quadguy214

Hi, I've never been happy with the braking performance of my banshee's standard front brakes. I have just serviced them with new seals and fluid etc. The disc rotors are in good shape but still the brakes are pretty crap even with new or the old part worn pads. I want to keep the brakes standard but wondered if there is a brake pad which offers the best braking performance (i'm not worried about wear rate, and if they only last a few hours) Thanks

Anyone use a TRINITY 2 into 1 carb kit on a RD/RZ YPVS Banshee ? If so does an alternative needle to the stock DEK work better ?

Thanks guys

Hi, Got some reed cages/reeds that I wanna sell on ebay but not sure what make thay are. Can anyoune advise ? Thanks http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d71/quad.../reedblocks.jpg

Yeah, I'm looking for a banshee tranny but $250 sounds high. I've seen 2 on ebay recently go for around $150 and someone else on this forum has offered me one for $150 INCLUDING shipping to UK.

Hi Anyone got a used single carb conversion kit they wanna sell like the one Trinity does? http://www.trinityracing.com/products/yama...nsheecvkit.html Thanx

Hi, Am looking for just the internal shafts (x2) with all the gears for standard banshee gearbox (transmission). Anybody got any for sale in good condition, if so how much to deliver in UK. Thanx

Yep it is the Wiscombe venue. I only live 20 miles away in Exeter so handy for me. Anyway onto piston analysis. Have been on the website: - http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html Left hand piston when failed usually looks like picture 'BURNT-OUT BLOW-HOLE' although it has never actually holed, but almost and the picture otherwise is identical to what I have found before. As for the right hand piston it usuall looks a little overheated but last time it started to show evidence of a 'FOUR-CORNER SEIZURE' This has helped me clarify and identify possible causes that have already been mentioned by others and suspected by me.

If like me you run an RD/RZ 350 engine this site is useful for information although it is mainly aimed at the road bike. http://www.yamaha-rd.com/forum/

Cheers again Rare for the info. Got more 'essays' to write yet on info so maybe I'll PM you direct. The 8 hour endurance race is a a one off event organised by QRA (Tony Nash) and Ride-It (a fairly new club set up here in the south west). Ride-It have previously held some really good events and had some British Champ rounds with Winrow and the likes racing and I'm sure all the top boys will be at the 8Hr. I must say my current fitness level would prevent me from completing a 3hr enduro let alone 8hrs, but you can do a 2 man team event (with either 1 bike or 2)taking it in turns whenever you like. Also although it is a competition, the emphasis is on FUN. High price entry fee (

Rare, cheers, got loads of info to chew on now. Wil get back to you with answers to above and have more ideas/variables to throw in the pot ! It'll be some time before I can actually try new settings carb etc coz frame at powder coaters, then lots of other jobs to do as I put it together. The engine itself is ready to go. Hopefully shee will be up and running 2nd week in August, then need to get it run in and running cock on ready for 8hr endurance race at end of August. Think I'll get a spare engine ready to swap in the pits You coming diown to sunny Devon for that !!!?? (Great 8 Endurance).

Rare, thanks for you interest/input. Have tried to answer some of your points below :- 1. I do run with tickover. The thing always starts easy (first time with little or no choke) and will tickover for ever. 2. I must say that the right piston has shown signs of overheating and probably not far behind left piston from destruction. 3. Don't know anything about leakdown tests ??? 4. Still confused with plug range ? I thought the lower the number the colder it runs (i.e. less overheating) I have had advice from Stan Stephens previously and I

One other thing I forgot to mention. The last time the left piston failed, when I dissassembled the engine, I found that the FMF reeds on the left hand cylinder were severely damaged and been blown back through the reed cage towards the carburettor. Trouble is, did the reeds fail first the casue piston to fail or the other way round !??

Yeah I've also done the same some time ago and removed the thermostat.

Sorry for rambling on !! Yeah the oil feeds to the carbs are plugged.

Yeah do sometimes use it for MX and not so much of a problem due to shorter duration of racing say 3x 15/20 min races, but during endurance (3hr) events usually when the problem happens although it did blow for the first time at MX. It is always the LEFT hand piston (5 times now !!!) never the right. I don't have any pictures but on the crown (top surface) of piston at the front looks as though the piston material has melted/crumbled away usually exposing the top surface of the top ring. It doesn't actually seize proper. Have completely rebuilt the engine several times with all new crank case seals and all rubber boots etc have no cracks in the on the inlet so I don't think I've got air leaks. Back to spark plugs - the RD engine that i have should run a BR9 as standard but I know a stock Banshee engine uses BR8. What effect would going even lower have say BR7 ? The engine has always failed at WOT not between 1/4 to 3/4 so its gotta be down to the mains. I don't hold it WOT for very long, just for a few seconds. Now after many trials I am inclined to think it actually may be on the rich side which is not as bad as being lean but can still cause overheating of the engine when its being thrashed. My next steps are simply to use NON-POWER jet carbs with say 320 mains and BR8 plugs. Also I am wondering, is it simply a cooling issue ? With the RD engine being raced in a quad surely it doesn't get the same cooling effect as when used in the road bike (due to slower speeds) Currently using standard banshee rad and standard water pump that is fitted in the RD engine (pump also recently serviced). The cylinder head is standard RD YPVS. Maybe get oversized rad, or inline cooler that fits in the hose (but can't see that they do much) and/or cool head.

I should point out that the original RD carbs that I am using are power jet carbs. The power jets are 55/50 and add to the main jet (260) when flat out giving 315/310. These have cause me no end of hassle and am going to try a set of non-power jet RD carbs with bigger main jets. Just wondered if other RD/RZ engine users have used the power jet carbs ?

I just done exactly the same job on my Banshee and hope you don't have the same problems that I did. Your're right it is a 30mm across the flats (internal) of the bearing retaining ring. I got a nut that fitted inside the retainer but had to weld another nut (slightly smaller) on top of it to enable me to get socket and torque wrench to fit. Even then I could not shift it. Tried everyting WD40, heat, hammer etc !!! but still could not get the damn thing out. In the end all I could do was drill out the complete retaining ring with a 44mm hole saw on electric drill. Obviously that has completely screwed me up for replacing th retainer with a new one so I've had to get a local machine shop to make a bearing retainer (top hat shaped) that will have to be tack welded once in place. I designed this retainer to incorporate a dust seal but not the original one that gose on top but is the same as the one on the underside. If you get the same problem and you want, I could give you a copy of my CAD drawing. Hopefully it will work but haven't got it back yet to try it !!!!

I've tried searching for threads on here about Banshee owners running the RD/RZ350 YPVS engine, but the search doesn't come up with much. I've had my shee for 18 months and it already had the YPVS engine fitted. Now I have much experience with this engine and know it inside out including the electronics etc, BUT i have always had a problem setting up the engine. It always starts well, runs well, pulls well, but the engine just doesn't last long enough, it will usually blow within 3 hours !!! I have tried hundereds of variations of jetting, but to no avail and lots of expensive rebuild. It usually overheats when really cained. Details:- Engine - RD350 YPVS (F2) 1WT approx 1990 Carbs - Mikuni 28mm, Pilot jet 27.5 (stock), needle clip 2nd groove down (stock) main jet 260 (180 stock) Power jets 55 stock left hand 50 stock right hand carb Exhaust - FMF Fatty front pipes, Power Core 2 silencers Air box - standard with snorkel removed and hole cut to rear of lid Filter - standard Ignition timing - standard non adjustable Reeds - FMF fibre Plugs - was using BR9EG but going to try BR8EG Anyone else got any experience ?

5 mins was a bit of exaggeration, but they don't last long. Regards jetting, that is a bit of a subject for me coz my banshee has the non standard RD/RZ 350 YPVS engine fitted and finding info on setting this engine jetting up correctly is difficult. To make matters worse this engine uses POWER JET carbs as standard, so the main jet is smaller than usal to start with coz there is the extra jet (power jet) incorporated which adds to the main jet when flat out. Getting the jetting sorted is a problem. I've done loads of trials/changes but have always had problems with early engine failure.

I run FMF fatty pipes on my Banshee, but the stock 'o' rings that seal the pipes onto the cylinder outlets are crap and only last about 5 minutes. Want to get some VITON high temp seals for longer life. Does anyone have dimensions of 'o' rings ?

Hi Does anyone on here run a banshee with an RD/RZ 350 YPVS engine fitted ? I have this engine fitted in mine (i bought it like this) and after owning several RD/RZ 350 ypvs's some years ago, I know the engines/electrics inside out. It also has the powerjet carbs fitted that were designed to go with the powervalve engine in its original application. The problem is this: - My banshee will run fine in a straight line or when taking right hand bends, but when it comes to left hand cornering (especially if they are long sweeping flat out corners), the power depletes as if the engine is suffering from fuel starvation. When the quad straightens up again, it is ok, and like I said, right hand corners of any description are not a problem. When used on two wheels, obiously the engine leans with the bike and via centrifugal force the fual in the float chambers proabably stays fairly evenly angled in the float bowls. With the quad however, the engine/carbs remain relatively level even when cornering which has the effect of throwing the fuel in the float bowls more heavily to the left or right when cornering. The only thing I could think of that may have caused the problem was the power jets, these are additional jets fitted in a pipe that connects the float bowl to the carb. These jets are located on the right hand side of each float bowl and when left hand cornering, the fuel is thrown to the right forcing it through these small power jets rather than the main jet. So I thought, lets block off the power jets so that the carbs act like standard banshee carbs - THE PROBLEM STILL PERSISTED which I really can't understand. ANY IDEAS