent reply. Note to self: Have vito's ship TORS elimination kit to me in less than a day so you can make the big riding trip. Ok, it's been noted. I know what a TORS elimination kit is. However, it's a bit hard to get ahold of overnight. I'll just put the old clutch lever back on for the time being.

I installed a new clutch cable and lever. I had to cut the wires leading down to the TORS. I twisted them together and caked on some electrical tape. However, my shee will idle but I can't rev it up. It's acting the same way it would as if you just remove the parking break and don't compress the TORS switch by the clutch lever. What should I do? I don't have a TORS removal kit and I didn't know if I could simply cut off the wires leading straight to the TORS boxes above the carbs.

Thanks guys. I'll be cleaning out the carbs tonight most likely. I'll keep you updated on the issue once I track it down.

boonman, Thank you for the quick reply. It is appreciated. Yes, when I installed the throttle cable initially a few weeks ago I did unplug the choke cable between the carbs and didn't realize it. But it's been plugged in since. The carb sliders are installed so the side with the arch cutout is facing the air box on both. So when the sliders are down I see a bit of the needle through the arch. Is this incorrect? Could they be in backwards (if so I'm a dumbass, obviously). Originally when I ran the bike last november it was smoking a bit more out of the right pipe than the left, as if they weren't sync'd right. But I did resync them when I put the new cable in and haven't really been able to notice if one is smoking more than the other because it hasn't been running.

Notes: The quad hasn't been ridden since November and it's been suggested that I clean the carbs out, which I plan on doing. My right TORS screw will not tighten or loosen. It simply spins indefinitely and I haven't had a moment to open it up to check it out. I'm assuming when I installed the cable that something got disconnected. I will check this out asap. I just installed a new throttle cable a few weeks ago, but haven't had time to ride the quad. Problem #1: The shee won't idle at all unless I adjust the throttle cable near the throttle lever itself. When I tighten it in the engine revs insanely high. I have to loosen it to get it to die down, which in this case it won't idle at all. I have to keep giving it gas. So, my question is what are the possible reasons for it revving so high with such a minute adjustment in the cable when twisted. I would think that it would slowely allow it to idle higher and higher and less of a steep curve directly to high rev. Problem #2: When I have the throttle cable loosened so it won't idle and I ride it, it sputters oil. It seems as if it's getting too much gas and oil and not enough air in this case. Is there a possibility that this is related to the throttle issue or the fact that the carbs need cleaned out or even that the TORS screw isn't working properly? Any help is appreciated. Thank you all in advance.