Dick Wheels Posted June 18, 2008 Report Posted June 18, 2008 Ok, I just received my new 35mm PWK and and replaced the 34pj I havent been able to get jetted correctly. The PWK came with 160 main, 48 pilot and DEK needle. I started with stock settings except bumped up to a 185 main and studderd at mid throttle. So i moved down to a 175 main and did the same thing. Tried a 170 and did the same so i went back to the 160 it came with and got much better. I leaned the clip out 1 notch so now I'm in the 2nd from the top instead of the middle and seems to be ok. Ok as in it finally revs threw out the entire rpm range. For a single carb setup this sounds pretty lean to me. What do you think? I don't really have a good starting point because when I got the shee it wasn't in drivable condition and had 2 34mm pj's on it and ran like crap over the entire rpm range. Those had 175 mains, 58 pilots and cgj needles in the middle. Thank you to everyone who has helped out and continues to help. This thing would have been long sold without you guys and this site!! Quote
Snopczynski Posted June 18, 2008 Report Posted June 18, 2008 If you have a midrange stumble, why would you lean out the main jet? You adjust the main jet= top end first. Then adjust midrange=needle second. Quote
okbeast Posted June 18, 2008 Report Posted June 18, 2008 If you have a midrange stumble, why would you lean out the main jet? You adjust the main jet= top end first. Then adjust midrange=needle second. mm hm and second from the top (blunt end) would make it richer. I'd say put in a bigger main and then start adjusting the needle from there. Quote
Dick Wheels Posted June 18, 2008 Author Report Posted June 18, 2008 Ok. So basically put the main back to about 185ish and continue to lean out the needle until the mid throttle stumble/studder goes away and it revs up fully? Quote
Snopczynski Posted June 18, 2008 Report Posted June 18, 2008 Revs fully????? Achieving full rpm is the main jet, anything between 1/8-7/8 throttle is the needle. You need to adjust the main jet, then adjust or change the needle. Quote
okbeast Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 Do a search for doing a plug chop on here, that'll tell you how to dial in the main jet, then work on the midrange. Quote
Dick Wheels Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Posted June 19, 2008 I'm sorry but carbs and jetting was never my strong point. Anyways what i mean by finally reving out is before you would hit mid throttle and it would just stumble and studder and never wanna get past that point. and now after the adjustments i have made that i stated above it actually revs threw the entire rpm range instead of just getting to mid throttle and thats it. I thought that when you raised the clip on the needle ( moving it away from the pointy end) that you were leaning it out because in turn you are putting more needle in the main and allowing less fuel to run threw it. Quote
okbeast Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 I'm sorry but carbs and jetting was never my strong point. Anyways what i mean by finally reving out is before you would hit mid throttle and it would just stumble and studder and never wanna get past that point. and now after the adjustments i have made that i stated above it actually revs threw the entire rpm range instead of just getting to mid throttle and thats it. I thought that when you raised the clip on the needle ( moving it away from the pointy end) that you were leaning it out because in turn you are putting more needle in the main and allowing less fuel to run threw it. Yes you're correct, I just didnt quite understand how you wrote it so figured I would try to clear it up for ya. Quote
Dick Wheels Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Posted June 19, 2008 ok, so if my DEK needle wont go lean enough to get rid of the spit and spudder which needle do I choose? If I am looking at the needle chart, do i choose the next leaner needle in the same column which would be a dgk or do i need to go with a cgk or cek? Why does this have to be so confusing? Makes me wish I just put slightly smaller duals on it. Quote
okbeast Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 I'm no pro at teh needle chart, hopefully someone will chime in that knows what they're lookin at, or i'll study it some after work. As for going leaner, are you sure it needs that? Sometimes a spit and spudder can be caused by not enough fuel. Quote
okbeast Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 And keep in mind changing your main jet size changes what your needle does as well. Quote
Snopczynski Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 what does ti do with the needle at full rich? Quote
Dick Wheels Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Posted June 19, 2008 what does ti do with the needle at full rich? do u want me to test that and tell u with the 160 main thats in it or a richer main? Quote
Snopczynski Posted June 19, 2008 Report Posted June 19, 2008 you should be putting bigger mains in it till it gets slower, then backing them off so you know you have the right size first. Quote
Dick Wheels Posted June 20, 2008 Author Report Posted June 20, 2008 (edited) thats part of the issue, it seems im so far off with the needle that no matter what i do to the main it still runs the same. And I cant tell if it gets "faster or slower" because the bike falls on its face at mid throttle and spits and spudders so it never will rev beyond that point. ive tried a eej needle with mains between 170 and 205 and even a cgj needle with mains between 170 and 205 with no luck. I bought the new 35mm pwk and it came with a 160 main and dek needle and still did the same except it does seem better now with the clip on that needle in the 2nd position (almost fully lean) and the 160 so thats why i think i need the leaner needle Edited June 20, 2008 by Dick Wheels Quote
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