new wiring harness

[racer]

im currently working for a local bike shop with a well stocked service department, and im going to exploit it for their terminals kit. i want to redo mine entire wiring harness. ill have the tools to reuse evrything i have to, and the pieces to use new stuff when i can. but im wondering, what wire should i use. i dont really wanna spend too much using multicolored stuff from the factory (the only parts i need, that we dont stock in bulk). but what colors do i need? i figure since im going to be using it, and have zero intention of selling the shee that i could get by wire 4-5 colors, of say 16 gauge wire probably?

 

i would have to label everything very clearly, but thats no big deal. plus i can rewire for new lighting systems, and remove stuff like tors that i dont need.

[racer]

ttt

[BenBB]

Yep you can do it with 16ga wire, you only really need:

white/green

white/red

red

green

black

orange

black/white

 

That's just to make it run; the yellow wire from the stator can just be taped off, then you have the five from the stator to the cdi (black, green, red, g/w, r/w) and then black and an orange going back up to the coil. That's no kill circuit though, when you ground black/white it signals the CDI to shut off the ignition (supposedly better for the CDI than grounding orange at the coil even though that works too I'd prefer grounding b/w). Black/red from the CDI needs to be connected to black to run (the key switch circuit, it'll tell the CDI to turn off if it ISN'T grounded).

 

I built my RZ harness from scratch and it's not that tough, I used GM Weatherpak connectors and it came out pretty well, one thing I would recommend is to make the stator connector able to go through that hole in the case (oops). Anyway I think I still have a wiring diagram online that shows a minimal harness, with a wiring circuit (you can add that and a volt reg later it all runs off the yellow wire from the stator, well and you'll need grounds for the lights too)...

 

 

Oh yeah, obviously you don't HAVE to use the same colors, as long as you know what color goes to what it doesn't really matter (I had a hard time finding short lengths and stripes too, subbed like yellow for g/w and orange for b/w, etc.)...

[racer]

you are just the man i wanted to respond to this!

 

any ideas on how much wire i will need? if i can come up with the 7-8 different colors ill do that and print off a legend or something.

 

this should be trick. now how am i going to run it through the frame? lol

[Justintoxicated]

Yep you can do it with 16ga wire, you only really need:

white/green

white/red

red

green

black

orange

black/white

 

That's just to make it run; the yellow wire from the stator can just be taped off, then you have the five from the stator to the cdi (black, green, red, g/w, r/w) and then black and an orange going back up to the coil. That's no kill circuit though, when you ground black/white it signals the CDI to shut off the ignition (supposedly better for the CDI than grounding orange at the coil even though that works too I'd prefer grounding b/w). Black/red from the CDI needs to be connected to black to run (the key switch circuit, it'll tell the CDI to turn off if it ISN'T grounded).

 

I built my RZ harness from scratch and it's not that tough, I used GM Weatherpak connectors and it came out pretty well, one thing I would recommend is to make the stator connector able to go through that hole in the case (oops). Anyway I think I still have a wiring diagram online that shows a minimal harness, with a wiring circuit (you can add that and a volt reg later it all runs off the yellow wire from the stator, well and you'll need grounds for the lights too)...

 

 

Oh yeah, obviously you don't HAVE to use the same colors, as long as you know what color goes to what it doesn't really matter (I had a hard time finding short lengths and stripes too, subbed like yellow for g/w and orange for b/w, etc.)...

 

Ahh Theres teh Diagram I was looking for. I'm re-doing mine as well but going to re-use as much as possible. Really just want to eliminate the TORS. The Diagram does not really show where it is conected though but hopefully I willf ind it when I unwrap everything.

[BenBB]

you are just the man i wanted to respond to this!

 

any ideas on how much wire i will need? if i can come up with the 7-8 different colors ill do that and print off a legend or something.

 

this should be trick. now how am i going to run it through the frame? lol

 

That's what I did, have several pages of hand-written wiring diagrams for the RZ. Depending on how you locate things, you'll only need like 3' or 4' of each color (stock CDI location), a little more for the kill circuit and the ground circuit to reach the bars. Get extra if you can, like 10' and you won't run short.

 

I thought about running mine through the frame too heh, seen 'em do it on choppers and makes for a damn clean look, just don't know if they have little rubber grommets where it goes in or what they use to keep the wires from shorting out against the metal. Anyway just lay it all out and route it how you want it, measure twice and cut once; you can use that plastic wire loom or electrical tape in different colors to keep it all together, supposedly zip ties are bad mojo for wires because of rubbing issues but as long as they aren't too tight they work fine (the stock frame hanger things work well too where the wires get close to the silencers/stingers). Don't forget at least one eyelet terminal to ground the harness to the frame, oh and you can use just off-the-shelf female spade terminals (solderless or crimp-type) for the two wires at the coil, I found some decent hooded ones for a relatively weatherproof connection...

 

 

Ahh Theres teh Diagram I was looking for. I'm re-doing mine as well but going to re-use as much as possible. Really just want to eliminate the TORS. The Diagram does not really show where it is conected though but hopefully I willf ind it when I unwrap everything.

 

Yup Justin you'll see it if you unwrap the whole harness, the TORS stuff is pretty much separate, probably uses the common ground that runs through the whole harness (kinda cool how Yamaha does the ground). The stock wire itself and the connectors are pretty decent, I'd stick with those unless you have access to something better.

[racer]

solder and vibrations are a no-no. or so i hear.

ill have heat shrink by the roll when i do this, so its gonna look super clean, and i might just have some rubber grommets left over in a cheapo harbor freight terminals kit.

[Cotton eyed Joe]

On getting the wire in the frame, that might be an easy deal depending on where you're going and where you're starting....

 

I've done that here at the shop on a few things, and all you have to do to get started is drill a hole big enough for your wireloom, deburr it with one of those Vargas tools if you have one, put a grommet in, then drill your exit hole. Put a piece of string in the entry hole, put a shop vac to the exit hole and feed the string through. After that, tie your wire to the end of the string, pull the string on the other end, and carefully feed your loom through the frame. Just make sure you aren't scraping it on anything. I think the tubing Yamaha uses is DOM, but I'd still be careful incase there is a welded seam in the tubing.

 

Once you have everything in place, double check your grommets, then use a bit of silicone to seal them up now that you have a place for water to get into and rust your electrical connections and frame.

 

If your bike doesn't start one day, I'd check continuity there first.

[racer]

the vacuum cleaner is an awesome idea. thanks stan.