Jump to content

no spark


breaker

Recommended Posts

Hit a ditch??? you'll have to explain that after but anyways, are you still running your key? Try bypassing the key switch to rule that out, if that doesn't work open up your kill switch inside there is a tab that should be touching cant remember if its an open or closed circuit but if its way off bend it back. If neither of those work look inside your plug caps and make sure they aren't corroded and seat tight on the plugs. Could possibly be a burnt wire near the exhaust also. Oh i forgot to mention, you put a new stator in did you check out the pick up gap?? It should be about as thick as a credit card. Hope that helps

Tony

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hit a ditch??? you'll have to explain that after but anyways, are you still running your key? Try bypassing the key switch to rule that out, if that doesn't work open up your kill switch inside there is a tab that should be touching cant remember if its an open or closed circuit but if its way off bend it back. If neither of those work look inside your plug caps and make sure they aren't corroded and seat tight on the plugs. Could possibly be a burnt wire near the exhaust also. Oh i forgot to mention, you put a new stator in did you check out the pick up gap?? It should be about as thick as a credit card. Hope that helps

Tony

business card, not credit card. credit cards are way too thick, lol.....i use a spark plug box flap, though. chances are, you have a wiring problem somewhere in the front, either at the wire connections by the radiator, or, as mentioned, the key-switch. the wires can break off at the solder on the switch. easy fix if you're good with an iron. start by testing the whole circuit at the harness cdi connector. test black to frame, black to engine, and black to black coil wire. they should all zero out on the ohm meter. next, test the red/black wire to black. it should zero when the key is on, and read nothing with the key off. next, black/white to black. it should read nothing until you put the kill switch in off position. if you get continuity there, then first, check to make sure the tors control box is unplugged (little 3-wire box next to the coil) and test again. as mentioned, check for melting in the harness by the exhaust. the harness is supposed to be clipped to the side of the air box to prevent this, but it doesn't always get put back to a safe spot. if you haven't found anything yet, get to ohming the stator from the same connector. btw- how did you go about removing/installing the flywheel? tit you use the Yamaha puller? did you make sure the key was in square with the crank center, not the taper? and last dumb question- have you checked for spark with someone kickin it over for you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

business card, not credit card. credit cards are way too thick, lol.....i use a spark plug box flap, though. chances are, you have a wiring problem somewhere in the front, either at the wire connections by the radiator, or, as mentioned, the key-switch. the wires can break off at the solder on the switch. easy fix if you're good with an iron. start by testing the whole circuit at the harness cdi connector. test black to frame, black to engine, and black to black coil wire. they should all zero out on the ohm meter. next, test the red/black wire to black. it should zero when the key is on, and read nothing with the key off. next, black/white to black. it should read nothing until you put the kill switch in off position. if you get continuity there, then first, check to make sure the tors control box is unplugged (little 3-wire box next to the coil) and test again. as mentioned, check for melting in the harness by the exhaust. the harness is supposed to be clipped to the side of the air box to prevent this, but it doesn't always get put back to a safe spot. if you haven't found anything yet, get to ohming the stator from the same connector. btw- how did you go about removing/installing the flywheel? tit you use the Yamaha puller? did you make sure the key was in square with the crank center, not the taper? and last dumb question- have you checked for spark with someone kickin it over for you?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...