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ROLL DESIGN A-ARMS


wacko2000

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So I picked up a set of Roll design LT a-arms for my banshee, I would like to have them powdercoated- which involves removing the ball joints which leads to my question!!

 

I have no idea how to remove the ball joints, do they thread out or need to be pressed out????? The bottom is flat and has 4 notches as if a spanner wrench or socket would fit to thread them out, but I really don't have a clue hear

 

I'm very disappointed with roll design customer service - you would think with there 1350.00 price tag for some a-arms they would provide top notch customer service, I have called 4 times and still havent received a call back

Yesterday when I called, a women answered which she was of zero help, didn't have a clue

Told me the only person that could answer my question was the owner and he was on the road- are you fucking kidden me- company like roll design and no1 can answer my question

That's just bullshit- I highly doubt I'll be doing any business with them in the future

 

So can someone help me get these ball joints out- wanted to ship them today but that doesn't likely

 

Thanks joe

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they unscrew. that style of ball joint is a warrior style from 1987. i believe it was the only year they did that. to me it was a great idear.

 

i believe east coast has an aftermarket replacement balljoint available. you should be able to get the removal tool for them OR tap them out with a punch.. make SURE whoever powder's them fully masks off the threaded area. and also the socket cannot have a very thick powder on it either ( round part where the jount screws down through. ) if there is to thick of a powder the ball wont go in right and can cross thread..

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Thanks Cam, I finally found a pic on the Internet- showing that they thread out

I plan on making a tool or something tomorrow to get them out, and I do like the design as well

The ball joints are tight, don't need replacing yet

Good to know that east coast has them though!!

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Contrary to the image they portray, Roll Design is a VERY small company. I believe at their peak they only had 4 employees. The address on their website is merely an office inside of an office building. I don't know where their shop is, I couldn't find it. They are less than 15 minutes from me and I've never seen anyone in person. I do a lot of business with Roll, and it IS common that he's out of the shop, especially on Fridays. They do a lot of racer support, and when it's pretty much a 1 man show, it's difficult to be everywhere at the same time.

 

I had a similar issue regarding some Elka hard parts that I needed on a Friday. It wasn't worth it for me to deal with the mentally handicapped people at Elka, so I utilized Roll Design to get the parts I needed. He was out of the shop, but she did a good job getting a hold of him and get the part shipped out to me.

 

I'd call back on Monday and give em hell... and get the goddamn address of their shop for me... lol...

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http://www.hsdracing.com/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=275

 

There these a-arms except the tops arent heims they are ball joints..

I got it figured out, they unscrew.

Im gonna do some machining tomorrow and make a tool to pull them apart, Ill post some pictures afterwards.

The a-arms are badass for sure, but this ball joint shit had me twisted/aggravated today.

Joe

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I just picked up a set of roll arms for ky banshee as well.

I've been in the hunt for a ball joint removal tool, found one, but its really not listed anywhere so I have to make some phone calls tomorrow to see what's the scoop.

 

As for shock length, Roll themselves have told me twice (I double checked while I was on the phone with them) that for the banshee their arms are designed to work with a 16.75" shock, and she even checked the schematic on the arms to verify this. If you look at the roll website, and I called them, they actually only have offered two arms for the banshee, a long travel arm that is close to stock width for woods riding and that, and the longer one for everything else requiring more width.

 

I'm surprised that Duncan is saying they recommend a much longer shock for Roll arms.

 

The previous owner of my arms was running 17" elkas on his bike... I'll get some photos of that bike up tomorrow when I'm at my computer

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