gumby Posted November 11, 2003 Report Posted November 11, 2003 ok so i had a problem with the shee starting running on the right side then the left side would kick in and it ran fine. well last weekend i was going to go riding and it would start run off the right bank but the left never kicked in so i said screw it. took the carbs off thinking dirt or some other unwanted object could be blocking the flow off horsepower and fun, and lo and behold there was dirt (boy did that pss me off) anyway i decided to inspect the reeds and the cylinders seems how i still had good compression i wasnt worried then i saw the horror two pieces of piston skirt missing and the wall tore to hell (a tear rolled from my eye). so my query to yall is what is the max bore on the jug i can have done and what are the best pistons to use? and in the opinoin of the shee public what are the best reeds to go with cuase i got my eye set on a trinity 2into1 carb kit so i figure ill spend the cash and build a nice motor. Quote
boonman Posted November 11, 2003 Report Posted November 11, 2003 ok so i had a problem with the shee starting running on the right side then the left side would kick in and it ran fine. well last weekend i was going to go riding and it would start run off the right bank but the left never kicked in so i said screw it. took the carbs off thinking dirt or some other unwanted object could be blocking the flow off horsepower and fun, and lo and behold there was dirt (boy did that pss me off) anyway i decided to inspect the reeds and the cylinders seems how i still had good compression i wasnt worried then i saw the horror two pieces of piston skirt missing and the wall tore to hell (a tear rolled from my eye). so my query to yall is what is the max bore on the jug i can have done and what are the best pistons to use? and in the opinoin of the shee public what are the best reeds to go with cuase i got my eye set on a trinity 2into1 carb kit so i figure ill spend the cash and build a nice motor. Well, being that you cracked the skirt off, I would be prepared for the worst, Having to replace the crank. With that kind of debris, it could get down into the bearings, and do some funny stuff. And I would NOT go to the max bore. Is your bike on the stock bore? did you buy it new? I would get a Wiseco top end kit. I would pull the crank out, (which means splitting of the cases) and send it to TDR (Tony Doukas Racing) for a weld job, and to inspect it. And I would also get some of his reeds. Then I would port your stock reed cages, and send the cylinders off to be bored. Once they get back, I would send them off to be ported by the builder of your choice. Don't go any more than you have to on the bore size. Boring the bike out is not worth it for the minimal gains you will get in power. But, to answer your original question, .100" is the max on a stock cylinder. Quote
gumby Posted November 12, 2003 Author Report Posted November 12, 2003 thanks for info i did buy it used but the motor was new (i know this cuase i helped install and break it in) but i dont know on the bore seems it was built buy a shop out of cali not sure as to what one but somewhere out there. next why weld the crack (if it hasnt been already) what would that gain me? and if debris did get into the crank can it be cleaned and new bearings put in or is it cheaper and most likely easier to get a new one. i do know the cylinders have already been ported. im not to worried about splitting the case and any heavy engine work as the engines coming out becuase of frame is getting a new paint job. does it matter on the size of piece thats missing or is it the simple fact its missing cuase its no bigger than the size of half a dime (roughly) whats so great about his reeds and who is he? Quote
boonman Posted November 12, 2003 Report Posted November 12, 2003 It does somewhat matter the size, but more so the location. The skirt, if it breaks, will go into the lower end, where it will be pulverized and most often sucked into the bearings and wreak havoc. It is slightly cheaper to have your crank rebuilt, but most likely easier to get a new one if yours is suspect of being no good. Welding the crank pins, will gain you no performance. However, it will gain you a piece of mind that the crank will not seperate. I have seen, and heard of this numerous times. it is a known thing to happen to banshees. it can throw the crank out of phase, and then detonate the top end. you can go to www.tonydoukasracing.com to check him out. I like his reeds on stock cages. And he is a good builder who is experienced with banshees. You can inspect the crank yourself, and see if anything looks chewed up. any play up and down on a rod is bad. And excessive play side to side is bad as well. EDIT: It would be cheaper for you to just buy a new crank if yours is bad. I just checked current pricing, and he is at $400 for a rebuilt crank. you can get a new one off of ebay for $350 all day long... Quote
gumby Posted November 13, 2003 Author Report Posted November 13, 2003 ok then so its off to shopping at ebay if the crank is screwed and it was a small piece of the skirt but hey if its chewed up screw it gives me a good excuse to go for a stroker motor i thank you for all your help boonman Quote
boonman Posted November 13, 2003 Report Posted November 13, 2003 Did I hear 4mm?????? NICE!!!!! Quote
gumby Posted November 14, 2003 Author Report Posted November 14, 2003 well i figure if its screwed then i figure go bigger Quote
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