JEFF C Posted January 11, 2009 Report Posted January 11, 2009 just tested my stator with my new muiltmeter and it said 0.8 can this be rite or did i read it wrong,what should it read,i think i had it on the right setting Quote
jasons Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) just tested my stator with my new muiltmeter and it said 0.8 can this be rite or did i read it wrong,what should it read,i think i had it on the right setting make sure that the your multimeter is on the upside down u setting when testing it. it should read between 13.7-20.5 anything less than 13.7 the stator is shot and more than 20.5 its shot. and also make sure you are using the red and green wires when testing the stator. which wires did you use. Edited January 12, 2009 by jasons Quote
JEFF C Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Posted January 12, 2009 i used the single yellow and the single black wire that leads to the stator make sure that the your multimeter is on the upside down u setting when testing it. it should read between 13.7-20.5 anything less than 13.7 the stator is shot and more than 20.5 its shot. and also make sure you are using the red and green wires when testing the stator. which wires did you use. Quote
jasons Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 (edited) i used the single yellow and the single black wire that leads to the stator thats is for the lighting coil on the stator. that should read between 0.26- 0.38. there are 4 more wires going into the stato. find the red and green one that is the ones you want to test. to test the pick up coil find the red & white wire and the green & white wire. its the connecter right by the single black and yellow wire you tested Edited January 12, 2009 by jasons Quote
blowit Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Always test a meter first by putting the two leads together to ensure it zeros. If not, you will need to add that value to your tested value. I would bet your lighting side is fine. Test values can be slightly out of specified range and still work fine. Brandon Quote
Snopczynski Posted January 12, 2009 Report Posted January 12, 2009 Is the problem no lights, or no spark? Quote
JEFF C Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Posted January 13, 2009 no spark Is the problem no lights, or no spark? Quote
Snopczynski Posted January 13, 2009 Report Posted January 13, 2009 yellow is the lighting wire for the coil. The black is the harness ground wire. You need to be testing the wires running to the white plug. Your gonna need to check a manual or get the proper probing info. Quote
jasons Posted January 14, 2009 Report Posted January 14, 2009 yellow is the lighting wire for the coil. The black is the harness ground wire. You need to be testing the wires running to the white plug. Your gonna need to check a manual or get the proper probing info. if you read my abover post i wrote down all what needs to be tested and what color the wires are. its also in the banshee electrical FAQ. Quote
JEFF C Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Posted January 15, 2009 just retested RED & GREEN tested at 16.2 RED\WHITE & GREEN\ WHITE tested at 100.9 still no spark!!!! maybe CDI how would i test the CDI if you read my abover post i wrote down all what needs to be tested and what color the wires are. its also in the banshee electrical FAQ. Quote
jasons Posted January 15, 2009 Report Posted January 15, 2009 just retested RED & GREEN tested at 16.2 RED\WHITE & GREEN\ WHITE tested at 100.9 still no spark!!!! maybe CDI how would i test the CDI ok lets test the coil so we can rule that out. there is no way to test the cdi unless you get a known working one. i would try the coil first. if your coil is bad i have an extra one for you. 15 bucks plus the ride Unplug the orange and black wires from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting bolts. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-" terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between 0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot, you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one. Quote
Snopczynski Posted January 15, 2009 Report Posted January 15, 2009 just retested RED & GREEN tested at 16.2 RED\WHITE & GREEN\ WHITE tested at 100.9 still no spark!!!! maybe CDI how would i test the CDI Is that within spec? Quote
jasons Posted January 15, 2009 Report Posted January 15, 2009 (edited) Is that within spec? yes that is within specs. also if you have your flywheel off you can shake it and see if it rattles. if it rattles the flywheel is shot and will cause a no spark issue as well because the magnet is broke. make sure your pick up gap is set right. do the above in my other post about the coil and go from there and let us know. oh i almost forgot . did you change your plugs just see if that was it. just trying to rule stuff out also might wanna make sure your kill switch is on. you can test that as well. to test the kill switch test for continuity between the black ground wire and the white & black wire, when the switch is Edited January 15, 2009 by jasons Quote
JEFF C Posted January 15, 2009 Author Report Posted January 15, 2009 thank for all the help,will test coil in the after work Thursday,will get back to you than thanks jeff yes that is within specs. also if you have your flywheel off you can shake it and see if it rattles. if it rattles the flywheel is shot and will cause a no spark issue as well because the magnet is broke. make sure your pick up gap is set right. do the above in my other post about the coil and go from there and let us know. oh i almost forgot . did you change your plugs just see if that was it. just trying to rule stuff out also might wanna make sure your kill switch is on. you can test that as well. to test the kill switch test for continuity between the black ground wire and the white & black wire, when the switch is Quote
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