Reed Cages...

[05.Banshee.SE]

So I purchased some "ported stock reed cages" which were all metal.

 

I took out MY "stock" cages, and they were metal (gold colored), but they either a) have rubber over the metal, or the metal ends at a point, and the cage is hard plastic/rubber.

 

I wanted to port what was my stock ones, because the ones I bought were kinda rough.

 

Were there different cages between years or something?

 

Oh yeah--the metal brackets that keeps the petals from snapping were different sizes (between my 05s cages, and the purchased ones.)

 

I can get pictures after lunch of the '05 stock plastic/rubber ones.

[05.Banshee.SE]

 

My phone died so I can't take a pic right now...but these look just like the 05s.

[05.Banshee.SE]

Deep under the rubber compound there is metal.

 

I'm going to mess around with these, see what I come up with.

 

 

If anyone knows anything about/has had experience porting reed cages, speak up now please.

[278]

Hey man, I dont really understand what your asking, but I think your asking if there is metal under the rubber? No there is no different cages between years. There is just metal under the rubber and the guy probably sanded the rubber off

[AKheathen]

i'm glad to hear you aking for pointers and doing researh before you get started. i too would like to get into porting cages, cus it's a nice place to start, and i don't have a lot of money to throw into trial jugs. reeds seem simple at first glance, but there are actually alot of aspects to consider. flow characteristics, geometry, and how it interacts and effects intake/ jetting ie. i'm sure there are alot of intelligent people on here that have made informed decisions while porting that should've worked great in theory, but didn't. so i'll ask the question again

 

please can anyone provide pointers on your experienc with porting reed cages

 

all i can advise is that it retains a good sealing suface, and simply bending the reatiners out is not a good idea. they have to retain a gradient curve from where they mount against the pedals. good luck :beer:

[278]

i'm glad to hear you aking for pointers and doing researh before you get started. i too would like to get into porting cages, cus it's a nice place to start, and i don't have a lot of money to throw into trial jugs. reeds seem simple at first glance, but there are actually alot of aspects to consider. flow characteristics, geometry, and how it interacts and effects intake/ jetting ie. i'm sure there are alot of intelligent people on here that have made informed decisions while porting that should've worked great in theory, but didn't. so i'll ask the question again

 

please can anyone provide pointers on your experienc with porting reed cages

 

all i can advise is that it retains a good sealing suface, and simply bending the reatiners out is not a good idea. they have to retain a gradient curve from where they mount against the pedals. good luck :beer:

I have been with 05.banshee.SE to help him out, because I did mine just to play around and start somewhere eventually I want to get into doing jugs and stuff, but that will come and take many years of practice. As far as doing cages it's pretty simple and nothing like doing jugs. Basically you want to just take material out right to the edge of the petals around each port. The top of the ports though you can turn into a square shape, they are rounded so make them square and bring them up to about 1cm. below the screw holes. This is how I have seen it done and basically just copied it. It came out good but you have to be careful, take your time, and watch everything. If you dont you can mess it up, it will take practice though so if you do your cages and they dont come out prefect its ok they will still work fine, throw them on and if you want later on down the road get another set of stock cages and do it again. Or you can buy a few sets practice on all and select the best 2 cages

[Chariot Performance]

reed cages

 

We make a great set of reed cages. In designing them we literally designed and machined 30 different cages from scratch. A few things we learned was the following. 1)the shape of the cutout is very important 2)the ange of the pedal is very important 3)the more of the center support you can take out the better 4)the angle of the intake face of the cage to the pedal is important 5)the angle on the tip of the cage is very important 6)the lenth of the tip surface which makes contact with the pedal is very important 7)the width of the opening at the top of the cage is very important 8)the ability to match up the intake to the cage is very important 9)smooth transitions in the intake is more important than in the cage itself

 

The single best modification you could do to your cage is move the threaded holes so that you can use blaster reeds on your cage. We didn't learn all this from porting stock cages only but mostly from machining different designed cages and testing them. You can't do to a stock cage what we designed into ours. Granted anything over a 4mm v force provides better performance but ours outdo v force up through a 4mm. If all you need is massive airflow then why in a DM motor for example do you use smaller reed cages for 4mm and under cylinders? My point is just like with porting opening sizes and angles etc make a huge difference in reed cages.

Edited November 25, 2008 by Chariot Performance

[AKheathen]

wow, you guys are great! how much for a set that'll be going into stock ports that are going to be trail or mx ported later? i still wanna run through some trial cages to see how i stack up, but imo someone willin to step up and divulge so much is definately in it for more than makin a quick buck off a bolt-on :beer: also, wondrin what for an older blaster?

 

sorry if i hyjacked your thread, 05

[05.Banshee.SE]

I have begun porting them and they are turning out great so far...thanks for the posts guys. I'll post pics ASAP...I'm just taking my time and messing around, they are looking sweet but we'll see.

[278]

Yeah man I want to see how yours come out, when you get done can you PM me a link to the pics. Good luck man and like I said just take your time and they should come out good. BTW 05, your toomeys' are looking like they are getting rusty. Use some Duplicolor high temp ceramic coating. Its the 1200 degree formula and you can get it at any auto parts store

[MikeNick]

reed cages

 

We make a great set of reed cages. In designing them we literally designed and machined 30 different cages from scratch. A few things we learned was the following. 1)the shape of the cutout is very important 2)the ange of the pedal is very important 3)the more of the center support you can take out the better 4)the angle of the intake face of the cage to the pedal is important 5)the angle on the tip of the cage is very important 6)the lenth of the tip surface which makes contact with the pedal is very important 7)the width of the opening at the top of the cage is very important 8)the ability to match up the intake to the cage is very important 9)smooth transitions in the intake is more important than in the cage itself

 

The single best modification you could do to your cage is move the threaded holes so that you can use blaster reeds on your cage. We didn't learn all this from porting stock cages only but mostly from machining different designed cages and testing them. You can't do to a stock cage what we designed into ours. Granted anything over a 4mm v force provides better performance but ours outdo v force up through a 4mm. If all you need is massive airflow then why in a DM motor for example do you use smaller reed cages for 4mm and under cylinders? My point is just like with porting opening sizes and angles etc make a huge difference in reed cages.

 

 

Nice lookin product Chariot Performance. i think I may be going to order a set of these from you since your timing plate I got was such a good piece.. :thumbsup:

[05.Banshee.SE]

Yeah man I want to see how yours come out, when you get done can you PM me a link to the pics. Good luck man and like I said just take your time and they should come out good. BTW 05, your toomeys' are looking like they are getting rusty. Use some Duplicolor high temp ceramic coating. Its the 1200 degree formula and you can get it at any auto parts store

 

Thanks.

 

Someone painted the pipes and I ran them a little bit and they turned like that...I think it was the paint he used. Either way I already stripped them down and was looking at 1500* hi temp black grill paint...should do the trick (or header paint.)