JasonGOSU

yep, completely cut each plug after each change of the jets.

McDonald Pride Racing on the East Coast ported them I pulled the choke when when I was riding, and it bogged all the way till it hit the powerband. The choke didn't seem to have any effect at all at WOT. So, maybe if I put a bigger main and lowered the needle, raising the clip, see what happens. But the thing that gets me is that the tan ring shows up on a 138 and when I go bigger it starts to color the insulator more. And I assume at WOT the needle is completely out of the main. Am I wrong about the needle being completely out? maybe I should have just had passion port them. I'm thinking the porting isn't drawing enough air to pull a 150 or bigger main.

Thanks WESW, I thought the main was too small. But after doing plug chops, the tan 2mm ring showed up at the base of the insulator, So I figured the main was good at 138. I thought the main was small, but I figured that maybe my porting wasn't pulling as much air as others. The pilot is a 48 and the needle is a DGK and it's in the middle slot. So, my questions were if I was at a 138 would a pilot effect the main a whole lot if it were real big? Would the needle position effect the main enough to make it 5 or 6 sizes too small? Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

thanks for the replies, but the questions still haven't been answered. They were answered for me on another website.

does anyone else have any info?

Mods: 4mm crank, ported, 35mm pwk, T-5 pipes, v-force 3, pod filters, cut domes, +4 timing, sea level, 80 degrees. I'm at a 135 main and have the nice tan ring around the insulator. I pretty sure the pilot is fat and the needle is in the wrong position. I can't start it without giving it some throttle. It sputters down below until about 3/4 throttle. It cuts out when I crack the throttle real quick to full throttle, then it comes back. Will the porting effect the main this much? Will the pilot have much effect on the main?

I was told by my builder that the cubs are great cylinders for drag racing but not for duning. He says the reason being is that the cubs a nikasil lined and the stock cylinders have a steel sleeve. The nikasil lined cylinders cool down quick and that means you have to warm up your bike everytime you shut it down for a few minutes. The steel sleeves keep more heat it and that's why it's better for duning, because most of the time you scream around and then stop to talk to your buddies. Any truth to this?

My crank broke in the same spot. I rode my 4mm for about a year before it broke. The builder I bought it from stopped buying from Wiseco, said they wouldn't fix the cranks. Luckily he's fixing mine as we speak.

Anyone know where to get TZ bearings for the banshee?

I bought a wiseco 4mm stroker crank about a year ago. It had 180psi in both cylinders. I ran the stock carbs, stock reeds, 4+ timing. I took off hard in 2nd gear then shifted to 3rd when I heard a backfire. I shut of the banshee and checked the engine. Tried to kick it over a couple times and nothing. I found out that the crank had broken on the inside of the case right at the bearing on the flywheel side. The guy I bought it from has apparently had a bunch of the cranks break in the same spot and wiseco will not take them back. He's going to turn me a new shaft and press it in. Has anyone heard of the this? Does anyone know the cause of it? To me, it looked like some bad material that they made the shaft out of because I can't imagine my banshee producing enough force to shear that shaft.

Where exactly do you press to get this back plate off. The heads of the rivets have been ground off. I anyone can help that would be great. Just tryin' to get this done before this weekend.

I've got a replacement stock clutch basket with no gear. This old one has a broken finger but the gear is good. I would assume I need to grind the rivets off the old basket to remove the plate holding the gear on. Then apply the gear to the replacement clutch basket and weld the plate back on where the rivet studs come through. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.

After seeing meat's post I decided to polish the cylinders and cases. I tried to post a pic, but couldn't. Does anyone have any ideas about how I can keep these cases and cylinders shiny without having to polish all the time. I was thinking about a high temp. clear coat. Has anyone tried this? What do you guys think?

I'm looking for a stock clutch basket in decent condition. Let me know if anyone has one they are willing to sell. Thanks

elevation is sea level and 60-70 degrees

I need some help for a starting point for jetting. 4mm stroker, ported, 19cc domes, stock reeds, 26mm carbs, T-5's, Dual K&N, 4 degrees advance. Thanks for your input.

I called Toomey today. Very nice service, but they do not send anything for free. The O-Rings are 3.00 a piece. My mounts are starting to go also and those are 12.99, not free.

There's an O-ring that is between the end of the silencer and the silencer tip. Is this a special O-ring or can I use a regular O-ring?

Guys, Just wanted to thank you for all of you input, it has been much appreciated. Jason

Guys I'm coming to you because I'm sure you have the answer. I know some of you have a 4mm short rod stroker motor. Here's the dilema. I've been told by the guy who is porting my cylinders that I need a spacer plate and can use the regular coolhead domes. The guy I bought my short rod crank from tells me that the stock portiming should be left alone and all I need to do is use stroker domes. He also states that putting a spacer plate on top of the cylinders and using a regular 19cc coolhead dome will create detonation and usually eats through the seam where the head and spacer meet. I've read in here that the port timing does need to be changed. I need you guys just to tell me how it should be done so I can get it back together. Thanks for your help.

I'm looking for a clutch basket. If you're selling one, please e-mail me at [email protected] or post a message.

I have a set of 19cc domes and I'm building a short rod stroker motor. There is a machine shop next to my work and the guy will cut my domes for free. Problem is, that I don't know if there is anything special about cuting .80 off of them. If anyone could tell or show me in a picture how to cut them I would appreciate it.

What needs to happen to the ports for the timing to be correct for this motor? Can I use my stock 26mm carbs and jet as it will go? I was just wondering if these carbs are going to be able to supply enough fuel. I realize it won't be the best set up for this motor, but for now it will do.

I've read all the postings about these 4mm strokers. But I don't think I have my questions fully answered. I want a 4mm short rod stroker motor. After talking with Trick Racing, he told me I could just drop in a 4mm crank, use my stock 350 pistons or get new ones, cut the domes .80, and do nothing with the ports. Is this correct before I go ahead and buy the parts and put it together? Thanks for your input.