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Help, Im a little stumped, My just rebuilt bikes not running right


bode1

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Hello all. I just rebuilt my Banshee. .30 pistons and dune port by HJR. at the same time I had the TORS removed and switched to a NOSS cool head with 20cc domes instead of my Trinity 21cc. I have a K & N filter that I am now running with the lid off. I also had an adjustable timing plate set at 0* that I changed back to 4*. I am at sea level on high test pump gas. The bike started and seemed to run good. The next day, I tried to run it again and would not start. after about an hour i got it to start, and it seemed to be running intermitently on the right cylinder. i also noticed at that time while trying to get it to idle that the right cylinder had what appeared to be unburned gas coming out of the exhaust. Gave Kevin a call he sugested I set the gap in the stator, and check for air leaks. I used a business card as I had nothing else to set the gap with, and that seems OK now, and this is when I also changed the plate to +4*. The nest day, I wanted to see if it ran any better. It started right up, I messed with the idle and got it running enough to check for air leaks with brake cleaner ( is that right?). Now, the left cylinder is firing intermitently. I checked the spark and both looks good, It's been a fresh plugs everytime I've tried anything. The right plug looks brand new when I take it out. both cylinders have 160lbs when I test them. I haven't been able to get a good tester so I don't know how close that is. The smoke seens a little white coming out of the right pipe. HELP WTF

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Hello all. I just rebuilt my Banshee. .30 pistons and dune port by HJR. at the same time I had the TORS removed and switched to a NOSS cool head with 20cc domes instead of my Trinity 21cc. I have a K & N filter that I am now running with the lid off. I also had an adjustable timing plate set at 0* that I changed back to 4*. I am at sea level on high test pump gas. The bike started and seemed to run good. The next day, I tried to run it again and would not start. after about an hour i got it to start, and it seemed to be running intermitently on the right cylinder. i also noticed at that time while trying to get it to idle that the right cylinder had what appeared to be unburned gas coming out of the exhaust. Gave Kevin a call he sugested I set the gap in the stator, and check for air leaks. I used a business card as I had nothing else to set the gap with, and that seems OK now, and this is when I also changed the plate to +4*. The nest day, I wanted to see if it ran any better. It started right up, I messed with the idle and got it running enough to check for air leaks with brake cleaner ( is that right?). Now, the left cylinder is firing intermitently. I checked the spark and both looks good, It's been a fresh plugs everytime I've tried anything. The right plug looks brand new when I take it out. both cylinders have 160lbs when I test them. I haven't been able to get a good tester so I don't know how close that is. The smoke seens a little white coming out of the right pipe. HELP WTF

 

Nice talking with you. Now get that thing going.

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Kev, I pulled the left carb off. It looked good to me. 340 main and 25 pilot. They were both clear and the float needle was moving freely. I cleaned it out again and blew out the jets etc. The float height ? Is the tab or the bottom of the float supposed to be parallel with the carb body? They are close, I don't know if that is my problem. The only other thing I noticed that could have been a little off, was the cap seemed pretty loose when I took it off. Leaving for work in a few minutes, will try to mess with it again in the am.

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I said earlier that the right plug looked new unused and white smoke out right pipe. That was wrong it was the left, sorry about that. Also is the 25 pilot jet ok?

 

25 pilot is good. In the cold the air screws might have to be turned in a bit.

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I think I may have found my problem. The brass guide that keeps the slide in the proper position, backed out. I was putting the slide in correctly, however when the bike ran, it was spinning in the body of the carb, and running very poorly. I'm not sure if it was sticking out just enough to hold the slide in place until maybe the vibrations from the right side running made it spin free. Just odd, as the first day I ran it, it ran well. I also noticed that I was able to push the brass piece with my finger. I never even noticed that it moved before. Is that supposed to be tighter than that? I guess I'll just try it for now and see how it runs and if it runs like shit again, I'll have to lock it down with something. Any suggestions?

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I also backed the timing back to 0 degrees. I've been told that the 160lbs of compression is putting me right on the line of whether I need race gas or not. Comments on that anyone. Was thinking about picking some up and turning it back to +4. I don't ride enough that it would really cost that much more. Gas was over $4 2 months ago, and is down to $1,70 so I can just pretend that it is still up. Don't really know anything about race fuel, including the differences from one to the next and where to get it etc. Anyone know where I can buy it in the deep south of New Jersey, which one I would need, and best pricing?

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I also backed the timing back to 0 degrees. I've been told that the 160lbs of compression is putting me right on the line of whether I need race gas or not. Comments on that anyone. Was thinking about picking some up and turning it back to +4. I don't ride enough that it would really cost that much more. Gas was over $4 2 months ago, and is down to $1,70 so I can just pretend that it is still up. Don't really know anything about race fuel, including the differences from one to the next and where to get it etc. Anyone know where I can buy it in the deep south of New Jersey, which one I would need, and best pricing?

 

 

Yes, run the race gas and turn your timing back up or it will be a dog. It will take +6 with the race gas. VP c12 is good stuff. Run it 50/50. If the needle jet tube is coming out you have problems. Toss those carbs and get some real ones.

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LOL I just sent you a PM. I will look into the race gas. Pump gas is just convieniant for trail riding or if I run out I can get some off a buddy. We went to the Hatfield trails last year and never knew where we were gonna come out of the woods and with how much gas left. We were mixing it right in our tanks, I'm usually a little more anal about it with my ratio rite cup though. Kinda need to keep these carbs for now though. what do you think about locking the brass guide in with maybe JB weld or something for now? I could probally get another set of stockers off a buddy, but they would have the tors and we just removed them off mine.

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