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Tim C

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Posts posted by Tim C

  1. Like olmick said don't expect a big difference in power if any between the DG's and the FMF's. If you go with the Gnarlys you will probably lose some topspeed because they're a midrange pipe but you will definitly gain on the bottom end. The Fatty's will have about the same topend as the DG's and is a very good all around pipe similar to Toomey pipes. If your set on FMF pipes I would go with the Fattys unless your going to MX the bike want bottom end and not concerned with the top end power.

  2. I like both, but i think that the R6 Tl looks super clean.......how tough was the install?

     

     

    I made a couple of brackets to mount it and connected the wires. My Banshee is a 1994 so it doesn't have a brake light The R6 light has 3 wires so if you have a brake light you'd hook up all three but without a brake light you only hook up 2 wires.

     

    It's a LED light so they say they draw less power then I regular light but I don't know for sure but I haven't had any problems with it

  3. I bought a Miller 175 MIG and I love it - It works great, easy to make nice beads and it will weld up to 1/4" thick metal with 1 pass so very seldom would I (or most other hobbiest) ever weld anything thicker then that. All the square tubing for my utility trailer was only 1/8" thick.

    I never use my stick welder anymore because they are alot slower to weld with and a pain in the ass to use compared to a good MIG.

  4. 65mm Cub, welded crank (w/RZ bearing), CPI pipes, 30mm Dial-A-Jet carbs, VForce reeds, Coolhead, PD intake manifold, lightened flywheel, Barnett clutch, Vortex basket, Durablue +4 axle, Elka front shocks, OMF beadlocks etc. etc. Too much money into it for the little bit of time I have to drive it

  5. I have a 350 cub w/21cc domes so I can run pump gas in, it has 30mm carbs CPI pipes VForce reeds etc. I didn't have to spend any extra money to set it up for that just the usual clean up port and a set of domes.

    It does have a very narrow powerband but I trail ride it, It's a handful because you you never go if it's going to spin or hook up and stand straight up when you get on the throttle but it's a fuckin' rush like nothing else I driven.

     

    Lots of throttle and lots of clutching

     

    So yes they CAN be trail driven but NO they probably aren't the best but they sure are fun! If I wanted a smooth powerband I would have bought a 4 stroke

  6. Mods and bling factor alone that duncan bike is worth the 1300 extra. You will have to put some stuff into it for a dune machine but you can take the parts off of that Duncan bike and break even or even make a profit. Just make sure to get the recipts for everything. Also see how many bores are left in the cylinders.

     

    Your Crank is already trued and welded witch is a huge plus! You could sell that for a couple hundred and get a stroker crank and a dune port for about a grand or so. You already have the coolhead intakes and carbs. Less if your going to sell parts off of it. Frame Tires Air Box/Filter ect.

     

    Paul Turner triple chrome plated pipes with Fat Boy 2 Silencers- New they are around 900 w/ the tripple plate showroom chrome. If they are in really good shape you can sell them and get brand new or close to new (Chrome) T5s, CPIS, Shearers, GRR, Rockets ect for duning/drag

     

    Remove that air box if your going to be duning. Ill buy it.

    Sell the old Chassie. Ill buy it

     

    Roll Design front Gullwing extended A-arms powder coated blue- If they are +2 sell them and buy quicksand +3s and pretty much break even

     

    Roll Design Swing arm powder coated blue -1 - Roll Design makes top notch products so you could probably sell it and get a +4-8 Ebay swingarm and break even

    Plus you have the shocks already on there so that will save you alot of $$$$

     

    You can always switch out the smaller domes in there now for 21cc or 22cc for 70 dollars and run 93 pump gas

     

    Also includes 2 front and 2 rear ITP Hole Shot knobby tires on blue anodized rims- Ill buy them!

     

     

     

     

    Why should he buy this bike then strip it down and buy all new stuff - the bike is set up very well as it is

  7. As far as EQ's go they are another way to distort a clean signal...

     

     

    I wouldn't call an EQ a way to distort a clean signal but a way to adjust it to make it sound the exact way you like it. I can turn my EQ off and have it run just through the deck and it doesn't sound anywhere near as good.

     

    Also I find myself adjusting the bass level different from satalite radio to a CD and alot of times from one song to the next because of the amount of bass in songs is always different.

  8. I use an equilizer to to adjust the bass - it has a bass level adjuster so it's very easy to set the bass exactly how you like it........not like having to go through BS in the stereo menu. I have it mounted in-dash right below the deck and it will control 3 amps - front, rear and sub. It acts as a cross-over for the subs also but not not really much of an issue anymore because most amps have Hi-pass and Low-pass filter switch on them now

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