AdrenalineJunky Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 Do I have to remove the flywheel and stator or is there a plug in where all the wiring connects after it leaves the stator. Mine is covered in electrical tape so I can't see. Figured be easier to ask. Only thing from keeping me from getting motor out is the wires going through grommet to stator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted April 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 Yep that's what I needed. O.K. I just have to find the connections covered in tape. Thx. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wacko2000 Posted April 11, 2010 Report Share Posted April 11, 2010 This plug for the stator should be ran right along the side of the airbox. un tape all the wires there and you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted April 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Do I need to remove any other stuff off the motor to get it out as far as weight or room and being able to lift it out? Looks like taking it out left side is easiest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Driggs Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Do I need to remove any other stuff off the motor to get it out as far as weight or room and being able to lift it out? Looks like taking it out left side is easiest? I leave everything on mine (except the plugs so I don't break them off if I hit them on the frame) including the top end when I take mine out. It's not that heavy. I like removing everything with it on the work bench then put it all back together and bolt it in. I think the Clymers says left side. Don't think it matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doddy Posted April 12, 2010 Report Share Posted April 12, 2010 Just did this last week for the first time. It's super easy. Just pull the pipes off, unplug the wiring, unhook the clutch cable, pull the plugs, take the carb tops off, pope out like four bolts that hold the biatch to the frame, and slide it out. I found that I had to take the stator cover off (along with the shifter and left side peg) in order to slide the chain off the front sprocket. Be careful when doing this if you have the stock philips screws in it because they will strip if your not using an impacter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted April 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yep got it out, piece of cake. The screws were already stripped and they decided to put them back in lol. Had to use pliers to get the screws out. BUT I WONT be putting them back in like a dumbass. Now I have a question/concern. All I need is rings but...............I have never split any cases before or did any bottom end work and was wondering if I should split them and replace/check anything as far as seals? Anyway to know without splitting them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 13, 2010 Report Share Posted April 13, 2010 Yep got it out, piece of cake. The screws were already stripped and they decided to put them back in lol. Had to use pliers to get the screws out. BUT I WONT be putting them back in like a dumbass. Now I have a question/concern. All I need is rings but...............I have never split any cases before or did any bottom end work and was wondering if I should split them and replace/check anything as far as seals? Anyway to know without splitting them? How old is the bike/motor? Do you know the history of it? How has it been taken care of? If all you are doing is the topend, you could have left the motor in the frame as long as there is no damaged parts that have gotten in the bottom end. If you don;t know the history of the bike, I would do a complete teardown and inspect everything, it pays off in the long run as the bike will be more reliable in the long run. Remember not to half ass anything as it will bite you later. You can spend hundreds of dollars trying to save a couple of bucks. Pay close attention to the crankshaft clearances and runout, if you don't know what you are looking at send it to a rebuilder. Also look at the clutch basket, kick idler gear, the shift shaft. If you don't already have these items, I would think about putting them in now: modded shift star, modded shift shaft, billet water pump impeller, billet clutch basket, pancake bearing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdrenalineJunky Posted April 14, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2010 Yeah I was just going to do a topend job on it but I keep coming across stuff that makes me wonder about things. I do not know the history of it but it has several mods done to it. Some i'm not sure as if they are right. 18cc domes and +8 timing for instance. As I pulled it apart I just kept going lol..... gonna paint the frame and go through the whole bike replacing bearings seals as needed. Yah I have OCD somewhat. I just finished doing alot of reading of my Clymer manual about the crankshaft and splitting cases. Didn't see anything that scared me. I'm pretty handy but not a full blown mechanic. I figure i'll split it apart and clean it up real good and do the checks that need to be done. Really only thing I need is a dial indicator to check runout and endplay. I'll replace the seals and if bearings seem fine, leave them be. Seems the main thing is having a clean area and keeping everything in order and labeled for a first timer. Any tips would be appreciated!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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