dajogejr Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 You can get a good stock crank, trued and welded with a maxload on the PTO side for around 275...every bit if not better than a wiseco. A good stock crank is 100 to 150. A good true and weld is 75ish, give or take. I think that maxload is 40ish... A good crank welder will remove the bearings to weld the pins, not just bird shit weld on top and not take the bearing off...so there should be no extra labor to press that OEM bearing off and put a maxload on if you're getting it trued and welded at the same time. Get a good, used crank out of a running bike...start there. NYUK probably has a few...and he don't sell junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_R_23 Posted February 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 (edited) I will look into the stock crank more, and send NYUK a pm to see if he has one. I tried talking to the guy I usually have do my cranks to see what it would cost, but he wont be back until later today. I will definately get the PTO side bearing, Ive had experience with those going out on Polaris XLT engines. Since he would be pulling the bearings off anyway, would it be better if I replaced the other ones also? Edit: Looking at a parts fiche it appears that theres only 1 bearing on each end of the crank, and none in the middle, is this correct?? If so that would be awesome, I thought there was a bearing in the middle that could go out and require splitting the crank and cost a lot more. I will probably stick with a stock crank then if this is the case. -Nick Edited February 4, 2009 by Nick_R_23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 I use an OEM on my 10 mil...no issues, flywheel side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 Just an FYI...Snop.Wiseco used to make the hot rods crank...they don't any more. Hot rods still supplies the rods though. All these forged cranks come from the same place. The factory welds on the wiseco AND Hot rods cranks are garbage. The first thing I'd do is have a shop weld it right. Its been the other way for us. Dave my motor guy told me hot rods split apart from wiseco, and they are not made in the same places anymore. All these cheaper, easier to get, unwelded wiseco cranks have been seperating. I have personally seen one do it, and heard about two others. The wiseco cranks have different length rods on them than the hot rods cranks. We had to fly cut the bases of my cousins cylinders to bring his squish and exhaust port down when we took the grenaded hot rods 4mm 115L out. We put in a 4mm long rod wiseco crank to replace it a few months ago, and now it seperated and is getting replaced (welded this time). That old hot rods crank he had went for 4 years before coming apart. I brought up the long rod crank over the stock length rod cranks because he mentioned he wanted longevity. I would buy a hot rods crank over a wiseco crank any day. If you put in a stroker crank, have the cylinder ports dropped to match it. Its not worth pulling apart again just to have that done. Dan Wade at Patriot Racing will do a 4mm stroker clean up port for $250.00! He would probably just do the port drop for the stroker even cheaper. Cut stroker domes for coolheads are about $100.00 through Dan, and they dont look ugly like the ghetto base spacer plates. Not to mention coolheads are way cool looking, they work great, and they are easier to deal with on a rebuild. If you ever blow up the motor and grenade a hole, you dont have to have the hole head redone (rechambered) or replaced, you can just buy one new dome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 I get my domes from Dan.... I got 5 sets done, sitting on his shelf, he's waiting on me for payment... One of those sets are mine as a backup since I'm gonna bottle feed my motor sometime this year. I'm pretty sure that Wiseco Cranks and the Hot Rods cranks...as well as the crankworks and Vitos all come from the same manufacturer... Any crank you buy, wiseco, Vitos, Hot Rods, etc., should be welded, even if they came from the manufacturer welded. JT had his 4 mil split and it was welded from Wiseco. When I had my 4 mil from FAST, I asked him to reweld the crank...never gave me an issue. SoCalinIt had it after me, no issues that I know of. I would expect the unwelded cranks to separate...I'd never run an unwelded one...even in a trail bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_R_23 Posted February 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 I think I am going to get this crank here, its low hours and came from a fairly new year. I will have it trued, welded, and probably new bearings to be safe. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=160313452518 -Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 I get my domes from Dan....I got 5 sets done, sitting on his shelf, he's waiting on me for payment... One of those sets are mine as a backup since I'm gonna bottle feed my motor sometime this year. I'm pretty sure that Wiseco Cranks and the Hot Rods cranks...as well as the crankworks and Vitos all come from the same manufacturer... Any crank you buy, wiseco, Vitos, Hot Rods, etc., should be welded, even if they came from the manufacturer welded. JT had his 4 mil split and it was welded from Wiseco. When I had my 4 mil from FAST, I asked him to reweld the crank...never gave me an issue. SoCalinIt had it after me, no issues that I know of. I would expect the unwelded cranks to separate...I'd never run an unwelded one...even in a trail bike. Daj, dan has a box with about 20 machined 4 mill domes in it. It looks like a little treasure chest. The wiseco cranks have different shorter length rods on them by about .025" center to center. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 LOL...mine are the same. 68 bore cub alky domes. Zero deck height... I just like the way his run in my bike...and so do a few other guys...lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snopczynski Posted February 4, 2009 Report Share Posted February 4, 2009 They are actually made on a CNC near our houses. Very precise, everyone is cut the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_R_23 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Well I brought the engine inside and started tearing it down. I couldnt believe what I saw. If I could find the guy who 'rebuilt' this motor I would rip his nuts off. The whole thing was really half assed together, no gaskets at all, just 100% silicone. Not only that, there was silicone over a different kind of silicone in some places. The center crank bearings had a bunch of it in them, no wonder that crank gave out. They also didnt bother lining up the bearing pins, just stucked the crank in and crammed it together. The whole bottom case was lined with sludge. And more silicone. Almost half the case screws had stripped heads and every single one required an impact driver to remove them. (Why Yamaha used screws as case bolts is beyond me....Im replacing every one of those with a REAL bolt). And suprisingly enough, each and every screw also had silicone where it threaded in. I mustve spent over an hour with a tap cleaning out all those threads. When I was cleaning the cylinders I also found that they put silver paint on the head gasket surface...WTF?? The clutch turned out to be shot as well, the basket is grooved badly and if you grab the basket and gear its rivited to and twist, the basket rotates over 1/4" side to side on the gear. Little worn out, you think?? The rest of the clutch components look to be ok though, however I might end up replacing the fibers and steels anyway if they turn out to be too thin. On the plus side, everything else in the motor was in good shape, and the cases cleaned up very well. I already have the tranny installed, so I pretty much need to drop in a crank, and the bottom end can go together. On the clutch basket issue, what would be a good replacement one? I take it the stock ones arent all that great?? Bottom case half with tranny installed and oiled. Other case and top end Oh I almost forgot, I think this is one of the major reasons this engine went. At first I thought the shaft was bent, but I measured it and its straight. I think they put the bearing in and it wasnt perfectly straight. The impeller was rubbing on the case pretty good, Id imagine that would slow down the flow of coolant a good bit. The bearing is shot anyway so it and the seal will both be replaced. And would you look at that, more silicone!! -Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted February 5, 2009 Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Nick... It may just be me, but those look pretty clean. For the case halves, top to bottom, there is no gasket. People use a semi-drying liquid gasket like Yamabond 4 (or it's threebond equivalent) EVERYONE uses that. If he only used silicone for the water pump, no biggie. I use a thin layer of silicone RTV on each side of just about every gasket I put on my bike, especially base gasket and intakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_R_23 Posted February 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2009 Yeah, I know theres no gasket in the cases. They didnt use the case sealant though, the entire thing was RTV silicone. And not a good job either, it was overflowing everywhere, the crank bearings were full of it and so was pretty much everthing else. I think I mustve scraped 2 or 3 tubes of it off!! :yelrotflmao: The cases are clean because I just got back from cleaning them off for 2 hours with the parts washer. This thing was a mess when I first split the cases. -Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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