brake help

[92toyotaboy]

I just put new brake pads on the rear and after 1 ride the brakes are shot. I hardly even used them. Whats gone wrong????

[2001Stroker]

I just put new brake pads on the rear and after 1 ride the brakes are shot. I hardly even used them. Whats gone wrong????

Whats not working about them? I don't know how much fourwheelers need, but automobiles need the brakes broke in, for them to work properly. Did you replace the pads AND rotors? Whenever you replace pads, do the rotors, also. The rotors get grooves in them, from the pads. Did you get them really hot, and then hit a mud puddle or wash it? This will cause them to warp, bad. Alot of times, brakes have to be broke in. If you just put them on and then use the hell out of them, they glaze over, due to not being broke in. When they glaze they will squeal and/or simply not work very well, at all. Again, this is how cars work, and I'm guessing that bikes are the same. Tell us what exactly happened.

[92toyotaboy]

i only put new pads on because the rotor is fine. The inside pad (closest to the cylinder) has normal wear but the other pad on the outside is almost at metal again. Theres only 5 hours on them and I don't brake hard. I did wear them in properly.

 

Please Help between this and the bogging im going to loose my mind.

[92toyotaboy]

help

[2001Stroker]

i only put new pads on because the rotor is fine. The inside pad (closest to the cylinder) has normal wear but the other pad on the outside is almost at metal again. Theres only 5 hours on them and I don't brake hard. I did wear them in properly.

 

Please Help between this and the bogging im going to loose my mind.

When you release the brake, is the caliper releasing all of the pressure. Maybe the caliper is sticking, or there is buildup in the line, causing it not to release all of the pressure. The master cylinder could also be sticking. Or, the spring that pulls the brake pedal back up is weak or missing. Another common problem with brakes, all of the pressure is releasing, but the caliper isn't sliding on the pins. Whenever you take off a caliper, put anti-seize on the slider pins. Brakes are real simple, especially on a fourwheeler. It would be easier to tell you what it needs, if I were there. Trial and error is probably your best method. I would start cheap.

 

1) Unfortunately, you're definitely going to have to replace the pads, AGAIN.

2) Put a new rotor on it. Or, if it is still thick, just have it milled. Only have enough taken off to make it straight, and no grooves in it.

3) Anti-seize the caliper's slider pins.

4) Personally, I would replace at least the line. (Go with stainless braided, with some kind of plastic coating over it)

5) Bleed the system.

 

Afterwards, jack up the bike, so the wheels are off the ground. The rear axle should spin freely, with the transmission in neutral. If you want, drop the chain off, and spin it. There should be almost no resistance. Hit the brakes a few times, and try it a bunch of times. If they're still sticking, then the only things left to replace are the caliper, master cylinder, and the return spring. I know it's mostly common sense, but sometimes we just have brain farts. Hopefully, this helps.

[bansheejoel]

When you release the brake, is the caliper releasing all of the pressure. Maybe the caliper is sticking, or there is buildup in the line, causing it not to release all of the pressure. The master cylinder could also be sticking. Or, the spring that pulls the brake pedal back up is weak or missing. Another common problem with brakes, all of the pressure is releasing, but the caliper isn't sliding on the pins. Whenever you take off a caliper, put anti-seize on the slider pins. Brakes are real simple, especially on a fourwheeler. It would be easier to tell you what it needs, if I were there. Trial and error is probably your best method. I would start cheap.

 

1) Unfortunately, you're definitely going to have to replace the pads, AGAIN.

2) Put a new rotor on it. Or, if it is still thick, just have it milled. Only have enough taken off to make it straight, and no grooves in it.

3) Anti-seize the caliper's slider pins.

4) Personally, I would replace at least the line. (Go with stainless braided, with some kind of plastic coating over it)

5) Bleed the system.

 

Afterwards, jack up the bike, so the wheels are off the ground. The rear axle should spin freely, with the transmission in neutral. If you want, drop the chain off, and spin it. There should be almost no resistance. Hit the brakes a few times, and try it a bunch of times. If they're still sticking, then the only things left to replace are the caliper, master cylinder, and the return spring. I know it's mostly common sense, but sometimes we just have brain farts. Hopefully, this helps.

i agree with you totally....its either your caliper is sticking or you ride your brakes. hell i didnt even know it was possiable to wear a pad out in 5 hours.

[92toyotaboy]

I'm preaty sure my cylinder is slightly sticking. Is there an overhaul kit I can buy? How much and where can i buy it?

[92toyotaboy]

I'm preaty sure my cylinder is slightly sticking. Is there an overhaul kit I can buy? How much and where can i buy it?

[92toyotaboy]

I'm preaty sure my cylinder is slightly sticking. Is there an overhaul kit I can buy? How much and where can i buy it?

 

???

[2001Stroker]

???

Here's a brand new caliper, loaded with new pads, new mounting bracket, new parking brake block off, and new banjo bolts and washers. I might buy one, just to have it around, for when mine goes.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-REAR-BR...79QQrefidZstore

[2001Stroker]

I'm preaty sure my cylinder is slightly sticking. Is there an overhaul kit I can buy? How much and where can i buy it?

Sorry, you said master cylinder. I looked for one on the internet, but I'm not going to spend all day on it. ModQuad has several that are polished billet aluminum, with billet cap. I'll be getting one of those shortly. Ebay has some stock ones, but they are all used. Just Google it.