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Posted

100% possible, done all the time...and more reliable.

You just need what's called racer's choice pistons...or 795 series.

 

They call it a long rod motor... It does NOT increase displacement, it changed the rod angle so the crank isn't trying to push the piston through the cylinder wall.

Posted

Yeah its possibal, but by the time you buy the rods pay shipping both ways and pay to have them put on and trued and welded, you could probably buy a new 4mill stroker crank.

Posted

Not to mention the added cost of pistons....

 

But if someone had one for sale very cheap....viable option.

 

In my opinion, it is more important to have the 115mm rod on stroker cranks than a stock stroke.

Posted
Not to mention the added cost of pistons....

 

But if someone had one for sale very cheap....viable option.

 

In my opinion, it is more important to have the 115mm rod on stroker cranks than a stock stroke.

 

 

I agree :thumbsup: , The stroker would make a more noticable differance

Posted
what if i get the 4mm rod and get the domes cut?

 

Ok...there are two different scenarios... and forgive me if I'm stating the obvious.

 

A stroked crank vs. a long rod are two totally separate things.

 

A long rod...is...well, a longer than stock 110mm rod. A stroker crank actually moves the big pin or lower end rod journal out from the center, creating a longer travel from BDC to TDC.

 

If you're trying to make a long rod motor into a fake stroker it won't work. The piston isn't traveling any further BDC to TDC...that's what a stroker crank is for. The long rod lessens the angle/stress on the crank.

A stroker crank actually moves the piston up and down further.

 

So...if what you mean is a 4mm stroker crank using a cut head...absolutely. You can do this one of three ways on a stock cylinder.

Cut the stock head for the increased 2mm at TDC (2 at TDC and 2 at BDC is a 4mm stroke crank)

Get an aftermarket head with domes cut for a stroker

Get a spacer plate.

 

With any of those three options, the cylinder should be ported to accomodate the longer stroke. You're wasting money IMO without getting the porting changed. The spacer plate is the quick and cheap way...I'm not a fan of it because it's one more place to leak, as well as it lets someone know you're running a stroker crank.

 

When you use a long rod, stock or increased stroke crank, you run a piston with the wrist pin closer to the top of the piston....

 

Hope this makes sense, if not...I'll try to explain better.

Posted

i understand. thanks im going to oreder up the 4mm rods and build a stroker cause i want more POWER!!! ahah its such an addiction :biggrin: so pretty mucj its 60 per rod and 175 to get them put in and welded i cant wait!!!

Posted

^^you mean your gonna order the 4mm stroker crank or the plus 5mm rods? cuz the rods arent gonna give you any more power. thanks dajoge for that description btw

Posted
i understand. thanks im going to oreder up the 4mm rods and build a stroker cause i want more POWER!!! ahah its such an addiction :biggrin: so pretty mucj its 60 per rod and 175 to get them put in and welded i cant wait!!!

 

 

Its not the rods gonna make the difference its the 4mill crank, 5mill rods. Just adding the rods is not a stroker, you have to get the 4mill stroke, 5mill rods.

Posted

yep you got it now. it wouldnt be worth much to you and pretty expensive when all said and done. you need stroker crank, spacer plate or cut heads, and port job when all said and done to have a true stroker that will perform up to what it should. lotsa $$$$

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