Snopczynski Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Thanks for the advice Snopczynski... unfortunately, a little late, it's sitting on my workbench as I type. Guess I'll run it til it goes. I actually chose that one over the Trail Tech bc the TT was only rated to 150W whereas this one was rated to 200W. I sent Trail Tech an email a few weeks ago asking if they had an appropriate reg/rect for a 200W stator, and didn't get a peep back from them (note to vendors: why have an email if you don't intend to use it?). Battery.... I usually do fine with 6Ah on my RD350s - that seem about right to you? Btw Snopczynski, I was hoping you'd wander in to this forum since I believe you've written a lot on DC conversions in here. What'd you think of the wiring scheme - do the grounds look properly placed? Was there any particular reason why you didn't wan't to ground the the lighting circuit to the chassis? I would run the battery ground to the frame, and hook the reg/rec ground to the frame or battery. There is no need to isolate the ground circuit. What stator are you running that is 200w? I ran a stock stator with a floated ground and trail tech reg/rec on a 10ah batery and it was plenty of juice for the LED headlights, tail light, and underbody led pod lighting I ran. I just finished doing another one of these setups for a guy last monday on a banshee as well. We literally got about 3 days of riding at the dunes with that reg/rec we got off amazon before it quite working, and it ruined a battery due to a short in the reg/rec. We got a new battery and a trail tech unit, and it was good to go. Stator in all 3 bikes that I have done were stockers with floated grounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Where is the best place to get a high output stator? Wheat Wheat I got a Electrosport unit. Here is the link too it. I have very good luck with it. Better then a RS stator. http://www.electrosport.com/atvs/yamaha/yfz350-banshee-87-94.html?pt=stators WFO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Was there any particular reason why you didn't wan't to ground the the lighting circuit to the chassis? I would run the battery ground to the frame, and hook the reg/rec ground to the frame or battery. There is no need to isolate the ground circuit. What stator are you running that is 200w? I ran a stock stator with a floated ground and trail tech reg/rec on a 10ah batery and it was plenty of juice for the LED headlights, tail light, and underbody led pod lighting I ran. I just finished doing another one of these setups for a guy last monday on a banshee as well. We literally got about 3 days of riding at the dunes with that reg/rec we got off amazon before it quite working, and it ruined a battery due to a short in the reg/rec. We got a new battery and a trail tech unit, and it was good to go. Stator in all 3 bikes that I have done were stockers with floated grounds. Snopczynski I wired my system the same way as his wiring scheme. I talked to TrailTech & in the install sheet for there reg/rec it said not to connect the ground to chassis ground. Here is a copy of the PDF from trailtech below. But I did ground it to the chassis the first time & I got high RPM miss in the motor. Then I change it the lighting wiring back to the way trailtech said to do it & it is all good now no miss. I do not know why that would be but it did. Just my 2 cents. If you have any input on this please let me know. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted August 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Thanks for posting that wfobasheeboy, hadn't seen it. The reason I isolated the ground on the lighting side is bc my take is that since the ignition side is pumping AC and grounded to the frame, the frame would be the other side of the ignition circuit's AC phase - so a DC circuit grounded to an AC ground would functionally become "pulsed". Now, take this for what it's worth - if I really knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking for advice on the forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) Snopczynski I wired my system the same way as his wiring scheme. I talked to TrailTech & in the install sheet for there reg/rec it said not to connect the ground to chassis ground. Here is a copy of the PDF from trailtech below. But I did ground it to the chassis the first time & I got high RPM miss in the motor. Then I change it the lighting wiring back to the way trailtech said to do it & it is all good now no miss. I do not know why that would be but it did. Just my 2 cents. If you have any input on this please let me know. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf What size battery did you run? What brand stator were you using? Edited August 26, 2011 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) Thanks for posting that wfobasheeboy, hadn't seen it. The reason I isolated the ground on the lighting side is bc my take is that since the ignition side is pumping AC and grounded to the frame, the frame would be the other side of the ignition circuit's AC phase - so a DC circuit grounded to an AC ground would functionally become "pulsed". Now, take this for what it's worth - if I really knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking for advice on the forum. It doesn't matter, you can ground both systems to the same place (chassis). A YFZ450 or a RZ350 work the same way. Both have AC ignition and both have a DC Charging sytem that grounds each prospective circuit to the same place (the chassis). I have done 3 DC conversions with battery setups on Banshees and never had an issue with the bike not running right with both grounds on the chassis. Edited August 26, 2011 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Thanks for posting that wfobasheeboy, hadn't seen it. The reason I isolated the ground on the lighting side is bc my take is that since the ignition side is pumping AC and grounded to the frame, the frame would be the other side of the ignition circuit's AC phase - so a DC circuit grounded to an AC ground would functionally become "pulsed". Now, take this for what it's worth - if I really knew what I was talking about I wouldn't be asking for advice on the forum. Yes I think you hit the Nail on the head with AC & DC on the same ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 It doesn't matter, you can ground both systems to the same place (chassis). A YFZ450 or a RZ350 work the same way. Both have AC ignition and both have a DC Charging sytem that grounds each prospective circuit to the same place (the chassis). I have done 3 DC conversions with battery setups on Banshees and never had an issue with the bike not running right. That was what I was thinking the first time I did the DC conversion on my shee. But the bike ran like S@#$ then I change the grounds then the bike ran good again. Maybe CDI box or coil is breaking down & that is why it ran bad with the ground together.. every thing test good & new stator. Time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 What size battery did you run? What brand stator were you using? I am running the trailtech batter: 12V 3700 mAh NiMH Battery Also trailtech reg/rec http://www.trailtech.net/040-BATT3.7.html The stator that i am running is a Electrosports 250W http://www.electrosport.com/atvs/yamaha/yfz350-banshee-87-94/lighting-stator-yamaha-yfz350-banshee-87-94-high-output.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 a 3700mah? does it work well? i am doing the DC conversion soon and I have a 8ah SLA battery. i plan on going to a 10ah LFP battery in the future. Yes it work good. But would be better with 8ah or 10ah. I am just running HIDs & the tail light so the small battery works. If you were to add more you would have to go bigger on the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 (edited) I am running the trailtech batter: 12V 3700 mAh NiMH Battery Also trailtech reg/rec http://www.trailtech.net/040-BATT3.7.html The stator that i am running is a Electrosports 250W http://www.electrosport.com/atvs/yamaha/yfz350-banshee-87-94/lighting-stator-yamaha-yfz350-banshee-87-94-high-output.html If you run that battery then you hook it up the same way the diagram shows for proper voltage regulation. However, you can run the battery negative to ground. They isolate the reg/rec ground in and out, thats why they have the ground circuits isolated in that diagram. Realistically the tech guys at trail tech know what they have been told, but they dont know why they tell people to do certain things. The electrosport stator has one 100w circuit and the other is 150w from what I recall with the dual output setups on them. If thats the case, the trail tech reg/rec should work on either circuit when you do a dc conversion. Let me ask you guys this. When you went and isolated your ground circuits, do you just pull the negative wires out of the harness for the lights and add in a circuit? How did you go about isolating it to the battery circuit? Edited August 26, 2011 by Snopczynski Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wfobasheeboy Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 If you run that battery then you hook it up the same way the diagram shows for proper voltage regulation. However, you can run the battery negative to ground. They isolate the reg/rec ground in and out, thats why they have the ground circuits isolated in that diagram. Realistically the tech guys at trail tech know what they have been told, but they dont know why they tell people to do certain things. The electrosport stator has one 100w circuit and the other is 150w from what I recall with the dual output setups on them. If thats the case, the trail tech reg/rec should work on either circuit when you do a dc conversion. Let me ask you guys this. When you went and isolated your ground circuits, do you just pull the negative wires out of the harness for the lights and add in a circuit? How did you go about isolating it to the battery circuit? I just ran a new ground for all of the lights & zip tie the factory ground back out of the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckwheat Posted August 27, 2011 Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Wheat I got a Electrosport unit. Here is the link too it. I have very good luck with it. Better then a RS stator. http://www.electrosport.com/atvs/yamaha/yfz350-banshee-87-94.html?pt=stators WFO Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xander450 Posted August 27, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2011 Because I have to build a lighting subharness anyway, I don't see a benefit to a frame ground on the DC side... if it ought to work that way, I'll just keep the ground floated entirely on that side of the rectifier. Thanks again for everyone's input, very much appreciated! Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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