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Posted

my clutch started slipping pretty bad while riding today, so even though i just checked it before leaving to ride, i checked the oil again, and yep, it's a little milky looking. it's the 1st i've had the shee out for about 7-8 weeks. i've had the seal behind the impeller go bad on my kx once, causing the same thing. i'm assuming that's all it is, but are there any other places for coolant to leak in from? it's not overheating, or no power loss, so i don't think it's the head gasket. the clutch slipping was the only sign i noticed before checking the oil again. also, is running a few rounds of oil thru it enough to clean it up inside and drag out the water/coolant, or should it be ripped down and cleaned up?? thanks.

Posted
o-ring on the coolant tube that goes into the clutch cover could be leaking also

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thanks guys.

:cheers:

  • 3 months later...
Posted

update - ok, i've replaced the impeller, seal and bearing and it seemed to have solved the coolant in the oil problem. but my clutch is still slipping. banghead it was perfectly fine before the impeller seal blew. nothing else has been changed or mod'd. i did run regular motor oil in it at first, drained it and did it again to clean it out, then put the belray 80w back in it, and it still slips. is it possible that the clutch plates are coated with antifreeze or something?? i figured it would have cleared up by now. i had my perch off to grind off the e-brake shit and make it look better, but it's still adjusted the same as before. i didn't touch the clutch itself when i did the impeller swap. could the coolant in there have done some permanent damage to the clutch?? :confused: i like excuses to upgrade but didn't really want to get into that just yet if there's an easy fix.

Posted
update - ok, i've replaced the impeller, seal and bearing and it seemed to have solved the coolant in the oil problem.  but my clutch is still slipping. banghead it was perfectly fine before the impeller seal blew.  nothing else has been changed or mod'd.  i did run regular motor oil in it at first, drained it and did it again to clean it out, then put the belray 80w back in it, and it still slips.  is it possible that the clutch plates are coated with antifreeze or something??  i figured it would have cleared up by now.  i had my perch off to grind off the e-brake shit and make it look better, but it's still adjusted the same as before.  i didn't touch the clutch itself when i did the impeller swap.  could the coolant in there have done some permanent damage to the clutch?? :confused: i like excuses to upgrade but didn't really want to get into that just yet if there's an easy fix.

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I don't know for sure about on an atv, but on an automatic transmission for a car antifreeze attacks the glue that bonds the friction material to the clutch plate. Sounds like this is may be your problem. Hope that this helps.

Posted
I don't know for sure about on an atv, but on an <a  style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=23&k=automatic%20transmission" onmouseover="window.status='automatic transmission'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">automatic transmission</a> for a car antifreeze attacks the glue that bonds the friction material to the clutch plate. Sounds like this is may be your problem. Hope that this helps.

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a buddy of mine told me the same thing this afternoon. that's seems to be the concensus. i'm gonna rip it apart and as long as the basket and things are ok, i guess just a plate and spring kit should fix the problem. thanks elimn8u. :cheers: i was also told that the heavy duty springs make the clutch super hard to pull. i'm probably gonna go with the Tusk clutch kit. any comments on heavy duty springs or should i just get the regular ones?

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