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as you have already learned, prep, prep, prep. thats the first step. i wouldnt be super concerned with anything that doesnt come off with aircraft stripper. i used that stuff on cessna/bell aircraft, and thats the only time that its necessary to get it all off, because every ounce of paint counts for weight. other than that, if it doesnt really want to come off, even after roughing it up a bit, its stuck on there good enough as a good base for coating. 120, is a tad rough, unless you are getting ater some rust. if you have bare metal, you should have some metal prep/etch to get it bonded good (which may be included in some primers) and this brings us to the next step. primers. choic of primer needs to match not only the topcoat, but also the substrate, and the method. for instance, if you are going to just spray and spray, like with a completely bare frame, epoxy primer is an excellent choice for primer/seal coat. however, if you need a primer/filler (in other words, you are going to sand/feather, you need a filler/sandable type primer) also pay attention to the flash/topcoat time. some need it coated in color before or after a certain time frame and not in between (temperature/humidity specific) and some only have a certain period before it needs to be cured, prepped and resprayed if you miss that window. some products also get a bad name because nobody does the proper prep (certain rustoleum products, etc) but if done right, they can yield decent performance. also, you want to consider compatibility of the top, and under coatings. acrylic and lacquer enemels, etc. many will absoultely not adhere, or have a reaction when applied in an uncured state (either pre-cured, or recent treatment. this is probably one of the larger reasons why your primed pieces had a better effect. acetone, and grease remover are your friend. so is lacquer thinner, but that is not so great when you dont actually need it for things like cleaning your paint guns, etc. 220-400 are typically your prep grits, unless you need to do some heavy stuff, like cleaning rust pits out, or using body filler, but you shouldnt need that on a frame component. i dont know what your budget is like, but eurothane/epoxy coatings cna be the next best thing, or even surpass powder coat.

Does it still have the park brake setup on it? If it does, back out the PB screw adjuster, then readjust the park brake after you have bled it .

i dont know what you are looking at, but im looking at thumbnail quality pictures that dont show shit.

same thing for a lot of 90s imports and other caliper integrated park brakes, so keep that in mind if you run into a brake job ans see dowell holes or slots in the piston.

OH WOW !!!! Guess I should have proof read that first...lol... Sorry for the misprints.

Lol.. I have the exact same sheet, with the exact same issue.. Doing a complete restore. So just don't have the extra cash to powder coat at this time.. Basically just painting to keep parts from rusting. I'll powder after build is done and I get a few rides on it. Your paint hid is only as good as the prep work underneath it. What brand of paint are you using.. IMO.. Rustoleum is the absolute WORST to use. Just make sure to remove all old paint and rust. Sand with 120 grit paper.. Then MOST importantly..clean surface.. I use 50 to 70 % rubbing alcohol. Cause it's cheap, drugs quick and works good. DO NOT use 90%. It leaves an oily film and paint comes right off. After cleaning, DO NOT touch parts with bare skin... Now prime.. Once dry...sand primer with 180 grit paper.. Clean again and paint..that's all there is to it. Unless you want a very shiny coat.. In that case, you would want to lightly scuff the paint with RED scotch bright, clean again and then clear coat....I had to repaint all of my parts 3 to 4 time till I got all of my mistakes worked out .... I tried a couple different ways, but finally got advice from my brother-in-Law.... Which has been painting cars for many years. Good Luck.

Step one: run what ever oil you want Step two: Mix the gas 1 gallon of oil to one gallon of gas