BaddBanshee

Hey all. I have a 98 banshee with a Pro Flow air intake filter adapter. I beleive the filter setup was installed in California right after bike was bought in 1998. I am trying to locate JUST a new air filter for it. The filter is dual stage foam, (red outer, yellow inner), cylinder shaped, tapered, and has large coil spring inside the filter element to prevent it from sucking together. It has 3 3/4" inside diameter rubber mounting flange, and is held onto aluminum adpater by single large hose clamp. It is 6 1/2 " overall length. This filter was on the quad when I bought it and I thought it was a Uni. I have visited all the local bike shops, and have called many 4-wheeler parts places and checked various web sites looking for replacement. Called Pro Flow and he claimed the adapter I have is for K&N type filter but has had this foam element installed onto it. The current design Pro Flow kit (for a foam filter) has much different filter with 2 hose clamps, is not tapered, and has much smaller mounting flange. There is no way it will fit onto my adapter. K&N has a filter with dimensions I might be able to use but it is not foam. If anybody can identify this FOAM filter and better yet, locate a source for it, I would be grateful. Thanks

Took measurements of the exhaust port and called Race Logic - determined cylinder has been ported - the exhaust is not as wide as the widest part of the template but is more flat on the top edge. After discussion with Race Logic decided to just leave exhaust port as is for now. Putting one port job on top of another does not seem like good idea. I am going to do the intake windows just the same and take what gain I can get. SANDSTAR = How did port job work out with thses templates that you did? Happy with it? Seems like the intake windows get opened up a lot huh? Did you open the widows fully as big as the templates? Note: This quad has always ran like hell, I am just re-ringing the top end and couldn't help but do "a little more" while it was apart. Thanks for input Am listening for any more info offered...

The top of the exhaust port is 27mm from top edge of the cylinder all along the top of the port. It is not trianguler shaped like the template. There is no lip around the exhaust port. I have 310 mains and running at sea level. I bought it used - already had mods when I got it. (Toomey T-5's, Cool-Head 19cc, Uni Filter, 1/4" reed spacers, boost bottle, TORS removed) There has been some amount of work done to the ports - I didn't do it however so can't be sure just what has been done. Thanks

This question is directed to those who have used the Race Logic Sport Port Stage III SuperStock templates. I have placed the exhaust template in the cylinder just to observe. Here is the concern: All along the very top edge the template partially covers (overhangs into) the opening of the existing exhaust port. The exhaust port (now) is basically an oval shape with just slightly larger near the bottom of the port. The edge of the template at the top protrudes into the port but only about 1mm. Between the very top and the outside edge of the port the template overhangs into the port much more, about 2.5mm. Is this normal or should there have been more material there? I am beginning to think the exhaust has already been ported to some extent I bought this bike used and the owner did not really know what had all been done to it. The intake tunnel & windows have definately been smoothed and radiused, as well as the entrys into the transfer ports. So on a normal "STOCK" cylinder would there be grinding required on all sides of the port to reach the lines from the template? This quad has always run like hell on wheels ever since I had it..maybe this is part of the answer. Thanks for any input

Does anybody have the UNI part number for the 2 stage foam filter to fit a pro flow adapter. Filter has approx 3 3/4" round rubber mounting hole, is about 6 inches long and tapered (cone shaped).

The clymer book and factory manual are both wrong on coil ohm checking.

I just had the same thing. Use a cape chisel and you can carefully fold the race inboard to collapse it. (A cape chisel has a rounded back side and the cutting edge on opposite side. It will not damage the bore so the new bearing will fit ).

ledofthezep - from reading other posts on stator failures I took a stab in the dark on mine & bought a new one but that didnt fix it. The gap on the pulse trigger was checked twice before stator replacement and again when new stator was installed. All the ohm checks for the stator always checked OK by the book but that is not a dynamic test of stator output so it is not that definitive. br98 --> I dont know that this really is a jetting issue for sure. I have swapped out all the ignition parts except the cdi box and am trying to decide if I should replace it. As you probably know they are about 300 bucks. I guess its reasonable to assume some SLIGHT jetting changes could be expected over the life cycle of the top end as the flow dynamics change due to engine wear. This bike has been set up with mods listed since it was 5 days old in 1989.

All the TORS stuff was removed or disconnected by previous owner. The boxes on top of carbs are gone and the little control box by left exhaust is disconnected. No water in air filter, no fuel out carb overflow hoses either. Problem has creeped into it over time - slowly. Its now just too bad to live with. This bike ran perfect when I got it and I have not modified or changed anything outside items discussed in this post. Thanks

Ran this weekend and the needle adjustment did narrow the range of the sputtering but it is still there. (Banchetta - I stated needle adjustment backwards on previous post - I LOWERED the needles - raised clips). The clips are now in the very top position on the needles. All other functions (idle, WOT, etc) feel unchanged.

OK - I adjusted the needles 1 clip position - tube between carbs present, undamaged and connected. Will ride this weekend and see change from needle position. Thanks

The air filter is clean - this problem does not appear tied to air filter condition as it will happen either dirty of not. Even in dusty conditions and riding with a pack of other quads, my filter stays pretty clean (read that as the Banshee is up FRONT of the pak - yuk yuk - you guys know what I mean Im sure!) I will go ahead and raise the needles (lower the clip) and just see how it does. With no TORS clutter clip adjustment isnt too bad of a job. Thanks All

Thanks for the response. More info = When the sputtering condition occurs, you can add throttle, (smooth & slow or fast & aggressive, doesnt matter), and the sputtering continues without significant change. When the throttle is opened the needles are raised (along with slide) thereby allowing more fuel in. I find it hard to believe the magnitude of this problem will be affected by needle clip position. I might not have been clear on the severity of the problem here. This is not a funny little flat spot in the powerband, once it gets into the sputtering mode it will not drive thru it no matter what you do unless you drop down 2 gears and rev the engine to 8k and dump the clutch. Also...this problem is almost impossible to duplicate for the first 30 - 45 min of riding, and once it begins doing it you have problem the rest of the day. I, like you, have been mostly of the belief the CDI will be either good or bad, runs or it dont - no in between. There is something very wrong with this bike that eludes me though. I think the cdi has variable timing curves programmed into it depending on rpm. I wonder if something isnt going wrong inside the cdi when hot that screws up the mid range without affecting the low & high speed. Lost & staggering now ---> Soon to be Sitting in the corner Drooling Thanks Again

I have a 98 Banshee with Toomey T5's, TORs removed, Uni-Filter, & Coolhead (unknown dome sizes). I bought it used about 1 year ago. It was in mint condition and ran perfect under any/all conditions. Now it has grown into a problem of the engine sputters and misses under mid throttle load when warm or hot especially. It will always start easy, idle perfectly, and rev to the moon smoothly at wide open throttle. If you are cruising along and slowly add throttle (to accelerate thru the midrange) it will just start sputtering and slowing down. You can downshift, rev it up, and it will accelerate perfectly thru all remaining gears at WOT. I have already changed the stator with a new Ricky Stator replacement, 3 sets of spark plugs, coil & plug wires (OE), as well as 2 different sets of plug caps. If you pull out the choke part way when the sputtering occurs it does not help the problem, in fact it actually makes it a little worse. The reeds are ok, the carbs are clean, and the compression is the same as when I got it (approx 140psi each). I have also checked for a possible air leak thru crank seal and found no problem there. I believe this is an ignition problem and NOT a fuel/jetting issue. I am left with no place else to go but to buy a CDI box. I dont mind buying CDI IF it fixes the problem, but dont want to spend any more $$ for more parts that it doesn't need. Any input appreciated - sorry for long post but wanted to offer all data I know about it. Thanks