still having jetting issues

[endofitall9]

alright guys I thought it was the airbox I had amde that wasn't letting it get enough air ...so I got a uni pod with outerwear and stuck on the carb and the pilot is still to big and its not letting it get enough air.

the airscrew is past 3 turns and it still isn't letting the motor get enough air its a 35mm keihin pwk with a #35 pilot any other suggestions I'm looking for a keihin 33mm pwk but if I can make this 35 work ill keep it mods are in my sig

 

Josh

[Snopczynski]

Was this the bike that ran like a dog till it hit the top end. Refresh my memory or post a link to the old thread so I can reread it.

[endofitall9]

No, I don't think I ever said anything about it not running good on top It will damn near rip you of through all the gears it runs fine now I just cant get it to quit loading and I'm at the very smallest pilot that i can get which is a #35 if I try to keep it cleaned out it will run just fine but if you have ever tuned one and have had it right on you can tell when something on the carb it wrong. right now the airscrew is 4 turns out and ever time i turned it a lil more out it would get better I know this is my problem so I either need to know if anyone out there makes a smaller pilot than a 35 or i need to get a 33mm.. or if there is anyway possible to make the slow circuit lean out besides adjusting the airscrew like the needle.ect.

[Snopczynski]

OK, set the float level to 11mm, the airscrew no longer adjust past 3 turns out. If it is loading up at idle, switching to a 33mm is not going to do anything unless somethin in your carb is worn out. Set the airscrew to 3 turns out and see how it does. It will run like dog crap until you take it out and get it warm, then it should be able to idle a few minutes and rev right up and take off ok. I would still like a link to the old thread so I can read it over again.

[endofitall9]

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...;hl=endofitall9

 

theres the link. I guess i did have probs up top at first!......sorry

 

Now I have no problems other than it loading up when your putting around or it sittin there. its just hesitant taking off.. but it runs good all over.. I've been to every builder around here and everyone around has told me to go with a 33mm because the slow circuilt is getting too much fuel with the 35. I took it in consideration because it sounds right smaller carb equals less fuel which mean it could possibly be adjusted out by the airscrew. Every one has looked at the carb also. you say adjust the float to 11mm I dont think I ever read or heard anything about the float letting the slow circuit get more air. keep it mind that im not running a box right now it is with the pod!

 

Josh

[endofitall9]

ok been doing somer readong and now i am questioning what size carb i have on there its says pwk then on the right side like on the lip of the bowl flange it says s65a2 been looking but cant find anything.........

[Snopczynski]

To find the size of the carb you just measure the inlet of it on the motor side. Everyone runs a pwk 35, if other guys are telling you its too big, they are smoking crack big time. I ran a 35mm pwk on my bike when it was just pipe, reeds, head and no port job. Again, if the problem is not adjusted out by tuning the carb, then there is something worn inside the carb thats not allowing for adjustment. Now, float level effects how the carb will run everywhere. If its not high enough it can starve the engine of gas on the top end, if its too high, it will cause fuel to run into the engine because of the extreme angle (7 degrees) that is required on the banshee with the 2 into 1 intake. The stock carbs sit at an angle of about 2-4 degrees depending on if you run reed spacers or not. You need to always setup the carb in order. Before even putting the carb on the float level needs to be adjusted. Next you jet the main, then the needle, then the low speed/idle circuit. If it hesitates on the bottom your lean, if it blubbers then your rich. Personally I have the jetting specs for 4 banshees with 2 into 1 intakes and pwk 35mm carbs. All specs range from stock motor to ported. I honestly think there should be no way you have any smaller of a pilot jet then a 38, thats the extreme smallest I think you should be having to run. needle should be a dek probably in the 2nd from the top clip position. Main jet should be about 180-185. Set the float level.

[endofitall9]

right now im at a 165 main 35 pilot needle dek clip on leanest setting airscrew 4 turns out....I'll check the float tomorrow.. I guess if that doesn't fix it I'm going to be looking for a carb so I can see if maybe this one just has something wornout........

 

Josh

[dajogejr]

Have you checked the motor for air leaks?

Checked all the ignition components? I'm thinking it may be electrical...NOT jetting.

[Snopczynski]

Did you get rid of that tiny airbox inlet yet? If not I would take the airbox out and put a pod filter on the carb then jet it and see how you can get it to run. If you get it to run right, then you know your choking the carb. If you still cant get it to run right I would look for a pwk 35 not a 33.

 

dajogejr, his bike runs fine when he has stock carbs on it. He made a airbox for it and the airbox tube to the carb is smaller than the carb inlet. I told him in his last thread to change it out or make it bigger, I just dont know if he has yet.

[dajogejr]

Did you get rid of that tiny airbox inlet yet? If not I would take the airbox out and put a pod filter on the carb then jet it and see how you can get it to run. If you get it to run right, then you know your choking the carb. If you still cant get it to run right I would look for a pwk 35 not a 33.

 

dajogejr, his bike runs fine when he has stock carbs on it. He made a airbox for it and the airbox tube to the carb is smaller than the carb inlet. I told him in his last thread to change it out or make it bigger, I just dont know if he has yet.

 

 

Ah....didn't catch any of that, Snop...gotcha!!!

[endofitall9]

alright guys I said I took the box off and put a pod on.. It's not electrical the stock carbs run perfect on there. and for the record the whole elctrical system is brandnew cdi, coil,stator and wiring harness because i bought the bracket that goes under the tank.. this is strictly a carb issue I've been at this along time but I just dont know why I cant get the slow circuit on this carb to lean out evrywhere else is spot on except for this one circuit. I took the carb apart and cleaned it adjusted the float and all I can see nothing wrong with it.

[dajogejr]

I think there is a little jet in the back of the bell on the carb...is this plugged or missing perhaps?

Does it have the correct air screw in it? Any chance an old piece of an air screw oring came apart inside there?

 

You''ve more than got your bases covered, it's gonna be something whacky...

[Snopczynski]

When you set your float level, you measured from the bowl mating surface to the seam on the floats at the end of the float, as the carb was tilted sideways and rolled around until the float arm it just touches the needle pintle right?

[endofitall9]

yeah thats right snop thats how the float level was set. as for the airscrew there is no oring its just the airscrew and spring. the carb is spotless. its just confused the hell outta me and the shitty thing is that noone around here rides a banshee in trails that has been built... so I have to buy a new 35mm to see if it will even run right and if it still doesnt than I'm out that money too.. It's rideable if it is kept clean out or you keep it in the band but as soon as you let off and putt it starts to load and you have to clean it out again.....now that I think about it would a 36mm airstryker possibly let me know if this 35mm is bad. so say I switched this carb to a 36mm airstryker and get it running right on that carb that should let me know if something is up on this carb? don't know how close they are but thought I'd ask I may be able to try out a 36mm to see if i can get it running right........