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Been talking about it for years. Been planning it out for months. Time to get started. THIS BUILD WILL TAKE SOME TIME. I work on the road and will be doing all the fabrication in the spare time while I’m home. Sometimes for 2-3 days, sometimes for 2 months. The goal: build the best chassis I know of and give it more power than it will ever need. It will be a high-abuse build. I will rape it in the woods, I will roll it in the dunes, I will case it on a track, and I will be letting others ride it. I refuse to build something where I feel like I need to bring a 48” game box full of tools everywhere I go. The chassis: YFZ450R -Xcel lower subframe w/rail modified stem location -Walsh long travel arms w/modified shock mount -Walsh MX swingarm -my pull rod design -Evol RC2 w/Evol mod by BNR -Podium RC2 by BNR -extended and dropped stem flag -LSR stainless axle -Walsh subframe -Rath bumpers and monster peg nerfs -Walsh stem -Walsh stem clamp -Mika Metals CR-Hi bars -Behringer master cylinder -WC full clutch setup -Imprint grips -DWT MXR-V3 on DWT beadlocks -Maddie Razr Cross fronts on DWT rims -Galfer lines and rotors -Precision Elite steering stabilizer The engine: -Redline ported race gas 4mil serval -CPI SBIF -VF4 -33PWK -94whp @ 9400rpm -51.2lb.ft @9100rpm -Redline pro mod trans -Chariot water pump and basket -being rebuilt atm. Immediate problems: 1. There is no rear engine mount in the frame. OEM runs the swingarm bolt through the rear of the 450 engine itself. Part of the frame is cast aluminum. Using 4943 filler makes welding cast a little better, but I still try to avoid it if at all possible. Solution: 7/8” .120wall 4130 where the 450 bracket was. Weld a support to the rear mount for the banshee engine. Not optimal, but absolutely doable. Front engine mounts will have to be beefy as a result. 2. Pipes. I’m using CPI for this build since I already have them and they performed very well on this engine. However, I have wildly insufficient room to make them fit. Again, I’d have to hack part of the aluminum chassis off and make a new piece from scratch to weld back to the cast aluminum section and then bolt to the lower frame rail. 2b. Pipes will stick out way too far. It’s easy, but it’s poor craftsmanship. To tuck them in requires a different radiator location altogether. 2c. Arlan is a busy man. He will get my business one day, but this build at this time isn’t going to allow it. Plus, $1700 for a set of pipes (reasonable, honestly) when I already have a set, shipping both ways, and months of downtime aren’t in the cards atm. Solution: remake the entire front aluminum section from 4130. I can save about 4-5lb this way, create a way to actually route the pipes, mount the radiator(s) wherever I want, and it will be stronger. I will have to cut the pipes in at least 5 places to make them fit. 3. Radiator. Won’t fit anywhere. Neither the 450 or banshee one. Solution: I will have to order a core and make the tanks. I’ll also have to run a fan since it makes the power it does and since it will be an all-purpose build, so a DC conversion will have to happen. Will be thick as hell. I may have to run two. 4. Filters. Pods sit directly between the shock and frame rails. Solution: stainless tube to move them back. There will be some necessary shaping to make them fit. 5. Tank is a fuel injected one Solution: block off the pump hole. Fortunately, the lowest point in the tank sits PERFECTLY for the pingel to have a good location. 6. Kicker. Likely will interfere Solution: cut and weld that hoe. It will not be a quick build. I could do it in a week, but I wouldn’t trust it to stay together and I wouldn’t take pride in it. Will post pics and updates as I remember to. I will try to be as thorough as possible and provide every detail I can remember. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk