SLORYDER Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 (edited) I am doing some minor port work and opened up the intake mainly by narrowing the intake bridge..Hopefully I didn't go too narrow, as I wasn't aware that breakage can be a problem... I didnt change the timing much, maybe raised the intake roof 1 mm, and also lowered the boost port floor a mm or two (ok, right)? Another question; how do my corner radiuses look (do I need to open them up any) Also What bit do people use to miter the bevels inside the bore, what angle do they have to be and how close do I have to get to the exact angle? And I just have to miter the edges parallel to the piston rings, right. One more question, after I finish all the port work and miters, and I hone the bore, do I need to re-ring or can I use the old rings if they meet the end gap specs after the hone? Please let me know if I left anything out with the porting/ cleanup process. Thanks Edited May 4, 2009 by SLORYDER Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Can you make the picture any bigger and possibly a little lighter? But from what I can see so far, it does look pretty narrow. As far as the chamfer on the ports, I used a small file to work them. I don't know that it is as critical on the intake side to wrap the chamfer down on the edges running perpendicular to the rings, due to the bridge keeping the ring from flexing into the port as bad. That being said, I did chamfer mine a little still, just to be safe. Quote
SLORYDER Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Posted May 4, 2009 Chamfer....there's the magic word No I don't have any more pics right now... Did I change anything by lowering the boost or raising the intake? Like I said it is 2mm at the most that I lowered the boost or raised the intake Quote
2003LimitedBanshee Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Chamfer....there's the magic word No I don't have any more pics right now... Did I change anything by lowering the boost or raising the intake? Like I said it is 2mm at the most that I lowered the boost or raised the intake Both of those changes affecting your port timing, in both cases giving you a longer duration. Did you actually lower the boost port opening, i.e. grind on the sleeve, or did you just open up the runner leading up to the port opening? I don't think you've done anything that should hurt the performance in any way, but keep in mind, you're only working with 54mm of stroke, so small changes translate into much larger degrees of crank rotation changes. Quote
SLORYDER Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Posted May 4, 2009 No I grinded the sleeve... Raised the exhaust 1.5mm and widened it abut 2mm total. Not a lot of grinding had to be done, however, because the sleeve wasn't matched up to the cylinder that well. Basically in the exhaust by the time I beveled the sleeve to be even with the cylinder and made a straight run into the bore, I had trimmed the sleeve (raised the exhaust port roof) about 1mm, w/o even touching the aluminum.Same with widening it. Question; Hwen you raise the transfers, you keep the roof flat right, as in the port does not open up from the OD of the sleeve to the ID of the bore, right? Quote
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