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Big Blue

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Posts posted by Big Blue

  1. I would build a 4mil supercub. Gonna be real close to the same price as a 7mil standard cub. It should be a great duner motor, tons of torque. And you pick up a few cc's, 443 versus 472!!

     

    The 7mm should make mort tq than the super cub will there is only a marginal gain over the regular cub.

  2. lockup just keeps from lettin the clutch slip. if you plan on dragging you need to get at least a duneable override cuz its gonna be hard gettin it to shift fast. i run lockup on my 10mm cub that i hillclimb and it works great. but i also have a duneable override..

     

    My 4mm cub was alot harder to shif after I put the lockup on.

  3. You're gonna get a million answers on what the cubs are and are not good for.

     

    I trail rode today, in a little mud and water...and I 100% hated it. No traction with knobbies...either on the pipe or locking up the brakes, more often than not the latter....

     

    Here's the dilemma...

     

    If you want a cub to run to it's potential....you build it as a drag and dune bike. Forget the trails.

    We're talking 35mm or larger carbs....top end pipes, i.e. Shearer, CPI, Rocket, GRR, etc.

     

    Or...you could choke it down a little by keeping your pipe and carb setup.... It'll be ok, but...In my opinion....it's still gonna have a lot of power that is unusable on trails...

     

    I went from stock carbs and T5 pipes to RDZ/Shearer inframes and 35PWK...and...I'm not done. Pretty soon, alky, over ride tranny, lockup clutch, etc.

     

    Since you do a little bit of everything, here's what I'd suggest.

    Get a trued and welded 4 mil long rod crank, get a good dune port to match the new crank (port timings change) run the 795 series pistons, cut and mill the head. Then, pickup some 33 or 35mm carbs.

    I think that would be a better all around package than a cub setup....for all around riding like you said.

     

    It would be more power everywhere, better torque, but...it wouldn't be out of control for the trails...and still pretty reliable.

     

    This hasnt been brought up in a while so I will stir the pot. If you want a superior cylinder buy the cub and have it decked down to bring the port timings to a more tame level........... this should get some stuff going.

  4. You buy the cub for the stroke you want they are cast in stock, 4mm, 7mm, 10mm and so on. When using a long rod crand you will need the pistons to go with it. With the cub you will not need to use the dome cut for the stroke the cylinder is cast for that already if I remember correctly.

  5. You should contact a builder instead of trinity or alba you will get better advise and more than likely a better built motor. Try looking around on planetsand.com also.

     

    patriotracing.net

    a&s racing

    rdzracing.com

  6. i would run 50/50 and switch to 40:1

     

    Why do you say that?

     

     

     

    baddshee I guess I should ask how much is being milled off? I know people with 30thou taken off and they are still on pump fuel, porting will lower your compression also. When I had my dune/drag ported cylinders from passion I was running 18cc domes and only had around 170lbs on each cylinder. 32:1 will be fine if that is what you want to run, I personally run 927@ 40:1 but it is all your choice when it comes to that.

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