superfastyfz450driver Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 hi guys here's a question for you, with my banshee i am building for this up coming race season i am installing a right front wheel brake shut off solenoid, it is electrically operated, now it would be very simple to just use a small battery and operate the solenoid that way, or i was also wondering because it says to use a 5 amp fuse that maybe since i am not using any of the light i can use the power the stator would be suppling to operate the solenoid, and in that fashion i can run the solenoid via the handle bar mounted head light swithc and no one would even know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 10, 2009 Report Share Posted October 10, 2009 the stator has enough juice, and conventional relays and solenoids accept both a/c and d/c, unless it's multi-directional via polarity. basically, standard on-off works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) Really not sure of the question but yes, the stator can support your valve without problem. I would not worry about the back voltage on this setup either. You will certainly want to select a normal open valve so if something goes south, you will have that brake. Your normal selections will be 12VDC, 24VDC, and 120VAC. I would probably select the 12VDC even though the stator could run a 24VDC unit and would need 1/2 the amperage. Due to the DC requirement, I personally would run a bridge rectifier. you do not need a ground, you need a neg reference and that is provided by the rectifier outputs. Do not use AC on a DC solenoid or vise versa. Inductance plays a role in how the coil is designed. You could certainly sweet talk one with the other voltage but not a beginner setup. You will be able to find a rectifier at radio shack for your needs. I really have no idea why you are killing the FR brake but in flattrack, I would use a proportion valve to tune things a bit so she falls in the corner a little easier. B Edited October 11, 2009 by blowit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 if all it is, is a coil pulling a metal shaft in, then it doesn't matter the type of current. it would only matter if it's a directional winding. that's why when they do label them, most say 12/24v ac/dc. good piont, though about the brake. all we do @ the track is pinch the line, but i'm sure ou could just find a plug or new fitting where the line splits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 (edited) if all it is, is a coil pulling a metal shaft in, then it doesn't matter the type of current. it would only matter if it's a directional winding. that's why when they do label them, most say 12/24v ac/dc. good piont, though about the brake. all we do @ the track is pinch the line, but i'm sure ou could just find a plug or new fitting where the line splits. AC/DC coils will usually use an internal rectifier to operate as DC. That is certainly an option but narrows the options a bit. No, AC and DC are different in an inductor coil application. Reasons have to do with the inductance of the AC current. Measuring the resistance of an AC and DC coil will return different values. In short, an AC coil will have a lower resistance and if operated with DC, will have a much reduced service life. If a DC coil is operated with AC, it may not operate correctly or flutter from the frequency oscillation. Remember that application voltage is typically estimated with RMS values but the full sine wave will arrive at the coil. B Edited October 11, 2009 by blowit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blowit Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Just another thought. I think the 24VAC solenoid might be the way to go. It would eliminate the need for the rectifier circuit so you would only need a 24VAC regulator. This would keep voltage drop to a minimum. Keep in mind that this voltage will not be seen at idle if that will be a concern. If you need idle performance, you will want to add a battery and DC circuit for consistent performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superfastyfz450driver Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 the reason for the electric solenoid is its very easy to hide under the plastics and no one will know about it, the valve i am looking to get is from wilwood , the valve is alwasy open and requires current being sent to it to shut down the right from brake, also using the head light system to activate it makes it totally hidden, also, using only the front left brake you can feather the brake lever to control your turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
racer Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 So you're after an electronic cutting break? Sweet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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